2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

sc question

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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 03:07 PM
  #26  
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I always went with a new one. Only had mine off twice. For painting, then tvs swap.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 03:40 PM
  #27  
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i have honestly taken mine of like 20+ times...still on stock SC gasket
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 05:41 PM
  #28  
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well if the gasket is ok i'll just reuse it.....and not pick up the new gasket since i havn't paid for it yet
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 05:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kristen
well if the gasket is ok i'll just reuse it.....and not pick up the new gasket since i havn't paid for it yet
its a metal gasket. it is reusable
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #30  
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yeah i reused my gasket as well no biggie there like others said its metal with a rubber seal. any more questions just ask
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 07:47 PM
  #31  
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From: Kissimmee, Fl
Originally Posted by myfakeevo
its a metal gasket. it is reusable
There's a rubber seal on the gasket. Also, she's got a number of miles on her car. That long without the blower being removed coulc cause the gasket to stick to the blower or intake manifold. If it does and she pulls it off, the gasket could get fucked. So, better safe than sorry.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:00 PM
  #32  
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I wouldn't mess with pulling the intake, unless you really wanted to get every last drop of coolant out of there. It would be much easier to just pull the fuel rail, injectors, and blower and suck the coolant out that way....I'm guessing that there is probably coolant pooled in your lower intake since it idles fine, but when you step on the gas it bogs down and dies.....what is happening is the when you step on the gas there is more pressure and it is sucking up the coolant from the lower intake. As for the gasket, it is reusable if you are careful. it is rubber so unless you are really rough with it, it should be o.k. Just put a light coat of oil on it before reinstalling the SC.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:34 PM
  #33  
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I'm wondering the the intake caught most of it or how much could be in the oil pan. Have you lulled the dipstick to see what the oil looks like? Your actually lucky ....even thou it doesn't seem like it right now. I've seen motors with bent rods from trying to compress water.

You might want to PM 383stroker ..... his car was flooded ...completely submerged . He got it back and did a great job getting it going again.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 10:07 PM
  #34  
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there's a nice little puddle in the intake manifold after we pulled the blower, I was trying to see if I could find some instructions on removing the intake manifold but wow is it hard to find help removing parts for this car.

We decided to just replace the blower gasket with the # of miles the engine has, and I'd like to remove the intake manifold so I can get as much out as possible then blow it dry.

Kristen spoke to someone (I forget who it was) who said there's one bolt behind the alt so the alt needs to be removed, are there any other hidden bolts I need to be aware of? It also seemed like I need to pull the fuel rail and injectors or am I mistaken? I assume we should replace the intake manifold gasket as well if we're pulling it correct?

I just want to thank all of you for helping us out with this.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 10:21 PM
  #35  
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No, to get the manifold, you just take the 3 bolts out of the alternator and set it forward (to your left as you are working on the car, the front of the engine), then reach a big ratchet with a 15mm on it (I use a 1/2" drive ratchet and a short socket, works perfectly) to the bottom rear of the manifold and take out the bolt holding it to the I/C pump bracket.

Yes you will have to pull the injectors/rail, not a big deal, 2 10mm bolts on the rail and one on the metal line feeding it, it comes right out. I usually pull the coolant bleed line (the one she plugged in wrong, the metal end where it attaches to the head) to facilitate removing the fuel rail.

After that, there is the single 10mm bolt holding the dipstick to the manifold (front left side), then the 7 bolts (well, 5 bolts and 2 nuts) holding the manifold. I also pull the studs so you can come straight up with it, much easier. They are E8 or E7 inverted Torx I believe, or you can use a small 6-point socket, like 5mm or so.

If you need, I can give help over the phone, I've coached a couple of people through dual-pass installs (same procedure, just slightly more work once you remove the manifold).
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #36  
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Very informative, thanks!

I appreciate the phone coaching, I think I'll be okay after reading your post now though. I'm going to attempt to remove it tomorrow morning and I'll post back and let everyone know how it went.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 12:37 AM
  #37  
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Here is a how to that shows all the bolt locations . Oh and if you were ever thinking about doing a dual pass end plate ........this would be the time lol.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...light=manifold
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 12:53 AM
  #38  
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Sry about the car, but on a lighter note I live right outside Pottstown near 23 and 100. This snow sucks...

