My LOL was sarcasm before your sarcasm but nevermind that seems like you have it all figued out.

 

i had it figured out a long time ago.

since you seem to be the great master of science/physics. explain to the rest of the board your reasoning as to why. unknown to the engineer's who built the car and their reasoning, im sure your's is far superior and more in depth than just basic air flow calculations and computer simulated models.

 

Never said I or my setup was superior, that is how you come off on this forum, just that it works. your first reply to my setup was "well thats failure waiting to happen".

 

sad actually all that effort tearing apart the rocker cover is good to find out how it is, but the orifices are critical to generate vacuum levels, and I think both Area and Mr. B indictated why your system is unfortunate.

It is yours and you are happy with it, but I sure would not recommend this for most people, as it will really not draw any vacuum what soever.

But good effort. BTW, powdercoating ovens at 300-350 degrees F wont melt the plastic. If that temp did, then the motor would be in serious trouble, as oil can see those temperatures at max loads, and GM design well above oil temps achieved in testing.

That said, the LSJ PCV system is not perfect, the LNF is better, the entire top runner of the rocker on the exhaust side has filters and a specific chamber and orifice on the dirty side vent where we tap in our seperators; please dont get confused about valve coking, the issue with LNF valve coking is unique to DI motors.

Area47 and Mr.Belvedere have a lot of LSJ experience and I certainly pay attention to their insight.

 

I could throw the metal baffle back on there and tac aluminum on the stock holes Powell which would help seperate the oil from the vac air but anyone that welds the bung to the back of the valve cover is also below the steel baffle. Just got off the phone with MRB and his bung is below the baffle, so there is no difference below or above the baffle. His is working fine and he does want to change it but to pull more crank case pressure off the engine.

Now I will run my setup and keep an eye on it but with the location of my drilled hole there is no splash from the lobes, I made sure that it was offset from a lobe. I have no oil in my catch can. I havent ran it long enough to feel comfortable about saying its for everyone but I am also not sure right now that its "a failure waiting to happen".

Hahns sheet metal manifold comes with a check valve and tube off the heads pcv but all that does is get gunk on the valves and cooks it on. LNF is bad too, not sure why you say its so much better, there are a lot of LNF guys complaining of valve crud from the LNF PCV. Just saying...

I dont doubt MRB knows his stuff I talk to the guy all the time, he has my block right now and he sleeved it for me and got the machine work done. Should have it soon. But to say as a baffle is a failure waiting to happen doesn't have a lot to back it up.

I dont expect the OP to do what I am doing but the typical cobalt owner isn't going to rip the VC apart much less remove it.

 

lets stick to your LSJ stuff. The DI coking is a totally different matter and using a properly designed oil seperator for DI engines, as we do, is a big part of a total system approach to DI coking with a lot of engineering work into it.

The LNF PCV stock has a fresh air inlet, to help with NOX levels, which turbo's suffer from by their nature, and thus fail emissions So the LNF is no doubt, a more comprehensive PCV system in design, it had to be to pass emissions. Thats why I say its better, because it is. LSJ has one vent out port in the cover, one out port in the IM check valved, and NO SEPERATE fresh air inlet. The S/C doesnt have the same NOX issues that turbo motors have.

GM have some of the finest engineers on the planet, and the ecotec engine series designed and built by SAAB initially and taken over by GM Powertrain, won the "ten best world wide engine" awards from Wards for about a decade iirc.

It could be that from time to time hotrodders and mod guys stumble across some interesting and even effective solutions for all sorts of things, but I have to say that without serious qualified engineering input and design/test work and information, some of the stuff I see on forums, just doesnt have a chance to work well .

 

mine is above the sep plate

 

I think the (LSJ) PCV system works different as you decribe here, as it's a 2 way system. (Just Google "PCV system")

- Low/medium loads; vacuum in the manifold, mani valve open; high mani vacuum pulls gas out of the crank AND fresh air in through the cover tube to vent the crank. (thats why it's connected to the inlet after the MAF. It's metered air)
- High loads; overpressure in manifold, valve closed, blow by gasses will be suched through the valve cover to the (low vacuum) inlet before the (wide open) TB.

Off course every sutuation in between applies too...

 

the second port I did for PhilZoot is tapped as he requested, into the rocker vent that is sealed by the gasket from the valve train, and travels through the head, and splits into the two block ports venting the base of the motor. To work like the LNF system, this port would have to be checked fresh air inlet with the inlet before the maf

 

I stand corrected I should have been more precise, no seperate fresh air inlet circuit. good description adds to this thread

 

For those in the "know"...

Im wanting to do a proper system and had already planned on going from the stock nipplie to my sealed catch can and back to my intake tract.

That being said how do you drill and weld into the pan above the baffle and not have shavings and such stuck in there?

Is there a specific position I should put my an bung?

Should I block the stock port or just pull out the steel insert and weld to that?

 

the other night i was doing 110 in 5th dropped to 4th floored it and let off about 130 and 6500 rpm i coasted to 50 mph then the check engine light started flashing and my 06 ss/sc was missing and running rough. stopped looked under hood and entire engine bay was covered in oil. dip stick was popped up other than that no other visible problems.. any ideas what caused this and what i may have broke? feel free to email me @ lnhetzner_stephens@yahoo.com im in a pinch and need to get my car fixed fast

 

Why were u going 110 in 5th and then decide to drop to 4th and punch it?!?

I hope a PCV problem is your only issue....

 

i see another build thread in the future

mine was doin the same thing..it ended up being a cracked piston...

do this
start ur engine and pull the vent line off ur intake...put ur finger over the port on your intake to keep the engine from rinning funny.. if u have a bunch of air hissing out of the vent tube i would be its a cracked piston..or broke ring

 

you popped your motor, like tjolley said, you cracked a piston, the cyl pressure escaped into your crank case and blew oil and the dip stick out of the tube. PCV is the least of your worries.

 

you dont need to be above the baffle just above the sep plate

 

I think some refer to the baffle and sep plate as the same thing.

 

it isent going to be a fast fix but it looks like your paying the for doing something stupid speed racer

 

do ur self the favor and buy a spare lsj block and get it to mrb and let him work his magic on it

 

He was fine if he floored it in 4th @110
Don't you shift out of 3rd around that speed?

 

timely thread, as I want to do this this winter while I'm apart

so consensus seems to be--

-10 welded above tin plate, but not specifically at one of the crankcase passages, run to a air / oil separator can, then to the cold air tube. Block PCV passage in the cylinder head.

that about right?

now I gotta ask, and I know this has been asked before, what about using exhaust evac with a check valve, instead of intake ?

 

Not me.... I have a higher than 7k limiter

Anyways.... back to the topic.

 

the panevac system is set up to work best at wot no so much just cruising around

 

at low engine rpm wouldn't the crankcase pressure be low enough to not be an issue ? (not arguing, just asking)

and with the check valve, if there were positive psi in the exhaust at low rpm it wouldn't back flow into the crankcase.

 

Hurrah! compression ring locked on the cylinder wall and knocked a ring land loose! YaY detonation!