Stage 2 dyno (crappy)
Dyno in 3rd gear. There is no reason to take the car to 140mph in 4th gear, when the differences in power between 3rd and 4th are usually very small. When I dyno'd my car stock, the difference between 3rd and 4th was 2 ft lbs of torque, that's it! A 4th gear pull puts much more strain on the motor, and takes alot longer, making the motor and IC coolant much higher. Take my word for it, do a 3rd gear pull, take it to 7K rpms, and see what your results are then.
Originally Posted by Bad06SS
Dyno in 3rd gear. There is no reason to take the car to 140mph in 4th gear, when the differences in power between 3rd and 4th are usually very small. When I dyno'd my car stock, the difference between 3rd and 4th was 2 ft lbs of torque, that's it! A 4th gear pull puts much more strain on the motor, and takes alot longer, making the motor and IC coolant much higher. Take my word for it, do a 3rd gear pull, take it to 7K rpms, and see what your results are then. 

Originally Posted by purevl
Well i finally dynoed the cobalt for fun, it didnt do well at all. I dont know how you guys are making the numbers around here. I made 224hp 209tq with
injen cai
gm stage 2 15psi
gmpp catback
A/f was a solid 11.5, i did my pulls in 4th gear all the way to 6500
I made the pulls in 4th gear from 4k to 6500(7k took forever and didnt do much more). What do you guys think? Did I pull in wrong gear, is there anything i should look for. I attached the graph. Seems odd since people are posting 215 all the way to 230 bone stock and i cant get that with mods. Help

injen cai
gm stage 2 15psi
gmpp catback
A/f was a solid 11.5, i did my pulls in 4th gear all the way to 6500
I made the pulls in 4th gear from 4k to 6500(7k took forever and didnt do much more). What do you guys think? Did I pull in wrong gear, is there anything i should look for. I attached the graph. Seems odd since people are posting 215 all the way to 230 bone stock and i cant get that with mods. Help

Originally Posted by git19r87done
hey whats up everyone i wanted to show everyone my dyno run i did at my school with my 05 ss/sc cobalt. i go to universal technical institute and in the hot rod 3 class they let you run your own cars


you'll see it say 407 torque its a gitch when i redline my car it shook the dyno and mest up the reading


you'll see it say 407 torque its a gitch when i redline my car it shook the dyno and mest up the reading
Originally Posted by cvenom2122
Run shell V-power, get a 2.8 inch pulley 100.00 bucks from pulley boys, and get 1 step colder plugs gap them to .40 you should see some better gains
I will also make sure i do the pull in 3rg and pull it all the way to 7k. I cant believe these cars need to goto rev limit to make full power, thats pretty lame but i guess thats how these little motors work.
Originally Posted by purevl
already get shell or sunoco 94, i will do exactly that i will get the pulley, Does it works fine with the stage 2 gm kit? I dont need a belt or anything? Also since i got the bolt on pulley setup now, is it a quick swap to the 2.8 or does the blower still come off? Whats the plug number for the ngk's? Thanks in advance
I will also make sure i do the pull in 3rg and pull it all the way to 7k. I cant believe these cars need to goto rev limit to make full power, thats pretty lame but i guess thats how these little motors work.
I will also make sure i do the pull in 3rg and pull it all the way to 7k. I cant believe these cars need to goto rev limit to make full power, thats pretty lame but i guess thats how these little motors work.
plugs: NGK Spark Plugs (BKR7e) I bought that at Hudson NAPA but I think they were the last ones.. http://cobalt-addiction.com/performance.htm has them also tho
where do you get Sunoco 94 btw
