2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Official catch can/crank case vent system thread

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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:18 PM
  #26  
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From: Still fixing others mistakes.
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
Newp.... well, from storage to storage. FML
i'll bring a truck and trailer.
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:22 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Area47
i'll bring a truck and trailer.
I like where this is going.
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:27 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Area47
i'll bring a truck and trailer.
okay. tune fest while you are here...
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #29  
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From: Still fixing others mistakes.
works for me
i really need to stop modding my dd
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:51 PM
  #30  
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From: Port Perry
^^^troof. wntr btr2 has proven to be excellent, unmodfied 2.3 ecopoweer saab turbo aero combi thing.

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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:52 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Area47
works for me
i really need to stop modding my dd
no1 likes a quitter
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:55 PM
  #32  
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From: Still fixing others mistakes.
Originally Posted by Omnigear
no1 likes a quitter
i have far exceeded my goal with it. besides a 500hp truck is just fine for a dd.
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #33  
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I will probably need to do this with my new set up. Gives me a good idea's!
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 10:54 AM
  #34  
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DO Gut the cover, remove plastic baffles Drill and tap a 3/8 npt, use a large AN fitting to 3/8 npt, leave oil cap alone, done. More than enough under vaccum from turbo intake for any turbo setup.

DONT use the stock rear tube its the size of a coffee stirrer, drilling it is moot, you will see when you dig into your valve cover.











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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #35  
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well thats failure waiting to happen
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 11:39 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by c130aviator
DO Gut the cover, remove plastic baffles Drill and tap a 3/8 npt, use a large AN fitting to 3/8 npt, leave oil cap alone, done. More than enough under vaccum from turbo intake for any turbo setup.

DONT use the stock rear tube its the size of a coffee stirrer, drilling it is moot, you will see when you dig into your valve cover.











the metal plate was to keep from pulling oil out of the head and putting it into the cylnders the baffles help filter the oil vapor out so you dont burn that off
you just defeated a great working system for a stock or lightly modded engine for a highly modded engine all that was needed bigger line on it for a stronger vac signal
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
you just defeated a great working system all that was needed was a bigger line to the air intake
not so, the plastic melts if you try and powder coat the thing blocking any and all air from escaping from the crank case. Also the restrictive plastic baffles gum up as you see in the pics. How is this a great working system? They got rid of all this with the TC valve cover. Oil is sent up the side passages in the valve cover as you can see around the outside of the gasket and fired into the cams. The baffle is there to spread the oil yes but its just not necessary, there are tons of modified Honda's running this way, where do you think I got the idea.
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Area47
well thats failure waiting to happen
lol
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 12:10 PM
  #39  
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From: Still fixing others mistakes.
apparently you know more than the engineer's that created it, or the ones who know how to modify the valve cover for increased crank case pressures.

::bows::




















::facepalm::
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 12:16 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by c130aviator
not so, the plastic melts if you try and powder coat the thing blocking any and all air from escaping from the crank case. Also the restrictive plastic baffles gum up as you see in the pics. How is this a great working system? They got rid of all this with the TC valve cover. Oil is sent up the side passages in the valve cover as you can see around the outside of the gasket and fired into the cams. The baffle is there to spread the oil yes but its just not necessary, there are tons of modified Honda's running this way, where do you think I got the idea.
thats right a tc dosent have have that the sep plate or baffles and their system dosent work worth a dam look at their intake side of the engine the valves carbon up and that destroys the valve guides so it is safe to say their completle different pcv system dosent work so someone is trying to come up with a different setup that works and there has been plenty of people powder coat the valve cover with no ill effects on the baffles so that point dont fly home skillette and not to mention gm ran a stock valve cover with a -12 or -14 line on stock un modified valve cover and plugged the pcv port in the head on their 1400hp race engines

the only down fall to the stock lsj pcv system was on highly modded engines the vac line couldent carry the volume needed so all that was needed to do was to increase the line size and at that point plug the pcv hole in the head (you need 1 priority line not 2) and you now have a system that will handle what ever you throw at it and gm racing more then proved that
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 01:12 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Area47
apparently you know more than the engineer's that created it, or the ones who know how to modify the valve cover for increased crank case pressures.

::bows::

(deleted some of your return key strokes cause you waste space for a moot point)

::facepalm::
Typical. You seriously just used the most noob reason for not modifying something, very suprised with a post count like yours. You should know that is a novice anser to a fix for our cars. The engineers that built our cars also designed things that I am constatnly fixing. Our cars are on a crap chassis with an engine that has potential...

There are other forums besides cobaltss.net if you google "flame arrestor" or "baffle removal" concerning valve covers. There are way more people turbocharged on other platforms than the cobalt ss. Its like people on this board think they invented forced induction...

Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
thats right a tc dosent have have that the sep plate or baffles and their system dosent work worth a dam look at their intake side of the engine the valves carbon up and that destroys the valve guides so it is safe to say their completle different pcv system dosent work so someone is trying to come up with a different setup that works and there has been plenty of people powder coat the valve cover with no ill effects on the baffles so that point dont fly home skillette and not to mention gm ran a stock valve cover with a -12 or -14 line on stock un modified valve cover and plugged the pcv port in the head on their 1400hp race engines

the only down fall to the stock lsj pcv system was on highly modded engines the vac line couldent carry the volume needed so all that was needed to do was to increase the line size and at that point plug the pcv hole in the head (you need 1 priority line not 2) and you now have a system that will handle what ever you throw at it and gm racing more then proved that
Mrb knock that home skillet stuff off, you and I talk on the phone just about everyday and sometimes for hours about stuff like this. I know what you mean and my point is that there is a chance for melting your baffles when you powdercoat the VC in an oven, then with that coffee stirrer straw sized hole you have yourself no ventilation...

Funny my valve cover is stock and I am using a similar fitting when I get my sleeved block back from you. One way in and one running to my turbo intake to create vacuum on the catch can. Plugged my head pcv port as well. So the only difference is that I removed the baffles in my cover and added a catch can. So there is no need for baffles against oil escaping since you and everyone on here are adding catch cans.


Here are some of the others that take them off and leave them off.
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/removin...r-22re-164498/ removed gunk and dirt and left them off on harsh offroad conditions, hmmm
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt...lve-cover.html leave them completely off just use a catch can (sounds like stuff we do over here on css.net)
http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...s-removed.html baffles were in the way of th e comp cam rockers

You get the point.

Last edited by c130aviator; Dec 6, 2012 at 01:24 PM. Reason: added links for closemindeders
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 01:55 PM
  #42  
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it was called sarcasm. please learn it. it is used a lot.

the point has already been stated as to why the baffle is there. you more or less voided the whole purpose behind it. i do hope you enjoy the oily mess that will show up later on.

the people on ls1tech {that you used for a reference} ended up going the cheap route instead of getting the proper parts to do it. IE taller covers, or spacers for the covers. they also have an oil issue due to this.

however, in the end, your failure will happen as others who have been down this road before have state what will happen.

this is where i reserve the right to say "i told you so" for future use.
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #43  
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 02:09 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by c130aviator
Mrb knock that home skillet stuff.
hey was just joking with ya with the home skillett

area is right the people who got rid of the sep plate and baffles have had oil problems i know some ls guys that removed the baffels and spent alot of money to go back and fix things correctly) and did a half as job on correcting thier problems the parts were put in the cover for a reason and adding in an extra air/oil sep with a bigger line only makes a good system better and in the long run will keep providing kick ass performance and reliability

Last edited by mrbelvedere; Dec 6, 2012 at 02:20 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 02:33 PM
  #45  
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just an fyi for others. oil isn't the issue in the catch can, or the purpose behind the catch can. the can is there to collect the vapors and seperate the oil vapor from the air flow itself. in some other cases, it is now to catch the oil. the crankcase vapor does and will contain oil residue/oil traces in small amounts. over time this WILL accumulate in the can itself. hi. science at work. YaY
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 02:34 PM
  #46  
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whats to stop you from riveting the baffle and plastic inserts back in? wouldnt it then be better than stock without oil carryover issue
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 02:45 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
its a -10 bung welded over the crank case vent on the valve cover ran over to a moroso air/oil sep with 1/2 inlet/outlet and a -10 line over to the air intake its nothing elaborate i also pluged the pvc port in the head to keep oil vapor out of the intake manifold as for the hose i used push lock hose and fittings braided is way overkill and way to expensive

Alright I think this is the set up I'll be going with. I just need to figure out what fittings to order lol
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 574
Alright I think this is the set up I'll be going with. I just need to figure out what fittings to order lol
its not hard you need a -10 weld on alum bung a -10 weld on steel bung both male some -10 pushlock hose and fittingss and a air/oil sep with 1/2 in and out
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Area47
it was called sarcasm. please learn it. it is used a lot.

the point has already been stated as to why the baffle is there. you more or less voided the whole purpose behind it. i do hope you enjoy the oily mess that will show up later on.

the people on ls1tech {that you used for a reference} ended up going the cheap route instead of getting the proper parts to do it. IE taller covers, or spacers for the covers. they also have an oil issue due to this.

however, in the end, your failure will happen as others who have been down this road before have state what will happen.

this is where i reserve the right to say "i told you so" for future use.
this....dont believe everything you read on the internet...
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 03:56 PM
  #50  
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You all, I am telling you my baffleless setup works fine and did for many miles.There was never any oil in the can either. I could throw the baffle back on but then I would be believing everything I read on the internet. LOL
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