I am also in the market for a stage 2 kit or to piece it together(love income tax). What is in everyones opinion the biggest bang for the buck? And if It is better to piece it together, get what parts from which stores? Any other input would be much appreciated.

 

Look up ZZP and OTTP

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...nstall-242186/

here is my build thread from start to finnish with the dyno run at the end. It's a mix of parts from OTTP and ZZP, only thing I would do different now is a ZZP intake.

 

You have to tear it down like that to install the stage 2 kit? I didnt think it was that in depth. I will look at more of the build later when I have more time(have to go on a chevy cruise). And How did you get it to the dyno/tuner? Trailer it?

 

they send a pcm with the kit iirc. Its abit time consuming (maybe a full weekend if taking your time) but its honestly not that hard to do.

 

It was 4 days of work to get the stage 2 done, I took my time though and did everything right. I spent about 8 hours the first 2 days. A few snags are what slowed me down though, exhaust bolts and routing the option b tubing. i had to tear it down like that to get the dual pass on and you have to pull the supercharger to swap pulleys.

 

zzperformance # 60 injectors with harness = 250
2.8 pulley with adaptor = 100? i ebayd my pulley for 50 new
custom tune 200
zzperformance S3 h.e =250 shipped

total price 800 run low injector duty cycles,(room for more mods) and low ait's

then if you want a wideband, add that on, id stay away from AEM, just bnecause i had mine for a year and it chooses when it wants to work i got my guage pod from cobalt-addiction.com

OR go with the gmp stage 2
installed i payed 950, you get #42 injectors that are maxxed out on injector duty with the included pulley , after 2 pulls your aits are screamin for u to stop

the ottp kit will prob work too, IMO it dont include the best pieces avaliable tho, and it comes with a generic tune, it may be worth the few extra hundred to get the best stuff avaliable so you dont have to upgrade

i can pop the hood and touch the h.e with confidence after i get done runnin the p-ss outta er, before i was afraid to touch it

 

ssmatters, do this .




zzp stage three, except the tune since id be tuning you (RIGHT)?

SIEMENS 60LBS INJECOTRS WITH HARNESS,
id go down to a 2.7 and if you have meth go to a 2.6 or 2.5 and i can change your rev limit so you wouldnt over rev the m62,
get the s3 heat exchanger.
and the upgraded stg2 gm belt
and step two colder iridiumsngk plugs.
and of course the dual pass

 

thank you for adding the odds n ends i forgot, lol looked right past plugs, belt n stuf

 

its cool... When someone orders the stage three it includes all but has options to others.

 

piece it together and get a custom tune!! just got to keep lookin' for good prices.

 

i wouldnt go lower than a 2.7... imo

 

i tryed calling zzp for the stage 2 for the 2.4L auto they will not answer there phones i guess they dont like money so now i'm just going to get a better tune from vinces.

 

They only ever answered the phone 3 times that I called out of probably 20, good luck getting ahold of them.

 

Puttng a small ass pulley doesnt matter as long as you have supporting mods and if you dont want to strain the sc, care for less rev like say 6300-6500, instead of the original tuned lsj to 7000-72000 rev limit

 

6500rpm is the absolute lowest I would set my rev limiter to on an SS/SC.

The nice thing about reving out to say 7,000-7250 rpm on the LSJ is it will put you back in your powerband when you shift. Most SS/SC's make peak torque around 4500-5000 rpm. If you were to only rev to 6300 rpm you would fall out of your power band due to how the SS/SC is geared. Not to mention most LSJ's make peak power around 6600-6750 rpm. You would never be reaching the full potential of the car.

We dont make the low end grunt you SS/TC guys make. We need to take advantage of our gearing (kind of like Honda's).

 

You must have had your wideband hooked up wrong or it was faulty. Did you contact AEM? I had the AEM UEGO wideband in my balt and now i have another one in my truck. Both have been working great.

Also i dont mean to bash vendors. But Cobalt-Addiction overcharges on their products and they take their sweet ass time to ship it. I honesly dont even know how/why they are still a vendor on here.

 

Well it looks like I will try to piece together my stage kit. All of this information is amazingly helpful.

The only problem I see is when and where and how to install the stage kit/items. I have been told you can't drive the car untill it is tuned and I have no clue how to get it to a shop. Plus it is my dd and only running car atm so I have to figure out a way to get it to the tuner. And cobaltss3 I would like to work with you because you are helpful and seem to know what you are talking about but I just have to figure out how I am going to go about the tune/install since you will be so far away.

 

Wut i meant about rev is to keep the s.c from over reving whwn u have a small pulley if u dont care **** go to 7200-7500 lol

 

I drove my car for 2 weeks without any tune at all. You just have to have self control and keep your foot out of it/drive it like a granny and you will be fine. It was so nice to drive the **** out of it after my tune, made me realize how much power it actually added.

 

I did not mean go slap a 2.6" or 2.5" pulley and go rev the **** out of it

I was trying to get the point across that useable power is much more important than trying to compensate for a super small pulley by lowering the rev limit. Setting the rev limit on an SS/SC below 6500rpm will really take the car out of it's power band when you go on to the next gear.

What you want to do (if you're worried about over spinning) is determine where the blower will reach it's max rpm's due to pulley ratio, and set the limit there. For the most part you will be shifting before the limiter, so no worries. Not to mention the small amount of time the blower is maxed (if at all) will not hurt anything (this has been discussed before).

Say you had your limiter set for 6300rpm. You would be shifting before that to avoid the limiter (obviously) which in reality would be more like short shifting on the SS/SC. The car wouldnt be any faster than a car with a larger pulley that revs out further. It would prob be a good deal slower actually.

See what I'm getting at man??

I understand you were looking at being safe/reliable, but that can still be achieved through testing/logging the setup (which I know that you understand).

 

man you know me, im not A IDIOT, i wasnt at all being rude to you in my previous post, lol............. I was just saying the obvious which i knew you knew but anywho, hows people lsjs doing.

 

im scared to go below 2.8 ha

 

lmao if you have a dts you a good tune youll be fine. As long as you have supposrting mods and keep a EYE on those iat2s and kr. I had a m62 ported and polished by me tuned by me with a 2.6 on it pushing 18lbs for two and a half years, and i had noooooo issue. And same with every one i have tuned. ive never blown a balt or **** any car period......... I have am62 with a 2.7 meth and he races every where he goes, and i gave him a afr of 12.3 top end, and bottom end of 11.5. hes been tuned for 1 year and a half, and only issue he has had was the belt lmao

 

2.8 is what ive been on for a while.. i just dropped to a 2.7 after adding cooling mods. ive read in multiple places that going below 2.7 on a sc is pointless and just heatsoaks ur ride.