papasmurf

Well, got out in the back yard with some tools and a determined mind to get my new header and downpipe put on the balt. With a LOOOOT of elbow grease, cursing, and SHEER determination..... its still not on.

So I left it for tomorrow. Be more daylight to work and see whats going on, and will give the liquid grease a bit more time go to work.

The bolts/nuts w/e they are that connect the header and d/p and seized up pretty good, as well as the rear o2 sensor. Sprayed on the liquid wrench so hopefully it will loosen the bolts up. Only got one bolt off the header and d/p connection and some of the actual header bolts. Just didnt have enough time and light to finish. So hopefully I can get this done tomorrow.

Wish me luck all!

XM15

Good luck. Seized bolts FTL.

papasmurf

haha.. yea, especially when im using hand tools that arent enhanced by air.

JimzSS

got a propane or Burnsomatic torch?
They are cheap and helpful, especialy with MAP gas , yellow can, in place of the blue propane.
the o2 is the trickiest. Heat up the bung and use your tool, 7/8" wrench or socket. If it starts to bind up while loosening, tighten in up some and keep heating.....
if you try to power past the tightness you WILL strip the o2 or the threads in the bung. Just some tips.

ilovecars

iTrader: (4)

ohhhhh that sucks!

go get some pb blaster from walmart
that **** will un do a 4in rusted bolt

XM15

I blew out my back by not using "enhanced" tools.

I think a compressor is next on my list.

D4u2s0t

just disconnect the sensor for the 02, and take it off with a wrench while the downpipe is off the car. MUCH easier that way.

for the siezed bolts, a breaker bar with extensions will do wonders.

zackss

i hate seized bolts too, can be a pain in the ass but just keep tryin
the more beer the easier the job lol

but remember to put the o2 sensor back in instead of getting pissed and thinking there's a terrible exhaust leak somewhere and start to unbolt everything

what header and dp did you go with?

papasmurf

I got the clear image header and downpipe (catless). Cant wait to get it all out and put the new stuff back in. I was tired as all hell yesterday since I had been awake almost 24 hours so, that coulda helped me or hurt me... either one. lol. I got the front sensor out pretty easily, but the rear one was in there pretty good. As well as 2 of the downpipe bolts. I'll see what happens later today though when I get out there.

D4u2s0t

when i had my 2.2 the downpipe bolts were pretty damn stuck, and nothing would get them out. what I finally did was sit the wrench on the bolts, and from the engine bay i stuck a sledgehammer down (upside down so the handle was on the wrench) and gave a good push. that took them right off.

Omnigear

iTrader: (4)

pb blaster wt4

papasmurf

Alright, well, got out there this morning and went back to work on it. Got everything done in short time. Except for the o2 sensor on the stock cat, which doesnt matter because it came off anyways with the cat.
Got the header and d/p off pretty easily after the liquid wrench set in over night. Got the new header and d/p in, checked all the bolts and such, let the jacks down and looked everything over once more. Got in the car, crunk it up and let it idle for a minute. Didnt hear any noticeable difference in the sound at all! I was thinking "hmmm.. thought it would sound different..." Well, I gave it some gas and thats when I heard the change. Sounds GREAT at idle and thru the normal gear runs to cruise. In hard acceleration its changed a lot. It sounds okay, but I think I am going to go back and change up the exhaust just a little to get the sound the way I want it.

Overall, seems like a good choice in the clear image auto setup and will follow up on this at a later date.

*gets into the modded cobalt line*