shroogis

iTrader: (1)

I know this has been discussed over and over again, but I can't find any info on Option B with NO dual pass and an extra heat exchanger... Yesterday I installed a ZZP S2 Heat Exchanger and option B, with no Dual Pass. This is how I've run everything (Yes, I used ZZP's diagram for reference )



Now, the problem I have, is bleeding it I think... The bleeder line from the stock exchanger to the option b tank doesn't really do much. Also, my IAT2 temps are ridiculously high...Like 160* cruising in 70* weather. I verified the pump works by putting the inlet tube into a jug of coolant and it definitely sucked it down... Please help!

Thanks
Nate

bulletpound

i had it running the same way and my temps were high aswell, its really dam hard to bleed it and after a month or 2 i just got a dual pass

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys...I may just have to get Dual Pass But I'd still like to get this setup to work. I'm just trying to figure out if I have the hoses ran correctly...

And I guess if it is correct, I'd like some help on bleeding techniques

bulletpound

yup you hoses look fine, another problem i had was when the car is in run and the pump is working take off the top nipple(out) on the stock pass endplate and see how much coolant flow pours out, i did not had alot at all. and as soon as the dual pass came in it was perfect. also open you can try to hold you opt b tank up high so if you have any air pockets or air it come out

SS33

You should be seeing a steady flow of fluid coming into your option B tank from the bleeder line, do you?. You should also see bubbles in the flow periodically while bleeding. How do you have your bleeder line routed?

There are pics of my install somewhere in my gallery (around page 6-7 I think)

Lemme know if you have any other questions,,, mine is routed for reverse flow, hot fluids out of IC into pump first,

Did you insert a reducer into the bleeder line ???

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

Nah, theres no steady flow at all. I can take the bleeder line off of the option B tank and nothing comes out at all.

I have a brass 90* fitting on the stock heat exchanger with a .40 orifice. I didn't do that part of the install, my buddy who did this on his Red Line did it. I assume it's done right...

I do see bubbles coming into the tank from the 3/4" line periodically.

Just drove it around... The temperatures were acceptable until I did a 2nd gear pull. They went up to 140 by 80mph and then just would not ******' drop. This **** is so irritating.

I suppose I could remove the brass 90* with restrictor and re-do that myself.

SS33

I wouldn't suggest a 90*, not the greatest for flow here's a pic of my set-up,,,



But something you might wanna check is, how far the threaded adapter goes down into the stock HE. I had to shorten my adapter because it was coming into contact with the fins inside the HE well before it was fully threaded in. If its been smashed into the top of the fins, than it won't be able to receive proper flow.

You know what I'm saying?

If he didn't check for this first then he may have just kept tightening the adaptor straight into the fins inside your HE. And that would explain why you aren't getting flow through the bleeder line into your surge tank.

HTH, I've been awake for way too many hours though,,, so lemme know if any of that made sense

I'm almost 100% this is your problem,,, you should not be able to pull off that bleeder line without getting hosed by coolant. Even with a 90 you should be getting something through there.

daythecountrydied21

s33 if u have a STEADY flow coming out of the bleeder line you're doing it wrong. there needs to be a .40 orifice in there after the brass piece.
he has to use a brass 90 because the ions and cobalts don't have the same clearance as the cobalts where your orange part starts behind your h/e, ours starts right above the h/e.

like i said on RLF shroog sounds like a kinked hose to me.

SS33

I have the .040 orifice. Unless you block the line entirely you will have flow through this line, I think we're mincing words at this point.

For doin it wrong it sure works well. I usually cruise at ~20* over ambient in summer. And have watched my IAT's since day one, noticing marked reductions with each mod to the cooling system (Second HE, Dual Pass + option B),

Regardless his bleeder line is not working if it is not carrying coolant and/or air pockets to the new highest point in the system, the surge tank. I agree with you, if it is not being blocked off at the HE a kinked hose would be the nest most likely possibility. But I know that when I did my install, if I hadn't shortened the Adapters down quite a few threads it created this very same problem, It worked for me.

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input guys, SS33, that makes sense. BTW, I'm slowneon on xceedspeed

I jumped the intercooler pump with a wire and let it run. I can feel the hose from the IC pump into the bottom end plate fitting and I can feel the coolant going through it, although, when I grab a hold of the endplate out fitting (top one), I don't feel ****...

And does anyone have a picture of a .040" orifice? My buddy used a very small vacuum T and cut the small end off or it.

OK, another strange thing is happening...

I took the 1/4" line off of the bleeder fitting on the stock h/e.

I then took the top hose off of the end plate.

I jumped the IC pump and coolant was pouring out the top fitting, like it should.

Fluid was ALSO coming out of the bleeder fitting.

I put the top hose back on the end plate, but NOT the 1/4" bleeder hose. Actually, I removed the fitting from the stock heat exchanger all together, to rule out the fact that it may be threading too far.

I jumped the IC pump again, and NOTHING was coming out of the bleeder fitting...Expalin that!



