Im still new to these forums but i got my car back about a week ago from GM since they was putting the stage 1 and 2 in the car. Only took them a day to put it in because of the tune, I was shocked. All i got to say is that I LOVE IT! A guy at my work came up in an 07 Mustang GT and started talking crap about how fast his car is and how he can stomp my car in the ground, I just laughed and said ok anytime. Still hate the traction issues but Imma fix that here soon. I also dont like the fact that when I got on it, I shoot out a little bit of black smoke and now it stays right on my tailpipe tip and by the edge of the bumper. Ohh well I guess thats the crappy tune and thank god I have a black car. But i got a question for you guys, I was at the dealership and another mechanic came up to me and told me something about the boost solenoid valve. He said if I loosened the bolts on the bottom and move it up or down on the rod, he said I could adjust the boost so that its kicking in on the lower rpms stronger or higher rpms stronger. Anybody here about this?

 

Wow!!!
You have a lot of reading to do, but thats why your here on the forum

First you should have just had Stage II installed, if you bought both kits or bought the Stage I to II upgrade you wasted a fair amount of money. And it should take much less than a day, most kits have been installed in around ~2 hours.
The guy with the 07 GT should be able to back up that talking, if he can launch you would have to have a near perfect launch/run to hang with him/ beat him. You'll also need intake and exhaust to make that a little closer.

And no you cant adjust when the boost comes in through a bolt on the solenoid. You will get peak boost at peak rpm and you dont really want boost down low, we have traction issues as it is and if anything you'd want to lower the boost down low. The only thing I can think he is talking about would be the boost-bypass mod which is used for stock-tuned cars. With the stock tune the car bleeds boost above ~ 12.5 psi, so some have plugged the line that bleeds to maintain boost with mixed results. With Stage II though you wont need that at all.

 

to get everything and have it installed, it was i think 961.99. is that way above normal or what?? but yeah i wasnt exactly sure about the valve thing either thats why i wanted to check. but yeah, for now all i have is the air box which from what i researched is just as good as an intake. im not worried about the guy though.

 

961 is a little high but sounds about right if you purchased the parts through a dealer. Just for example I purchased mine through CED (Crate Engine Depot) for about $550 and paid about $250 for install so around $800 total. Sounds like you just got Stage II which is the right thing to do. The airbox mod is good and will help a good bit. If you ever do run the GT let us know how it comes out, if both cars are driven well it should be a good/close run.

 

Yeah im not worried about him cause i know its a driver race. Its weird though after I got my kit put on and i went out driving, a 350z pulled up to me at a stop light. We pulled off and start from about 5mph and by beginning of 3rd gear, he was at my front fender. I beat him but bearly, and amazingly the guy gave me a thumbs up. Now im not sure if i got lucky as hell but thats why Im not worried about the GT. It pisses me off to cause nobody believes me and everybody thinks the car is slow. They just dont know. 2.9 pulley and TD is coming soon though and that will help out alot.

 

Yah the 2.9 and TD should give a nice edge I plan on that soon as well actually. The Z should have been a close race like you said but dont forget the GT has an advantage in straight line even over the Z, so the GT should be more of a race than the Z.

 

Or you can have someone with hptuners just to turn down the boost is first gear. Thats what DOC did to my car. I boost 5psi, up until 4500rpms approx...then it goes to full boost, make for a much faster run.

 

how much of a difference did it make by lowering your boost through most of 1st gear?

 

WoW!!!! thats all i have to say about it. It gives your car either time to hookup while still gaining alot of speed, once it goes to full boost, the tires break loose a little bit, then i shift into second and im gone haha. I raced a cobalt ss/sc that is stock (all i have it the air box mod, a tune{just a couple smal changes i n the pcm}, ingalls etd, and cross drilled rotors) and I pulled on it, not hard I dont have heavily mods, but it definately helped.

 

I got qouted at 4 dealerships for stage 2 installed at 1200+ so you got a good deal

 

how does it work when you tune a car i'm kinda new to this

 

I got quoted on Fri at $440 for stg2 install. So its not bad at all!

 

When you tune a car, you have a program on a computer, with a cord that plugs into your computer port on the driver side. Once you have the program, you will be able to see everything programmed within the computer, you will be able to change virtually anything (dont make any changes unless you know what you are going, you might mess it up). Then you can change air to fuel ratios and all kinds of things.

 

where did u get the program that limits it from going into full boost untill certain rpm's? i live about an hour south of chicago and dont know many if any that could do it around here

 

look for someone with hp tuners, that is what can be used to tune the LSJ

$440, is that parts and install or just install?

 

He said $440 for Stg II install. I paid $525.00 shipped for the Stg II kit and then $200.00 for the install. $725.00 total after tax; that was a decent price.

 

i understand the car has nasty wheel hop but that can be fixed with better mounts, polyurethane bushings in the control arms, torque dampener, traction bars and wider and better tires. did you just do this temporarily for the time being till you u can get some traction mods or you going to keep it like this??

I thought the gt and the z was right about the same in 1/4 mile times?? Like a .1-.3 difference.

 

link please!!!

 

.3 difference is ALOT. Even if you modify to avoid wheel hop, that does not mean you won't see wheel spin. If you went with stickier tires, then yes, but then you would also have to replace your axles to handle the shock. So until one buys drag radials etc., then limiting boost in 1st is a good solution.

 

ohh ok ok i got ya. yeah i know you aint exactly going to get rid of tire spin but i just never heard about people turning the boost and everything down. but hey if you guys say it works then i might have to try it and see how good it is.

 

If you virtually eliminated wheel hop, then instead of hopping they will spin. Our first gear is short and if you give it alot of throttle you cannot avoid wheel spin, almost making first useless unless you feather the throttle perfectly as you release the clutch, but even then you will get some wheel spin. If you can avoid that by limiting boost in 1st you will have more speed and momentum going into 2nd gear where it really counts. Now if you have enough power you may experience this in 2nd as well, and it would then benefit you to regulate boost slightly in 2nd.

 

yeah i know exactly what your saying. its a smart thing to do if your car is gonna stay on the street everyday. but if your going to be at the track quite a bit then you need to worry about not spinning and get parts to help you keep traction. i guess it all depends on how much money your willing to save and what type of car your wanting to make it.

 

the new gts are like mid 13's and z are like 14 flat

 

just install

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...t=boost+bypass

Please know that I do not reccomend this in any way shape or form, running a samller pulley on stock injectors will put your IDC's well over 100%

damn thats steep