Say one goes with a smaller pulley (say 2.7 or 2.6). Do you have to get a smaller belt, adjustable tensioner, or both (whats recommended)?

 

the search button.. there are all ready fifty kajillion thread's on this.. if you go that low pulley wise a smaller belt and adjustable tensioner are not the only thing you need..

 

whatdo you have on there now?
you will need a smaller belt, if your stock
and you might have to shave the snout down on the sc to get the 2.6to fit

 

Did search before I posted. Always search before I post. Hence thats why I have only posted up 2 threads since I been on these boards (not that long but still..). All I found was threads of either one or the other (belt or tensioner).

I know there is alot more that goes on a car when upping the boost (tuning device, injectors, cooling mods, exhaust etc.) We have been building 600+hp SRT's for over 4 years now and neons since there 94-95. We currently hold the 5spd record both e.t. and trap speed for the SRT-4 of (10.51@131 and 138mph). To say the least I know a few things about part developing, tuning, and modding

Right now I'm just doing some research on all cobalt models in general from power and traction mods, to suspension mods, and what goes into them. Very impressed with the cobalt platform.

Anyways thanks for the help from all who have done so

 

the stage 2 belt is the shortest you can get being an oddball double side ribbed belt. some people have experianced belt slip with a 2.8" pulley and the stage 2 belt. you can get an adjustable tentioner, or a larger tensioner pulley to help with this problem.

 

well for traction full solid motor mount's care of bwoodyperformance will do.. and there race traction bar's. i believe they have full coil over setup's now from a bunch of different maker's..and for power well ditch the HEATON and go turbo for more reliable power..

 

Not a big fan of traction bars.The BWoody's are nice but I like the TTR mounts personally. Motormounts are just a band aid for the traction issue though. They help dont get me wrong, but the control arm bushings are the problem (just like the SRT's).

We made machined solid lower control arm bushings (LCA Bushings) for the SRT and have had nothing but positive feed back with people shaving up to .4 of there 60fts, and significantly reducing or totally eliminating wheel hop (Even without solid motormounts). We are making Cobalt versions for some locals but due to us not having "vendor status" yet I cant elaborate. I probably said to much already and probably going to get warned by a mod. That may be soon changing though

Turbo's are great dont get me wrong. They have brought us TONS of success in the past, present and I'm sure in the future. Although we prefer turbo's we work with cars no matter what the power adder, if any, are on it. We like it all and cater to all stages/levels someone is at, starting with the basic bolt on guy. Not everyone wants to or can go all out with slapping on a turbo thats why I'm researching the basic mods available and working my way up the latter.

 

believe me i know about the controll arm weakness in the LSJ.. mostly the ION redline. cause the suspension arm's are are stamped instead of cast like the cobalt.. as far as handleing the new SS/TC pull's a .91 G which is SICK for a FWD car. but that's thank's to the competition steering knuckles and a new sway bar front and rear.. the eaton is a good FI power adder it's jus i see so many i blew my motor thread's.. and i know cause my IRL poped the ringland's in #4 and toasted the cat before 10k miles with all dealer approved part's and a stage 2 GMPP kit.. i truely appreciate what your doing for the LSJ platform.

 

Sorry to hear about the motor. Its happend to the best of us. From all the threads I been reading about the guys that have been blowing there motors were mostly beacause of high IAT's due to insufficient cooling (heat exchanger, dual pass kits, meth etc.) and/or tuning. Thats not always the case but that seems to be the most common reason.

Looking forward to becoming a vendor on these boards eventually...

 

Actually, the 2.6" pulley I make fits without snout machining

Nate

 

just fyi- you are able to discuss up and comming products without being a vendor, however iirc, when its ready for sale, price cant be listed and you cant sell them here until you are a supporting vendor.

 

Ok thanks I just dont want to push anyone's button or get on anyone's bad side before we even get started on here. If anyone wanted to know anything about the products we plan on making, shop info, or our dyno/tuing days and rates they could just PM me, but until then I'm just going to keep my mouth closed before I say or type something I'm not allowed to.