Originally Posted by purevl
already get shell or sunoco 94, i will do exactly that i will get the pulley, Does it works fine with the stage 2 gm kit? I dont need a belt or anything? Also since i got the bolt on pulley setup now, is it a quick swap to the 2.8 or does the blower still come off? Whats the plug number for the ngk's? Thanks in advance
I will also make sure i do the pull in 3rg and pull it all the way to 7k. I cant believe these cars need to goto rev limit to make full power, thats pretty lame but i guess thats how these little motors work.
I will also make sure i do the pull in 3rg and pull it all the way to 7k. I cant believe these cars need to goto rev limit to make full power, thats pretty lame but i guess thats how these little motors work.
and the bkr7's are the one step colder plug from NGK
Originally Posted by cvenom2122
2.8 goes on in 5 mins flat! 
and the bkr7's are the one step colder plug from NGK
and the bkr7's are the one step colder plug from NGK
Originally Posted by KangolRiot
plugs: NGK Spark Plugs (BKR7e) I bought that at Hudson NAPA but I think they were the last ones.. http://cobalt-addiction.com/performance.htm has them also tho
where do you get Sunoco 94 btw
where do you get Sunoco 94 btw
Originally Posted by KangolRiot
hey mike let me know next time u go.. if its under $70 Ill go get mine dyno'd.. if its more than that Ill prolly just go to where I normally go... enhanced street perfromance in sterling
Originally Posted by git19r87done
dam dude that suck here my dyno run 05 ss/sc stock
FYI. Rule of thumb is to use the 1:1 ratio or the closest to that . Using third will not give you an accurate reading .
We have had stock 2.0s/c's put down any where from 197 hp and 192 tq to 214hp and 199 This is on a Dyno jet 224 .
Originally Posted by ludicristSS
Was that 3rd gear or 4th ?
FYI. Rule of thumb is to use the 1:1 ratio or the closest to that . Using third will not give you an accurate reading .
We have had stock 2.0s/c's put down any where from 197 hp and 192 tq to 214hp and 199 This is on a Dyno jet 224 .
FYI. Rule of thumb is to use the 1:1 ratio or the closest to that . Using third will not give you an accurate reading .
We have had stock 2.0s/c's put down any where from 197 hp and 192 tq to 214hp and 199 This is on a Dyno jet 224 .
Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
The 3rd gear ratio is 1.18:1 and the 4th is .89:1. A third gear pull will give you a higher reading, but a 4th gear pull will give a lower reading. We have nothing close to the 1:1. I would say dyno in third gear as I had issues running the car to 140+mph on the dyno. Yes, 4th would be closer, but it'll also show lower than it should be, and strain the car a lot more. This is just my opinion though.
Originally Posted by p7x
werd, since theres nothing close to 1:1 3rd gear i think would be better. Of course lil bit inflated numbers is not accurate but still coo.
yea when I went to get my car dynod they recommended 4th gear for accuracy and it was even higher numbers than 3rd for some.. I put down about 214whp 209 wtq on the mustang dyno in forth gear with just an Injen CAI at the time and the wrong spark plugs... Now I am trying to find someone with hp tuners so I can tune my CAI correctly with my Stage 2.. I notice hiccups when on wot after I got stage 2 the other day
Originally Posted by KangolRiot
yea when I went to get my car dynod they recommended 4th gear for accuracy and it was even higher numbers than 3rd for some.. I put down about 214whp 209 wtq on the mustang dyno in forth gear with just an Injen CAI at the time and the wrong spark plugs... Now I am trying to find someone with hp tuners so I can tune my CAI correctly with my Stage 2.. I notice hiccups when on wot after I got stage 2 the other day