Last edited by johnladow07; Dec 19, 2009 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 11:06 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by rukkee
Here is a how to that shows all the bolt locations . Oh and if you were ever thinking about doing a dual pass end plate ........this would be the time lol.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...light=manifold
thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for!

That lower bolt it a little tricky but I was able to get the intake manifold off this morning. I cleaned it up with some crc and dried it out, now we're waiting for the gaskets to come in at our local dealership. As soon as I get those I can put everything back together.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 01:19 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by johnladow07
Sry about the car, but on a lighter note I live right outside Pottstown near 23 and 100. This snow sucks...
i'm sure that i've seen you around then lol
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 01:57 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by pumm3l
thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for!

That lower bolt it a little tricky but I was able to get the intake manifold off this morning. I cleaned it up with some crc and dried it out, now we're waiting for the gaskets to come in at our local dealership. As soon as I get those I can put everything back together.

Good to hear ...... It's prolly not a bad time to have the car off the road anyways.

Looks like you guys are gunna get a taste of what we get up here in the Buffalo area.......lots of snow hehe.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 02:03 PM
  #42  
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yeah 5 inches and counting...
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 02:31 PM
  #43  
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damn mommy is a hottie. :P
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 08:34 PM
  #44  
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From: pottstown(lower pottsgrove) pa
Originally Posted by rukkee
Good to hear ...... It's prolly not a bad time to have the car off the road anyways.

Looks like you guys are gunna get a taste of what we get up here in the Buffalo area.......lots of snow hehe.
lmao hahah. we have a 2 car garage and i have my camaro and my ss/sc in there....hubbys mustang gt and wrx are out in the 8 inches of snow and counting
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 06:58 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by kristen
lmao hahah. we have a 2 car garage and i have my camaro and my ss/sc in there....hubbys mustang gt and wrx are out in the 8 inches of snow and counting
Hahaha ..... good place for them ! Good luck with the snow .... and the car .
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 11:59 PM
  #46  
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does anyone have the torque specs for the Intake manifold and SC bolts? i've been meaning to grab a service manual for this car eventually we'll get one.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 12:28 AM
  #47  
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holy ****
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 12:21 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by pumm3l
does anyone have the torque specs for the Intake manifold and SC bolts? i've been meaning to grab a service manual for this car eventually we'll get one.
I want to say they are in the 20-25 ft-lb range, not a lot. Nice and snug by hand, don't get carried away.

The manifold flange doesn't carry any weight, thats what the bolt on the bottom is for.

The blower, the bolts seem to tighten down over time, from heat/vibration I would assume. If you are worried about them, a small dab of blue loctite works wonders. Just make sure you have a good long allen key socket or t-handle to take them out with the next time.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 12:59 PM
  #49  
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Service Information
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2006 Chevrolet Cobalt | Cobalt, Pursuit (VIN A) Service Manual | Engine | Engine Mechanical - 2.0L | Specifications | Document ID: 1654362
Fastener Tightening Specifications
Fastener Tightening Specifications

Application


Specification

Metric


English

A/C Compressor to Block Bolt
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Bolt
32 N·m
24 lb ft

Balance Shaft Adjustable Chain Guide Bolt
15 N·m
11 lb ft

Balance Shaft Bearing Carrier to Block Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Balance Shaft Fixed Chain Guide Bolt
15 N·m
11 lb ft

Balance Shaft Sprocket Bolt
50 N·m
37 lb ft

Baro Sensor and Coolant Return Line Assembly
8 N·m
71 lb in

Boost Solenoid Bracket Nut
10 N·m
89 lb in

Cam Cover to Cylinder Head Bolt
8 N·m
71 lb in

Cam Cover to Ground Cable Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Cam Cover to Ground Cable Stud
10 N·m
89 lb in

Cam Sensor Bolt
8 N·m
71 lb in

Camshaft Position Sensor Housing Stud
22 N·m
16 lb ft

Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Camshaft Sprocket Bolt
* First Pass
85 N·m
63 lb ft
* Final Pass
30 degrees

