YOU FOOL!!!!!

Do you not know what you have done!!!!!!!

Posting a number of a company that has no number is impossible.
In fact it's exactly like!

 

?????

 

you look at the fuse yet?

 

sounds like the guage might be bad. maybe during shipping? I have the dual setup and they are getting power straight from the obd port. the only problem is that I have to unplug and replug them back in to turn them on... somehow I messed up the power line so when I unplug the add a fuse that I used, it makes no difference

 

gauge fixed boys. just had 2 reset some **** that i didnt understand. thanks for the phone number. well i tested the performance mode and it said 14.3@103 and HP was 230. my mods are intake, cat-back, and a special tune by paul. how accurate does that sound?

 

I've seen mine tell me 284hp before and if that at crank then roughly 255 - 260 to the wheels for me but in that equation you would come out at 202 to 205 and if your stock that sounds about right. Did you make sure to put your altitude into the gauge so it reads right?

Great to see you got it working!

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed, sorry I didnt PM you earlier, I was stuck over at work.

Anyway, that 1/4 time is okay accurate. It does not account for wheel spin at all, so be aware that the time it shows will be lower than what you are actually running.

 

i still have to adjust it for my altitude

 

Actually it would register faster.
The interceptor looks at wheel rotation by what the ecm sensor is seeing. Thus is you have bigger tires and haven't tuned the car for those tires it would be off considerably.
If you get wheel spin the ecm doesn't know your spinning as it only sees a tire still rotating. Knowing the tire is x size it takes 1 rotation to cover x amount of inches. If it's x amount of inches in a 1/4 mile then x amount tire rotations equal a 1/4 mile. Under this assumption means If I e-brake and just burnout on the tires standing in place then once x amount of tire rotations it would tell me my 1/4 mile time. It only looks to see how long it took to get x amount of tire rotations. Thus if you wheel spin the reading will be faster than your actually getting.

 

Yea, exactly. Lol. It will show lower (faster) times that what you run. That is some nice details as to why though.

 

a suggestion to you have you taken out the little jumper cap off the back of the interceptor as the cobalts do not require this to be on and will cause the interceptor to act as you described. i would try that and see if it still exibit those symptoms. it would save you from having to unplug and plug them back in everytime you leave or get into your car.

oh and to the OP good job on getting it fixed.

 

awesome info guys. i'm just glad it worked next week on goes the aem then the 2.8, 60s, and getting wicked tuned!!! then hopefully my damn zzp stuff will be here

 

actually, when the red jumpers were out, they did nothing. But I have been reading about that add a fuse, and I guess I needed 2 fuses to use it. all I did was put the original fuse into the add a fuse. I will try using 2 fuses in the morning. what size should I use? its in the sunroof with a 15 amp already.

 

ok, so I have the exact same issue going on, and Todd recommended sending it back in, to the OP, what did you do to fix it?

For the record....I have an add a fuse in my wipers, since they are 10 amps

 

I find it funny that now one wants to tap power from the stock boost gauge so they run a wire all the way to the fuse box to power it from........the exact same source as the power to the boost gauge.

The wiper blades fuse also powers the boost gauge.
Just so you know.

 

I did initially attempt the boost wire, think I wanted to sit there and run that wire from the driver's side to the fuse panel if I didn't have to? The problem was, while hooked to the boost power wire, the gauge stayed on for well over 10 minutes after the key was pulled out of the ignition, and it kept my aftercooler pump running..

Don't ask how or why, I don't know. I even called someone from the site, who helped me figure out that the aftercooler pump was on....

I've been in and out on this thing before calling Todd. I'd sooner troubleshoot the issue myself, and save sending the thing in, but I've run out of options......

Just because it worked for you and others doesn't mean it works for every car in the model line dude, maybe I got the car that was wired at 3pm on a friday, who knows.

 

The reason it stayed on was because thier is a jumper behind the gauge. For us Cobalts you have to pull it out. That will fix the staying on issue.

 

actually staying away from using the boost gauge power wire is good for a few reason's first you don't have to worry about potentially frying anything or wrecking anything and second its alot easier to diagnose issues if you run a seperate power wire. also the interceptors are picky about what you use to fuse them from the ones i've installed i've found the mini make a fuse works the best. and always remove the jumper as the cobalts do not require this for proper operation.

and for everyone's information tapping into an existing fuse that is already in use for some reason is a bad way to go as those wiring systems are designed for those devices and no more, so you can and eventually will fry something due to overpowering the stock wires.

 

kritter u sir have a PM and dont send the gauge back yet!!!