I had a long tube as well, and all i needed was an extended socket and i had no problems.

 

in the end i needed those black nuts, it would of saved me a headache and from having to crush the primaries down on top to allow the stock nut to fit

 

I dont know thats weird... but i guess thats how they made it..

sorry i couldnt help ya man.

 

yeah i had to hit my beautyful header with a hammer when it was hot to make it flat on top, so now its not show quality anymore, if you look closely you'll see the whack marks

 

crazy.

 

theres a pic of the end result, the #2 primary got it the wrost, the rest i as able to get using another tool

 

I dont see why that was neccessary...

if you pulled the header back a half inch, and placed the nut on the bolt, it would be past those little ridges...

 

see the image i posted, it wouldnt of worked, even like this it was a problem getting the socket to wrap around the nut

post #25

 

You dont have an open ended wrench?

Since it is on the top it would be easy to use.

 

This is not an isolated case.
I had the pleasure of taking off this header to replace it and the down pipe with our own header/Dp combo.
It took me @1-1/2 hrs to get that thing off due to the same problem, but on 3 of the top nut's.
The previous shop had ground down the shoulder of the nut's to get them on and they still dug into the primaries.
I had the joy of getting them off with an open end wrench that I could only turn a fraction at a time!
I had even gone as far as grinding down one of my sockets to bare minimum, but that wouldn't even work.
This is an assembly problem that needs to be fixed for future customers.

 

wow, so this is not just me than, hmm, well it was a pain i would not mod the engine to fit a header, i would mod the header which is why i had to take a hammer to the primaries to make themf lat on top, was a damn pain in the ass; now i have to work on fixing the downpipe bc my exhaust is sticking 1.5" inches further back and its bc i need to cut the end of the dp and make it shorter witht he supplier flange and pipe, i was wonderign what it was for lol, another trip to the exhaust shop x_x
also the supplied gasket was not port matched, i compared it to the new GM one i had, not port matched, i compared it to the flange on the header, not port matched, the damn thing had every hole to small :p i even used a sharie to outline how the stock one was, and how the port on the header was x_x

 

I had the same problem on my CTI header I installed tonight. It added about 20 mins to the install.

 

Yeah I'm heading to the exhaust shop tommorow getting my exhaust fix'd, if it still leak it's at the head 4 sure and ima cut the gasket I got from pacesetter and putting it on

 

actually the 2 bolts they sent me for my ball joint thing were to long and didnt let me tighten it down right..i just bought short bolts...and 10k miles plus no problems

 

yeah i got 2 bolts that were to short too :p, not to short just the threading wasnt for the entire lenght of the bolt, so i coudlnt tighten it all the way, but thats a easy fix, i didnt get a chance to go to my exhaust shop; dont feel like paying them to cut 1" off myy exhaust bc it touches the torsio beam :p ima just wrap my catback with header wrap, its stainless steel so it wont rust that will stop rattling noises, and my tip is clamp'd on so i can slide it back a tad bit again, problem solved and it saved me money