Edit: Heres some images...

Where the fitting goes:


90* fitting with restrictor inside and 1/4" barb:


Barb with restrictor in it:


Plumbing into the end plate and out of the end plate.


I still cannot figure out why there is nothing coming out of the bleeder hole when the IC pump is running.

qwikredline

restrictor must be .040 some folks are missing a zero. your restrictor looks too big, its a tiny tiny hole i cant see it clearly in your piktar. I would have turned the T the other way. I would also try the system without the additional h/e and try that first. I used option B on a stock system ( 4 pass ) and no worries for evah...

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

I don't think the restrictor size matters if I'm not getting any flow out of that port on the stock h/e.

Also, I figured the T facing down would be easier for the pump to pump to the option b tank. Think it makes that big of a difference?

I shortened a hose that was sort of kinking and the system needs to be refilled.

What is the best way to fill the system with option B and no heat exchanger fill cap?

Update:

I flipped the T fitting sideways, that should give it equal flow:



I then refilled the system from the opt b tank. Lifted the tank upwards to hopefully draw as much through the tank into the system as possible. I'm letting the IC pump run for an hour or so...

What happens if the fluid level doesn't go down at all?

Here's a shot of my girlfriends 08 SS and my car being worked on:

qwikredline

its a mystery to me why it doesnt work for you. On a redline you have to have a 90 degree fitting Cobalt is straightup, the Redline has different front rad supports. An option B tank should be a 1 hour install at the most, and if no fluid comes out as a hose is kinked, then thats your answer. No kinks is important...I am also say I had a buddy who is pretty smart have a lot of trouble getting the air out and the only difference between his and mine, is an extra heat exchanger. I dont run an extra one, I run the racing Griffin 1.5 inch h/e in the stock location...cooling data by GM said that was the best one... Oh and one more thing? I would have run a plastic Y not a T the way you have routed it (lol)

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

Ok, another update

Quickredline, I agree, a Y would have been much better, but I think having the T sideways is as good as I'll get it.

Also, I know the bleeder is bleeding air because when I take the opt b tank, lift it stright up (so the coolant covers where the bleeder inlet is), it bubbles. Obviously air is coming through that line into the tank.

I let the pump run for about 30 min and then took it for a drive. Definitely an improvement, cruising at 50mph, the IAT2 temps were 30 above ambient (just like when my car had the stock heat exchanger and no opt b).

I did a 0-90mph run and the temps hit 160 and dropped really really slowly

I got home, popped the hood and the tank is still full...not sure why it isnt going down like everyone else says. I have the pump running again hoping it will bleed some more.

daythecountrydied21

Ideally you should only have a gurgle here and there. When I had the orifice in mine that was too large i had a constant flow. If you have more than that your orifice probably isn't .40...

and shroog listen to qwik and delete the 2nd h/e if that's what he says to do dont 2nd guess anything he says really lol..

TurboTommy

iTrader: (1)

subscribed

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

Ugh these cars are so frustrating. I'm not sure what the deal is, but in traffic, at lights, it will hit 140* IAT2. That is worse than stock, and I know it's working because it cools down as you drive...I see no noticeable improvement over stock.

Who is going to start the 1/4 mile at 140* temps?

Is it still "bleeding"? The opt b tank is always at the full mark, so I assume it's bled.

Other than that, the allen screw on the front of the ZZP S2 exchanger is leaking... how nice.

/rant

daythecountrydied21

all you did was add another holding tank what did you expect?
of course temps are going to be going up sitting at a light, thats where dual and single pass come in, which you don't have.

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

I added an extra tank as well as the Stage 2 ZZP heat exchanger (in line with stock :/ )

Oh, I understand, I just figured adding a big ass heat exchanger would make the car run a lot cooler than stock..I guess i'll let this ****** bleed for a few months...

Guess I'll order a dual pass endplate next, I just don't want to be disappointed.

qwikredline

its a hard road your are plugging along Shroogis, so keep the faith and do a little more research, talk to various folks and it will come true. The Jury never really convened on the front mounted h/w by the way...and I have not seen any bona fide testing of that set up. I am sure someone here can set me straight on it. Tip? talk to Josh or Sean at OTTP. No bs answers....

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Quick. I hear ya.

I actually have OTT's Stage 1 kit on the car, I've had it since October

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

This is getting old

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

does it matter if you have the T-fitting facing up, down, or sideways ?? mine is facing up like it did when the factory fill neck was there and it seems to be flowing great.

shroogis

iTrader: (1)

I will try rotating it up tonight, as well as draining the dexcool 50/50 and replacing it with Distilled water and water wetter...I'm willing to try anything

bulletpound

like i said b4 i was having the EXACT same problem as you till i got a dual pass and everything went back down to normal. i too have the ottp stg 1. and on a day with iat 55 my iat2s are 79-80 crusing at 80mph. and if i do pulls it doesnt go higher than 135 and quickly drops lol