i recently turbo swapped my car. to a vulcan intake manifold with a precision 50 trim. I have custom intercooler piping with a 3" zzp maf tube. The car has been tuned but i keep getting the maf high code. I checked shopkey it says anything over 10,000hz for the maf frequency will cause the code. When i do a second gear pull by like 5,000 rpms i am around 10,700hz. And my maf lb/min is around 46 to 47. Now my question is what is casuing this problem. do i need to upgrade to a 3.5" maf tube. Is it possible i'm maxing out the maf sensor. Let me know what you guys think. Also I'm running 22psi.

guess no one has suggestions. i pulled this quote from black06g85 on hp tuners forum. i think my problem is i have 2.5" on the cold side then it jumps to 3" for the maf tube which is only 10 inches away from the throttle body

just look at my setup on ss/net.
you want the BOV on hot side, MAf on cold side at least 18 inches away from the TB and in a straight run of pipe to reduce turbulance.
Also cold side where maf is must be 3" all the way from the FMIC to the TB. This will keep you from running out of range on the maf.
Then just rescale from there using a commanded vs actual afr % histogram. works pretty well and it's not hard to do. But don't do WOT runs til you get it somewhate accurate in cruising first.

 

It this affecting your performance?

You are getting this code because your stock MAF high freq limit is set to 11000 hz, above that it will throw a code, obviously. This is where you run out of cells in the tune. You can set the MAF to fail up to just over 16000 hz (I believe that is its limit). The tune should do last cell interpolation. Is this safe? IDK I have not gone that high. Someone else would need to chime in.

 

yea the car breaks up around 5800rpms or somewhere around there. then it temporairly goes into limp mode then clears up. but i get this code constantly. i keep clearing it but it comes back pull after pull. its really pissing me off. i think i need to change my whole cold side around.

 

you cold side should really be 3 inch from IC to the throttle body. set the MAF fail high to at least 14000Hz and turn off the codes and set them to "no error reported" your gonna be going past the last cell but it will be fine

**edited since i read how your cold side is set-up**

 

yea i wish it was that easy. i dont have hp tuners. and i'm broke already spent 250 to get it tunned and it still runs like ****

 

Explain breaks up.

go back to the tuner and tell them to fix it. If it is not running right it is their fault.

 

if i get on it in second or third it pulls then misses i'm assuming opens the wastegate like i let off the throttle.

 

who tuned you? its a simple fix to change that stuff

 

honestly i dont really want to say who tuned me i dont want to start **** cause some people say he's an awesome tuner and other people say he sucks. so i'll just say that anytime i go back he tries to charge me dyno time. and if its a simple fix i'll probably just leave it now till i get retuned by most likely byt

 

Tell your tuner that the tune is not working right and he/she needs to fix it. You should not be charged for their mistake.

 

yea i'll see what i can do. and if i get time to go back out there. its about an hour away from me

 

charging for dyno? its a 2 minute fix that doesn't even require the car to go on a dyno

 

true.

 

dude i treat my customers so good when i tune them. i usually charge $150 to $200 depending on what i have to do. and later fixes are reasonable prices. nothing outrageous

 

yea well shops like to make money. wish i would have went with byt originally from what i hear he's a great guy and doesnt charge for retunes or fixes

 

And you would also not charge again if your tune is not performing. This tuner is which is BS.

 

of course not. i worked with one guy for three days getting his tune solid cause i was having issues doing it.

 

well i cant do to much till i get my new clutch put in cause the stocker is slipping like crazy.

 

I have done the same.