On a side note, i just picked up a 2.8 pulley and ngk plugs for the weekend
get er done!
youll notcie a big tq increase with the 2.8! and hp should climb another 10whp or so also
also reset your battery after install and drive it for atleast 50 miles at varible speeds (including WOT) to get the car used to it, before you dyno again! these new cars are so strange...
GL my friend
AND if you still want more power HP tuners could probably pull you a few more ponies
increase timing and adjust air fuel ratios to a perfect tune and watch those #'s increase 
Im gonna go this route sooner or later, after i get my front mount heat exchanger thoe
youll notcie a big tq increase with the 2.8! and hp should climb another 10whp or so also
also reset your battery after install and drive it for atleast 50 miles at varible speeds (including WOT) to get the car used to it, before you dyno again! these new cars are so strange...
GL my friend
AND if you still want more power HP tuners could probably pull you a few more ponies
Im gonna go this route sooner or later, after i get my front mount heat exchanger thoe
purevl - There is a guy in my town the uses EFI live. His website is LS1powertuning.com I've good things about it, and I was just wondering what your input was. The guys said he was going to be receiving the latest updates soon and would be able to tune my car with it as well.
I think your dyno numbers are ok. People who dyno stock at 220HP are done on a bad dyno.
Here's a Stage 2 with a 2.79" pulley
http://www.damachining.ca/S2%202.8%20HP%20edit.jpg
Here's a Stage 2 with a 2.79" pulley
http://www.damachining.ca/S2%202.8%20HP%20edit.jpg
Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
purevl - There is a guy in my town the uses EFI live. His website is LS1powertuning.com I've good things about it, and I was just wondering what your input was. The guys said he was going to be receiving the latest updates soon and would be able to tune my car with it as well.
Originally Posted by Mase
I think your dyno numbers are ok. People who dyno stock at 220HP are done on a bad dyno.
Here's a Stage 2 with a 2.79" pulley
http://www.damachining.ca/S2%202.8%20HP%20edit.jpg
Here's a Stage 2 with a 2.79" pulley
http://www.damachining.ca/S2%202.8%20HP%20edit.jpg
I don't think you can make any claims about how stage 2 did unless you have a baseline.
As a car guy with a bad ass Camaro, and a "bunch" of dyno experience, you should know that eh?
And how did it feel on the street?
Any different?
I realize that your butt dyno has a different calibration than 99.9% of the kids here, but I would have thought you would have noticed something. Personally, I think the SS/SC is slow.....and I own one.
Someone asked what were the weather conditions?
The dyno compensates for the weather conditions and gives corrected data. Unless the dyno operator forgets to enter the data, or doesn't have the data to enter.
I have only been on an engine dyno, but I would assume that a good chassis dyno measures the air density, temp, baromoter and humidity automatically and comes up with the correction.
Did you ever read about the Dyno Jet? The inventor couldn't make it read right, so he added his own fudge factor to get the numbers to come out. Do a little research. I believe it was either Hot Rod or Car Craft who did a nice article on it.
In other words, these things spit out numbers. May or may not be absolute. But are certainly good at measuring change. Provided the operator knows what he is doing.
Me thinks folks get too caught up in numbers at the front wheels.
R
As a car guy with a bad ass Camaro, and a "bunch" of dyno experience, you should know that eh?
And how did it feel on the street?
Any different?
I realize that your butt dyno has a different calibration than 99.9% of the kids here, but I would have thought you would have noticed something. Personally, I think the SS/SC is slow.....and I own one.
Someone asked what were the weather conditions?
The dyno compensates for the weather conditions and gives corrected data. Unless the dyno operator forgets to enter the data, or doesn't have the data to enter.
I have only been on an engine dyno, but I would assume that a good chassis dyno measures the air density, temp, baromoter and humidity automatically and comes up with the correction.
Did you ever read about the Dyno Jet? The inventor couldn't make it read right, so he added his own fudge factor to get the numbers to come out. Do a little research. I believe it was either Hot Rod or Car Craft who did a nice article on it.
In other words, these things spit out numbers. May or may not be absolute. But are certainly good at measuring change. Provided the operator knows what he is doing.
Me thinks folks get too caught up in numbers at the front wheels.
R
Originally Posted by RonSS
I don't think you can make any claims about how stage 2 did unless you have a baseline.
As a car guy with a bad ass Camaro, and a "bunch" of dyno experience, you should know that eh?
And how did it feel on the street?
Any different?
I realize that your butt dyno has a different calibration than 99.9% of the kids here, but I would have thought you would have noticed something. Personally, I think the SS/SC is slow.....and I own one.
Someone asked what were the weather conditions?
The dyno compensates for the weather conditions and gives corrected data. Unless the dyno operator forgets to enter the data, or doesn't have the data to enter.
I have only been on an engine dyno, but I would assume that a good chassis dyno measures the air density, temp, baromoter and humidity automatically and comes up with the correction.
Did you ever read about the Dyno Jet? The inventor couldn't make it read right, so he added his own fudge factor to get the numbers to come out. Do a little research. I believe it was either Hot Rod or Car Craft who did a nice article on it.
In other words, these things spit out numbers. May or may not be absolute. But are certainly good at measuring change. Provided the operator knows what he is doing.
Me thinks folks get too caught up in numbers at the front wheels.
R
As a car guy with a bad ass Camaro, and a "bunch" of dyno experience, you should know that eh?
And how did it feel on the street?
Any different?
I realize that your butt dyno has a different calibration than 99.9% of the kids here, but I would have thought you would have noticed something. Personally, I think the SS/SC is slow.....and I own one.
Someone asked what were the weather conditions?
The dyno compensates for the weather conditions and gives corrected data. Unless the dyno operator forgets to enter the data, or doesn't have the data to enter.
I have only been on an engine dyno, but I would assume that a good chassis dyno measures the air density, temp, baromoter and humidity automatically and comes up with the correction.
Did you ever read about the Dyno Jet? The inventor couldn't make it read right, so he added his own fudge factor to get the numbers to come out. Do a little research. I believe it was either Hot Rod or Car Craft who did a nice article on it.
In other words, these things spit out numbers. May or may not be absolute. But are certainly good at measuring change. Provided the operator knows what he is doing.
Me thinks folks get too caught up in numbers at the front wheels.
R
I run the dynojet myself when i dyno my cars. You can easily add in any weather you want and even play with the da and i can make my cobalt 30hp more then everyone elses if i feel like it. Unfortuantely i like real numbers, my post was more sarcasm about all the cars here putting down 220 bone stock but yet i can barely do it with a stage 2 modded car.
As for the butt dyno...this thing was completly different on the street, car woke right up. But when gm themselves claim its a 60hp kit...i like to get what i paid for.
THe day i dynoed this car i just got done dynoing 20 camaros and gtos...you have never been on a chassis dyno and your giving me advice about one? Thanks
The GM Stage 2 kit is only rated for 241hp at the flywheel. 205-241 is only 36hp not 60 like you stated. Just trying to make sure you have the correct info, not trying to start a fight here, as I'm sure you competent about cars with the other animal you own!


