sub'd for pics

 

they were stock mounts with the bushings pressed in.

 

that was first run, then they had these

 

Subd

 

I can't decide if I should go stage 1 or 2. I'm thinking stage 1 mainly due to the fact that I don't have a lot of disposable income, being unemployed and all.

 

stage 2 work a bit better than stage 1... the spacer under your stock rear mount with the stage 1 will do the job just fine I was told, stage 2 is for when you really want peace of mind knowing the mounts will do their job!

Stage 2 mounts here, no complaints. the occasional 'skip' i'd say, but no hop. I can burn through 1st without fear of hopping. you'll hop regardless if you power through first and then you start to grab around 20mph or so, you'll be around 4.5k rpm and then you'll grab spin grap spin, and just skip a bit but by then punch it and go.

Shitty tires also make hop worse. got some good max perf. summer tires and hop is gone, had all season rubbage and i skipped a bit w/ stage 2 mounts. and by skip, read above again, no hop. just slight grab slip grab slip due to poor tires. some1 suggested control arm bushings, spherical ones are my next mod.

 

The main difference between stage 1 and stage 2 is: ____________________________
Stage 2 is ___________ worth it over stage 1.
A solid motor mount is _______ than OTTP's mounts.
TTR's solid engine mount ______ with the OTTP tranny mounts.

Can somebody fill this in for me? Thanks in advance.

Note: With JUST an ingalls TD, and 225/40/18 General UHP's, I had zero wheel hop, even in the rain. I sold that though, so I have high hopes for these stage 1 mounts.

 

i still get wheel hop some times at the track with stage 2 rotated mounts but not much

solid engine and trans mounts will work better then rotated mounts but with ALOT more vibs
i have had both full solid mounts and rotated mounts

 

Mine came in, but im in VA right now when i get back i'll post up some pics if i remember. My set up will be Ingalls TQ damper (from OTTP) and stage 2 mounts. stock engine for the most part. We'll have to see how they hold up with my shitty ass tires. I'll try to remember to post up when i get back!

 

I think I'm just going to spring for the stage 1. I don't need to be spending any more $ on this car..

Anyone with S1 notice firmer shifts? Or does it drive the same as stock.

 

A tire's contact patch, construction, type (summer: ultra, max and extreme performance - or all season) will affect how you grab or hop. some people never hop, some people always hop. Hence why the rotated mounts simply work regardless, that's why I got em. So...

The main difference between stage 1 and stage 2 is: the new rotated position and its durability...
*Stage 2 has a rotated rear mount in ther kit as well, not just a spacer under the stocker. So, yea it's worth it. You're using 2 mounts to rotate the engine to it's new rotated position, rather than just using the front only as the new position point and having stock rubber inserts in the other mounts placing extra stress on the rear stock tranny mount's rubber insert.

Stage 2 is, I'd say, yes! worth it over stage 1.
*Depends on your launching technique too. Any1 with just a Torque Dampener can dump the clutch and spin past wheel hop, once you pass the static friction of the wheels to the road, it's a matter of keeping on the gas to keep em lit up and wheel hop won't exist. The rotated mounts are awesome, and using the above explanation (I used the same one to help decide between stage 1 and 2) I chose stage 2. I want the best on my car, and if it works better than stage 1, even if it's a tiiiiny bit, it's worth it. Wheel hop SUCKS. the next comparo will tell you about my poly insert experience...

A solid motor mount [does] the same job as the OTTP mounts.
*Sort of... wheel hop elimination is the end goal. The solid mounts eliminate engine bounce, which is a major contributor to wheel hop. then again so is the control arm bushings, the fact that the axles flex, and the rate at which the shocks compress and decompress... They also have a **** ton of vibes. I still had wheel hop with them. Wheel hop AND vibes =
*the rotated mounts are designed to help align the output of the transaxle to the input of the wheel hub, which helps the wheels get and use the power without flexing the suspension components before the wheels grab as much. two different approaches, and i prefer rotated over solid mounts. Had both. I had trans and upper solid, and i filled my other mount below the fusebox with quiksteel as well. SUCKED.

TTR's solid engine mount works well with the OTTP tranny mounts.
*I have yet to try it out, I still have my solid TTR upper engine mount in my room, I wanna throw it on to make a comparo but I just haven't gotten to it. I'll have to experiment one day, but I have heard it is the ultimate in wheel hop elimination. I just don't want to have a single vibe in my car, and right now everything is mint and who wants to mess up a good thing? Either way, do rotated mounts first THEN if you aren';t happy, though you should be, get the solid upper as well.

Hope that helps. That is the best way to describe them in my eyes. Wheel hop is a bitch, hell even my dad's '05 C6 Vette hopped a bit when I got on from a dig in competitive mode, it just powers through it no problem and you can feel the rear of the car lift and lower and lift oh so slightly. Told my dad and he was like hell no it's fine don't criticize my car, lol.

To conclude: Stage 2 is the way to go. Poly gives you vibes and doesn't get the job done. If you can't afford it, Stage 1 will do a good job but not as good as stage 2.

 

so i'm still getting wheel hop! idk if it's me launching the car. but i thought this was suppose to elimanate wheel hop. mods are in my sig, but idk what to think of these!?!?!?

 

did u loosen the 3 bolts on the pass side engine mount to let it adjust to the rotation?

 

This.

 

yes i did