Camshaft Timing Chain Tensioner
75 N·m
55 lb ft

Chain Guide Access Hole Plug
90 N·m
59 lb ft

Connecting Rod Bolts
* First Pass
25 N·m
18 lb ft
* Final Pass
100 degrees

Crankshaft Bearing Lower Crankcase to Block Bolts
* First Pass
20 N·m
15 lb ft
* Final Pass
70 degrees

Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolt
8 N·m
71 lb in

Crankshaft Position Sensor Housing Studs
22 N·m
16 lb ft

Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
* First Pass
100 N·m
74 lb ft

Final Pass
75 degrees

Cylinder Head Bolt
* First Pass
30 N·m
22 lb ft
* Final Pass
155 degrees

Cylinder Head Front Chaincase Bolt
35 N·m
26 lb ft

Cylinder Head Oil Gallery Plug
35 N·m
26 lb ft

Dipstick Guide to Intake Manifold Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Elek. ICM Cover Bolt
8 N·m
71 lb in

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
22 N·m
16 lb ft

Engine Lift Bracket Front Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Engine Lift Bracket Rear Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Engine Mount Intermediate Bracket Bolts
100 N·m
74 lb ft

Engine Mount to Intermediate Bracket Bolts
50 N·m
37 lb ft

Engine Mount to Mid-Rail Nuts
100 N·m
74 lb ft

Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Nut
12 N·m
106 lb in

Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Stud
10 N·m
89 lb in

Exhaust Manifold Pipe Flange Stud
16 N·m
12 lb ft

Exhaust Takedown Pipe Nuts
30 N·m
22 lb ft

Flywheel (SMT) Bolt

* First Pass
53 N·m
39 lb ft
* Final Pass
25 degrees

Frame Bolts
* First Pass
100 N·m
74 lb ft

* Second Pass
180 degrees

Front Cover to Block Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Front Lift Bracket Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Fuel Feed Line
14 N·m
124 lb in

Fuel Feed Line and Injector Harness Bracket
10 N·m
89 lb in

Fuel Line Bracket Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Fuel Pipe Bracket Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Fuel Rail Bracket Stud
10 N·m
89 lb in

Generator Bracket Bolt
42 N·m
31 lb ft

Generator Connector Nut
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Generator to Block Bolt
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Heat Shield to Exhaust Manifold Bolt
23 N·m
17 lb ft

Idler Pulley
22 N·m
16 lb ft

Ignition Coil Bolt
8 N·m
71 lb in

Intake Camshaft Rear Cap Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Nut
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Stud
6 N·m
53 lb in

Knock Sensor Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Lower Crankcase to Block Peripheral Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Oil Bypass Tube
22 N·m
16 lb ft

Oil Cooler
22 N·m
16 lb ft

Oil Filter Housing Cover
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Oil Gallery Plug
35 N·m
26 lb ft

Oil Gallery Plug - Rear
60 N·m
44 lb ft

Oil Level Indicator Tube Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Oil Pan Drain Plug
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Oil Pan to Block Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Oil Pressure Sensor
18 N·m
13 lb ft

Oil Pump Gerotor Cover Bolt
6 N·m
53 lb in

Oil Pump Pressure Relief Valve Plug
40 N·m
30 lb ft

Oxygen Sensor
42 N·m
31 lb ft

Power Steering Pump Blockout Plate Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Rear Lift Bracket Bolt
22 N·m
16 lb ft

Spark Plug
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Starter Motor to Block Bolt
40 N·m
30 lb ft

Starter Terminal Nut
17 N·m
13 lb ft

Supercharger Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Thermostat Housing to Block Bolts
10 N·m
89 lb in

Throttle Body Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Timing Chain Adjustable Guide Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Timing Chain Fixed Guide Bolt
15 N·m
11 lb ft

Timing Chain Oil Nozzle Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Timing Chain Upper Guide Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Torque Converter Bolts
62 N·m
46 lb ft

Transmission to Engine Bolts
75 N·m
55 lb ft

Vent Tube to Cylinder Head
15 N·m
11 lb ft

Water Pipe Support Bracket Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Water Pump Access Cover Bolt
7 N·m
62 lb in

Water Pump/Balance Shaft Chain Tensioner Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

Water Pump Bolts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Water Pump Drain Plug
20 N·m
15 lb ft

Water Pump Sprocket Bolt
10 N·m
89 lb in

© 2009 General Motors. All rights reserved.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #50  
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Kristen.

Whatever happened with this? All taken care of?
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