dont have a reliable tuner.
i dont have hpt.
my car pulls hard with zero issues now, i had a custom tune, and i was knocking all over, iat2s were odd, a/f was horrible at times.

Im happy with my setup now, thnx.

 

but it i'll show you ipw... so you can still see that your fucked

yeah i know what you mean i went from a custom zzp tune to stage three and stage three was deff more aggressive timing map and pulled way harder, with zero knock as well, but get a good tuner and the car will really come to life

 

tiz true!

 

It is Gmpp stage 3 ( s3 ).

I am running a 2.8 pulley and have had zero problems with it. It has been on for most of the cars life. It was on when I was stage 2, and is still on now that I am stage 3. No issues and I have like 36K on the odomiter.

 

so for the guys running nitrous with stage 3
are the stock plugs still good enough(0.35) gap?

 

Let me ask this: does anyone know what the difference is between the canned stage 2 tune and the stage 3 tune (that they say is "to accommodate the smaller pulley") what do they change? HPT can't read or write to stage 3 pcms to my knowledge. It's like 3mm difference...so the tunes have to be pretty damn close.

I'm thinking distillion would have similar success with the canned stage 2 tune right?

 

from what i saw by monitoring things with a areoforce, is that the timing is way more aggresive (up to 23*) and AFR was much leaner than stage 2 (low low 12's instead of high 10's) giving the injectors some room for the spray... and im sure the ve/pe tables are accomadated for the smaller pulley, not much your right there but the others there was quite a difference


we need two guys with similare mods (but one with stage 2 tune and the other with stage 3 no 100oct) to run eachother from a 40 roll and see who pulls, i garentee the stage three will pull at least 1-2 cars proly more

 

i had stage 2 when it first came out
there is a considerable difference.
Im just wondering if i should go back with teh stock plugs but am wondering how they will hold when i spray.

 

hey mike are you going to use your stock airbox or your cia.I think maybe try your stock plugs and see what happens first without spray and then with spray.I will have mine setup in a couple of weeks.I have clutch, pistons, rings, headstuds, and my nitrious to get installed.Hey you have any idea of what we should run at the track?

 

im runnin a 3 inch intake.
i have internals too but gonna hold off on the installation for now.
i have a fresh set of ngk bkr7es
i might throw those in using a similar gap to stock.
where are you getting everything installed frost?

 

At my work there is a very talented mechanic that does work on automobiles on the side.He lives in erin his name is charlie.He has done a whole bunch of work for me,and at very resonable rates.He usually does big v8s but he likes working with this little 4.

 

How easy is it to install/uninstall the stage 3 pcm? in a month or 2 the plan is to get meth and hptuners and a 2.9, but maybe I should just buy stage 3 and consider nitrous later? I want to keep my car on warranty, but if its easy to take out the pcm, my dealer might not care about the puller beacuse its a gm part (I know the owner of the local dealer in Pet and I allways stop by just to chat with the service manager back home when I'm in NB).

For n2o, if I had stage 3 w/ its nitrous algorithm, would that mean I can just order the bottle, lines and nozzle and not need the plug-n-play controller?(I'm thinking a zex kit) Zex has an intake filter with a nitrous nozzle in it so turning that back to stock would be as easy as swapping back in a cone filter.

 

hmmm.... after being gone all this time i see i have missed alot

 

do you have to have stage 2 to run stage 3

 

Yes you have to have S2 IN ORDER TO HAVE S3 because S3 uses the S2 hub for the pulley that is included in S3


After doing the swap of the ECu more then a handful of times .All you need is a 13mil for the negative bolt in the trunk and a flat head screw driver to pop the tabs on the ECU wiring harness and the whole swap takes about 5-10 minutes .

As far as the N2o setup you need to buy the dry shot kit from dyno tune and it comes with the bottle lines and electrical swtich or arm switch that you need to hook up the 50 shot ECU. When you activate the ARM switch the ECU detects that nitrous is ready to go and the ECU does the rest of the work for you by spraying after 3500 rpm and shutting down 500 rpm before redline.

 

I bought a zex kit. (Dry)
as long as you have arm switch and the proper wiring setup your good.

Im just wondering if people are running the stock plugs when they are spraying.

 

Hey mike do you have your spray hooked up yet?I changed back to my stock plugs yesterday after noticeing some bogging and hesitation.Once the stock plugs were in everything went bact to normal and the car pulled very hard again.I think gm stage kits are all designed around the stock plugs etc,if not I am sure they would have included or recommened the one step colder plugs in thier kits.

 

its not hooked up yet but i want to avoid issues when it is.
if i have to put in the stock plugs i will.
what was the gap set at frost?
and im assuming your spraying?

 

If anyone is looking to try out stage 3, I have the pcm for sale!

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/parts-66/fs-gm-stage-3-pcm-06-07-cobalts-126048/

 

I'm running stock plugs. It ran like crap (bogging, hesitation) with the 1 step colder plugs.

GM recommends to change the exhaust manifold with a high flow manifold and a free flowing exhaust. You'll find this in the instruction sheet when you purchase a stage 3 kit. There is no mention there that you need to change plugs.

 

I also switched back to stock plugs, car has run smooth since. Also, just some FYI, I monitored my Stg3 pcm with a Tech 2, all emissions monitors ran and passed. This means in, NJ, you should pass inspection. I have seen this question pop up alot about passing inspection. In NJ, you need NO ses light on and all emisions monitors to pass. You are allowed 1 to be incomplete/not run and still pass.

 

sweet
well i guess ill throw stock plugs in for peace of mind.
I believe the stock gap is .034 so ill set it to that.
Thnx guys.

 

I thought the stock gap was like .040.....maybe work your way down from there?? This is what I have read here I think....

 

Stock gap is .043-.033 in. GM Doc ID #1408393, Ignition System Specs.

 

hrm
ok.
new plugs from GM gapped at .040 sitting right beside me.
my friends 07ss, his plugs are at 0.34 from the factory.

what should mine be at?
remember im running a 2.85 rather than the 2.99