So zzp recommends the 2 step colder plugs for a 2.8 pulley which I have. What's everyone elses opinion on this?

 

autolite 3922 or tr6 for me, 2 ranges seems bit much for a 2.8 with proper supporting mods.

 

The best plugs for our cobalts that are modified are either the autolite 3922's or the ngk bkr7e's.

 

1-step colder plugs are all you will need for that setup.

 

You sure about that? My tuner says 2 step is the way to go. And also zzp recommends 2 step colder

 

Yes. I'm sure.

2 step colder plugs are way over kill on these cars. 1-step is perfect for a 2.8 pullied car trust me.

If you need more proof Area47 ran 1-step colder plugs with his 380whp TVS car.

 

I'm running 1 step colder with a 2.85" as reccomended by INTENSE
For the way I drive my car, I'm fine though. I'm only getting KR because it's winter and my IC pump is out. Still waiting on a new one from ZZP. First one they sent me was cracked, so I have to wait for the warranty exchange.

 

I'd go with whomever programed / tuned your PCM says...

 

lsj's that are on smaller pullies love colder plugs! 1 step or 2 doesnt matter but i just got these for my car and they should work wonders! make sure you gap ur plugs to .032 no matter which ones you get!!!!!!

NGK-3787
and they can be found here: NGK Spark Plugs 3787 - NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs - Overview - SummitRacing.com

make sure you put the quantity as 4 and not one lol

 

He will more than likely end up fouling the 2-step colder plugs with that setup. He really wont be making enough power to justify that cold of a plug. 1-step will put him in the perfect heat range.

The gap is a whole nother topic. You will need to find out which gap works best for your car. While 0.032" is one of the more common gaps for pullied balts (i actually run it) it may not be the best for someone elses setup. Remember you want the largest gap possible w/o spark blowout. My car loved 0.035" until I ditched the M62. I tried every gap from 0.035"-0.032" until I found the one that worked best for my setup.

 

this^^^

 

I be more worried bot getting off that zzp tune before stressn plugs, that tune is a limp noddle. Did it, got off it, felt the power it lacked.

 

yea no downing zzp or anything but they dont have the best tuning out for our cars right this moment...

 

You sir are incorrect. You will NOT get kr from your ic pump being out, especially in winter. You are getting KR because the shitty "intense" tune is running to much timing on the high octane table and has been known to blow motors back in the day. Most people on this site are smart enough not to use there tunes.

1 step colder plugs are just fine. Iridium plugs are not ideal for our application either. Every set of iridium plugs I have had ran like crap.

Run a gap of .035 to .040 depending on your pulley with autolite 3922 or ngk bkr7e's and you will be set.

 

None of the canned tunes from any of the companies out there are very good. Fuel trims are usually off, it's just guess work on the maf side, and they either run to much timing or not enough. But most of these kids don't know any better so yay for the companies!

 

"Back in the day" means ur outdated info needs to be revised. just sayn dont hate on me now lol Intense is under new management with revised tunes for they were very aggressive and people had no prob running the **** out of there cars and bc of the fuel setup the lsj has #4 would pop. There tunes have all be reworked with this in mind and I will not lie I have one and between my interceptor and wideband Im very impressed VERY! But atleast give john a chance and call him, he will talk to you for a hr and not try and sell you one thing.

 

hahahahaha this is true sir!

 

Perhaps I may be incorrect about the KR. But all summer, my IC pump was working fine, and my KR stayed at 0.0 all the time. The only time I even got it to move to even know that parameter was working, was if I suddenly stomped it, IE: 2nd Gear, 2K RPM (20mph) and it would jump to 2.0 right away, then jump back to 0.0 as I accelerated through 22mph, and it would stay at 0.0 all the way up to 70MPH / 7000 rpm pushing between 15-17 PSI of boost, with an AFR between 10 and 11. My IAT2s would seldom get more then 50 degrees hotter then outside temp, and if i was not running alot of boost, and just cruise driving, it would run about 20 degrees hotter then outside temp.
It was about 50. Tonight with a tempature of 54 degrees, without running boost, driving at 40mph / 2000 rpm (4th gear) about 15 inches vacume , my IAT2 was arround 120. Only reason I used their tune, is because the car came with their PCM when I baught it used. It has an INTENSE PCM, Lucas 42# Injectors, K&N Typhoon, and a 2.85" Pulley, and a Stock tune... (Thanks to a GM Dealership standard reflash for used cars before sale)

Even still, I seldom get KR. Sometimes I get up to 1.0 degrees of KR if I let the clutch out too fast and dont give it enough gas, or if I shift gears too soon. I have heard about Intense tunes this and that, and I have seen many "Blew up my engine" threads, with many people who had non-intense tunes... Maybe sometime I will have a problem, I doubt anytime soon though.

 

Well I don't have a zzp tune. I have Hp tuners with a custom tune

 

1 step colder still

 

Let me correct a few things. First off the majority of the knock you see when you are letting off the clutch is false knock. Most of the time anything from 0 to 1 is false knock on the interceptor when you are shifting. If you are accelerating and seeing it then yes, there is an issue. Clearly your i/c pump is out and you need to hit it. Your i/c pump being out can cause kr, the hotter the air is the easier it is to detonate but not when it's 50 degrees outside and you have 120 degree iat2's. Kr can come from spark plugs and improper tuning, to much heat, etc. Yes your "intense" tune is absolute sh*t and needs to be changed otherwise eventually you will have a problem. You are either running to much timing if you are seeing knock, running sub par gas, or not using the right plugs or have extreme temps. Soooo fix your car.

 

My new IC pump should be here monday....


Hopefully 2nd time is a charm, as the first one that I recieved, arrived
crached, from some one at the factory over-tightening a screw, so I sent
it back for a warranty exchange.
...

Also I believe you're correct about false knock. But false knock, even with my IC pump out,
is about 99% of all the kr I ever get. I think only twice have I ever got on the gas, and got
true KR. How is it I have too much timing? When I set my Interceptor for Ignition Advance
what are some good idle? and cruise numbers?
Thanks,

 

Idle and cruise numbers are not what you need to worry about. It's the wide open throttle timing numbers that matter. Also, running a 2.85 on 42lbers can be dangerous if the tune isn't spot on. If I had to guess you injectors are maxed because you said you hit 10s and 11s for your air to fuel ratio. If I were you, I would upgrade to 60lbers and if you wanted a little more power/tq drop pulleys. As far as your tune, I am not a big fan of canned tunes, and really am not a fan of intense. Check to see what your timing and air to fuel ratio is at wide open throttle and see if there is any knock and get back to me

 

I run 42 lb with 2.8 and my car runs amazing. About 275-280whp I'm putting down.

 

Neato!