yes you're correct, it is a larger pulley for the cooling capabilities, it's a 2.8. My iat2 can stay right around or below ambient air temp during a pull with the 2.8. So basically just chose to try n achieve gains through colder iat rather than smaller pulley.

For fuel on the street I use E85 when going to a track I use Sunoco Race Fuel E85-R

 

Stainless manifold above

 

How are you doing that exactly?

 

Purchasing parts, a lot of research, experiments, homemade engineering,fabrication and a commitment to eliminating as much heat that isn't ambient as possible. here's a list of everything currently installed in my car that contributes to the low iat2's

 

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[QUOTE=ECaulk;7662259]404error list not found[/QUOTE

Took a long time to type lol & it's possible I'm forgetting some things atm. Been a long ass day

In short, the answer to that question is,
Purchasing parts, a lot of research, experiments, homemade engineering,fabrication, attention to every detail and a commitment to eliminating as much heat that isn't ambient as possible.


Detailed & specific answer to that question is here, a list of everything currently installed in my car that contributes to the low iat2's

Less air restriction from start to finish,
airflow:
-6.75" turbonetics velocity funnel taking in air from the from bumper w just a screen, no air filter
-, 4"-3.5" intake piping
-ls4 tb
-harrop tvs 1320, 2.8 pulley
-ported & polished intake manifold to match head ports
-Zzp ported head
-zzp long tube header 1.75" primary's - 3" merge collector
-zzp 3" cat less down pipe
-zzp 3" exhaust w resonator & muffler

intercooling:
-Custom fabricated 4 core x 1 pass intake manifold intercooler; 2 entrance fittings, 3 exit fittings (zzp dual pass)
-Custom stainless steel "exit manifold" -3) 3/4-1/2" inlet fittings, 1) 3/4" outlet fitting, 1) 3/4" overflow resivior fitting
-3 gallon inline icebox
-1 overflow resovior
-2) heat exchangers (zzp s3 & zzp stealth)
-2) inline water pumps
-80/20 Bottled water to Coolant mixture
-2 bottles of Royal Purple: Purple Ice
-2) 7" h.o. Pusher fans mounted to stealth he where the bumper covers/blocks air from hitting the fins

extra heat soak & transfer precautions taken:
-DEI titanium header wrap around header & down pipe
-dei titanium heat blocking sleeves over heater hoses & Coolant overflow Line
​​​​​​​-dei cold intake wrap around air intake
-dei aluminized heat reflecting tape over Coolant overflow, water pump & pipe, thermostat housing, intake manifold
-7" h.o. Fan over the blower
-zzp silicone radiator hoses w dei heat reflecting tape & 1" conduit/looms over the hoses
-zzp phenolic intake manifold Spacer & paper gaskets
-deleted pcv/intake return hose in exchange for a pcv breather filter

More misc measures:
-Zzp oversized aluminum radiator
-80/20 bottled water to Coolant
-1 bottle of Royal purple: purple ice
-NGK v-power spark plugs 2 steps colder
-Sunoco Race Fuel E85-R, which is always a consistent combination of 85% ethanol & 15% highly oxygenated race fuel
-AIT Racing Zen body kit (front bumper applies to this list being I bought it bc of how much larger the grill openings & side vents are than stock front bumper)
-Extreme Dimensions fiberglass Air Splitter

 

A lot of over-engineering going on here

 

[QUOTE=315SS;7662276]All of that cannot drop IAT2's below ambient unless you forgot to mention your spraying N2O into the intake during every pull.

 

[QUOTE=HGT;7662283]He is running an ice box, so he def can drop the temps initially pretty damn low

 

yep. That's what happens when you're 29, no wife, kids & own a house with a pretty big shop set up with every Fabricanessesity as well as your own car lift 40' from where you sleep lol

 

A modern AC system cooling evap coils to sub freezing can barely pull 50 degrees out of 100 degree air.

Lets say it's an 80 degree day and 80 degree air is being drawn in at sea level, boosted to 15 psi doubling the temp to a minimum of 160F. Not counting anything else that induces temps your saying ice cold water is going to pull 80 degrees out of the boosted air? NOT!

 

[QUOTE=HGT;7662283]
My iat2 are most def always below ambient cruising & stay around or below on most pulls, the capacity of my intercooler system is over 5 gallons & with a 4 core single pass intercooler & 2 pumps the liquid is hardly in the manifold long enough to absorb any heat from the boost.

going to the dyno later next week I'll try n set up an in car go pro on the gauges to show ya

 

in theory nothing is left to induce temps, did you read the lists lol
ice box, 2 heat exchangers 3 fans etc all the air splitter honestly was one of the single most helpful mods for this goal as well, all the air has to pass through the heat exchangers

 

Heres another fun fact, my car at last tune was running @ 24.6psi Boost and still achieving below ambient iat 😎🚦🏎🏁

ill get you a video lol

 

What psi boost are you running with what pulley?

 

I'm going to bet a lot of that is due to a delay in the heat transfer from the air to sensor. Not sure how fast of a response the IAT2 sensor has on the LSJ or it's location relative to airflow or any of his cooling lines. If he has a line running on top of or next to it he could be skewing the reading.

 

In reality there is a lot left to induce temps. Shoot a video of your IAT2 temps after sitting and idling for 30 minutes hood shut. If there's nothing to induce temps, you will read ambient but that ain't gonna happen.

AC evaporators run well below freezing as the air blowing across the fins keeps the evap just at to above freezing.

Your heat exchanger is not running 20F coolant through it.

 

Not without N2O it wasn't

 

its sandwhiched between, a hot blower, Coolant Line & radiator hose, if anything it would be skewed in the opposite direction.
Refresh rate on my scan gauge is at 16x so it's refreshing more often than we blink

2.8 & 24.6psi

 

2.8 and 24.6psi? With all your flow mods shouldn't that number be a bit lower on a 2.8" pulley? I'm running 15 psi on a 2.2 with TVS on 2.8" pulley and I only have a hack port match job on exhaust side and ZZP S2 blower cams.

 

But but moar boost = moar powah

 

315SS

To try and explain this, tell me a couple things.

What is the temperature of your coolant mixture in your heat exchanger at 70 f ambient?
What does 70f ambient air go to at 24.6 psi of boost pressure before after cooling?

 

4"-3.5" intake with funnel, ported head, ported intake manifold are all new additions, the car hasn't been tuned yet for those flow mods, next week it'll be getting tuned & I'll know the boost pressure w/ a 2.8.

Also though, I an OD ati super damper crank pulley installed which with a 2.8 pulley would be equivalent to a stock harmonic balancer and a 2.7 pulley.

The 24.6psi was with zzp 3" cold air intake, ls4 tb, tvs & 2.8, zzp 3" long tube header, zzp 3" downpipe cat less & 3" zzp exhaust w resonator & muffler

 

dude just keep throwing out mod lists to back his "Stats"

 

I'm assuming your iat2 must be really high during a pull and that's why you're having such a hard time believing this lol. Idk about idling for a half hour because obv the iat2 is going to go up at idle bc of the lack of air passing by the sensor. But even still, I have 3 extra fans on a switch So even idling for an extensive period of time, yea the temp goes up but as soon as I get going again it goes right back down lol.

Anyway i I seen your post last night, litteralky walked outside popped open the he resovior and the liquid in there was 30*+\- below ambient, without any ice in the icebox. Pointed at liquid in resovior
Pointed at valve cover