ss/sc help problem!!!!!!
I have the exact same set-up and had the exact same problem!!!! My tuner at SMG motorsports was scratching his head. The good news is we figured it out. first take the vacume line off of the actuator going to the boost control modual, install vacume cap on the boost control modual located to the right of the valve cover you'll see it. That should solve you leaning condition at wot on the dyno if not the second thing we ran in to is I had a K/N CAI and it was not perfect and i found that when I reinstalled the stock set-up the car ran perfect and we tuned my car and finaly made 288whp and 268ftlb's at 6800 rpm's my redline is 7K. any more question's let me know!
Yea, I was having the same studdering problem with my 2.8" and 60's. I do however need a tune, as I'm currently running a INTENSE tune. Gapping my NGK's to like .032 however seemed to solve most of it. I was getting random cylinder misfires which I think may have been spark blowout. I am still having a rough idle issue though however, and yes, I have cleaned my throttle body and blower...
Anyways, I'm up for trying some new plugs... Which model Zex plugs work well? 1 step or 2 steps colder? Thanks!
Anyways, I'm up for trying some new plugs... Which model Zex plugs work well? 1 step or 2 steps colder? Thanks!
Yeah but they are expensive. Thats not your problem.
I have used the zex plugs but, now, I stick to one plug. It's NGK BKR7E COpper. You have to change them every 3000k miles but it's worth it for the best performing plug out there.
I gap mine @ .35 and they don't blow out thand I garantee 100% I am pushing more boost than you.
You may wan't to invest in a wideband as well.
I have used the zex plugs but, now, I stick to one plug. It's NGK BKR7E COpper. You have to change them every 3000k miles but it's worth it for the best performing plug out there.
I gap mine @ .35 and they don't blow out thand I garantee 100% I am pushing more boost than you.
You may wan't to invest in a wideband as well.
Yeah but they are expensive. Thats not your problem.
I have used the zex plugs but, now, I stick to one plug. It's NGK BKR7E COpper. You have to change them every 3000k miles but it's worth it for the best performing plug out there.
I gap mine @ .35 and they don't blow out thand I garantee 100% I am pushing more boost than you.
You may wan't to invest in a wideband as well.
I have used the zex plugs but, now, I stick to one plug. It's NGK BKR7E COpper. You have to change them every 3000k miles but it's worth it for the best performing plug out there.
I gap mine @ .35 and they don't blow out thand I garantee 100% I am pushing more boost than you.
You may wan't to invest in a wideband as well.
i have a wide band i had ngk bkr7e copper i just put in zex hyperformance plugs i'm pushing 22.5 lbs of boostor was pushing im miss firing at idle and normal driving and wot. i was just missing firing at wot last time.
why? i thought ideal was 11.5
Currently i command 11.0 WOT 7000 RPM
also ive noticed the irridiums have all but died out after 2 weeks of them in my car and now im sputtering like hell. Fortunately i kept my stockers and plan on using those since they were the reliable ones....at least until i get the coppers.
Currently i command 11.0 WOT 7000 RPM
also ive noticed the irridiums have all but died out after 2 weeks of them in my car and now im sputtering like hell. Fortunately i kept my stockers and plan on using those since they were the reliable ones....at least until i get the coppers.
i dont go lower than 11.5 until 6250 rpm
Last edited by rrutter81; Jul 9, 2008 at 04:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I say get with one of your friends and swap MAF's and see if it changes anything. It would take 15 minutes max to try it. I really think that is yur problem.
Mine was more the location. That sensor has to be at an exact location for the electronic calibration signal to work if you have an after market cai it's a very common problem I have a K&N and I hade the problem to. Thats what I meant about the whole MAF thing. Trust me it took weeks and alot of Dyno time to figure it out! If your freinds intake is available try his even if it is stock. Thats what I ended up doing.
Oh yah your right my afr was exactly 11.5 from 2000 up to 7000 perfectly!
Mine was more the location. That sensor has to be at an exact location for the electronic calibration signal to work if you have an after market cai it's a very common problem I have a K&N and I hade the problem to. Thats what I meant about the whole MAF thing. Trust me it took weeks and alot of Dyno time to figure it out! If your freinds intake is available try his even if it is stock. Thats what I ended up doing.
Last edited by STS2/SS; Jul 9, 2008 at 11:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Mine was more the location. That sensor has to be at an exact location for the electronic calibration signal to work if you have an after market cai it's a very common problem I have a K&N and I hade the problem to. Thats what I meant about the whole MAF thing. Trust me it took weeks and alot of Dyno time to figure it out! If your freinds intake is available try his even if it is stock. Thats what I ended up doing.
Oh yah your right my afr was exactly 11.5 from 2000 up to 7000 perfectly!
Oh yah your right my afr was exactly 11.5 from 2000 up to 7000 perfectly!
so if it has to do with my cia how do i fix it go back to stock? i cant really cause i have a trailblazer throttle body


