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CBM is the place to go if you need an 1100hp stroked LS7 so it’s safe to say the builder knows his **** but I can’t wrap my head around what this is. What do you think?
“””This motor was hand built by Sean Mckillop of CBM for his own personal race-car project. The motor was completed, tuned and broken in but has very little use otherwise. His project stalled, so I bought the motor for him for my BFD. I'm selling the BFD, so I now have the motor for sale too. This is a 2.3 motor, that is not a typo. Sean picked a 2.4 block and 2.2 crank in order to create a better bore/stroke ratio, rod ratio, and rod angles. This also allowed for more ring-height in the custom pistons. This is top-notch stuff you don't often find in an Ecotec package. The motor uses a ported and modified LSJ Supercharger with a LS1 throttle body (included).
2.4 Block with oil squirters
custom JE pistons 9.5:1 Ceramic coated tops and sides
Totalseal rings
Clevite bearings
Eagle h-beam rods
2.2L GM crank
CNC ported new style (individual coil) L61 head - includes cnc ported combustion chambers
82# valve springs (good for 9000rpm)
Inconel exhaust valves (oversized)
Nitride intake valves (oversized)
Comp cams
Adjustable cam gears
Neutral balance shafts
Port matched intake manifold
Port matched blower (throttle body inlet does not taper down or use an adapter)
Its essentially just a big bore L61. I wouldnt have any issue running it if it was built by CBM but 6k seems pretty steep to me. Those MEFI ecus cant be tuned with HPT either.
6k might be a bit high for a motor that has been run, but you have to remember the blower is included and a standalone system. Pretty much add an exhaust system and heat exchanger system to have a running sand rail or boat.
its a 2.4 block, 2.2l crank and 2.2l head. its an uncommon combination, most people tend to gravitate to the 2.0l cranks because they are forged, and with a 2.4l block it makes a 2.1l. ive thought about the 2.3l combo before, but i really dont see much benefit over running a 2.4 crank. yes the rod to stroke ratio is better with the 2.2l crank, but its even better with the 2.0l crank.
the price is alright considering what there (built motor, full supercharger setup and computer/wiring), however im not a fan of mefi stuff.
Mefi is what Mercury Marine uses for it inboard engines. It’s simple and water proof. It does not have the hundreds of other inputs and outputs that a car uses. Some like mine do not have O2 sensor because the exhaust is water cooled. I’m only off road and run it hard at temp so it’s OK without O2.
I run an ignition switch, a start button, two light switches. First fan comes on with ignition and second fan is on a 3rd manual switch. Temp, tach and boost are down on the console. I only glance at a temp gauge if it’s hot out and need the second fan. It uses a manual switch but the computer could do it. Boost gauge is never looked at unless the bypass valve needs a drop of oil and tach is not looked at at all.
Idle only drops if the car sits about 15 seconds. When running it stays above 1500. It’s faster that way when blowing thru gears or ripping out of turns. I can also stab the breaks really hard with no clutch to initiate steer with rear if I have too. The engine will not stall with the idle screaming. It’s perfect! Fuel pressure is a mechanical gauge on the fuel rail set at 60. Except for what I mentioned this is the entire electrical system including battery and computer with the cover off. Not much to it.
ive dealt with mefi systems before, i know how they work and what they are about. my issue with them is they are a marine efi unit, they work alright in a marine application but they are far from ideal for a land based application. there are a number of far more adjustable, far more comprehensive systems that work better in a land based vehicle, be it on or offroad.
keep in mind thats just my opinion. many people use them without issue, and if it works for them, it works.
From what i can gather its a decent deal for like yall said a marine setup but for anything else Id try to get the engine on its own cheaper. I don't see the increased benefits of using a 2.2 crank for ratios over a stronger forged 2.4 or 2.0. This engine was setup on the intentions to run at higher rpms regularly from what I gather on the headwork, cams, and neutral shafts so I feel like that was a stupid decision.