No one has been able to disprove the 10% performance results we guarantee on our header.

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Header Theory doesn't work for Supercharged applications the same way so everyone can stop assuming that a tri-Y or long tube header will produce better results. While the shorty isn't the best length for a supercharged header neither is 30" inches of primaries.
Bottom line is that most of the performance in a supercharged header is at the point of exhaust convergence and the collector design alone can be the difference between a 5% and 10-20% increase in power over stock.

 

Just to interject a small comment. I know sometimes you can find a website that advertises a low price on X product, but you need to be cautious because it could be to good to be true.

Not saying that texas-speed is that kind of website, but someone ppl offer great prices to get you to buy, but they can also take your money and dissappear.

So when deciding what what you should buy for your car you should take into account the reputation of the company and how they have dealt with customer in the past. Because that extra $100 may be worth not having to be hassled with an inferior product or bad customer services.

 

I understand what your saying but texas-speed is a well know speed shop in the ls1 world and have some of the best customer service around. I have bought quite a few items from them in the past for my Trans Am.

I do agree otherwise for other shops that may be there just for the money.

 

Yeah I am not saying at ALL that texas-speed is a bad place, but I am saying that on the Internet as a whole, that you can almost always find a pages that has X product for less.

 

and this is the reason why TOG told me he wanted someone to test his product out. there's no worrying about "disproving" his product, it's been tested by multiple people that have no affiliation with him

why don't you send me your header and i'll test it out and send it back we'll see how well the 20hp gains work with people that don't play dyno tricks.

 

also on the price guys, you are forgetting that the header is coming with silver ceramic coating. it's not the hunk of metal with high-temp paint like i put on my car for the tests

 

I wouldn't worry about the price or defending it, selfinfliction.

I have yet to see a thread on this board talking about some new product for our cars that doesn't include the mandatory post whining about how much it costs.

 

yeah i gess that's true lol

 

for those that are bashing the price, wait till you see the finished product before opening your mouth to speak, youll be opening your mouth in awe when you actually see it. 10 whp on a completly stock car is not a bad gain. Just think what you will be getting when you add PSI's pulley kit. I guarantee you that if someone with that pulley kit installs one of these headers, it will be VASTLY more than 10 whp. For a stock car, this is a pretty good result and a few more horses should be picked up with the DP. For a complete exhaust, youre looking at about $1000 (TOG + AA). That is not bad at all. Sure, if you get your piping done else where at a local shop, itll be way less, but for a bolt on mandrel bent exhaust, $1000 is a pretty damn good price.

 

Zinner, I recall that you have a 3" exhaust on your car. Have you had it dynoed? as this would give us an idea as to additional HP besides this header.
As for the price if we want to play we have to pay and that works for me

 

My SS/SC and another one I know was dynoed with the rear 2,25" section and stock muffler replaced by a 2,5" section and a Magnaflow 2,5" muffler. It gives a 10 WHP gain. I think Zinner got about the same improvement from the 3" catback. So I think the most restrictive piece on our exhaust system is the header ...

 

I wouldn't really call it whining. More like a note of the fact that alot of items for the SS/SC are a complete rip-offs.

My SLP L/T's were $899 and were made from 409 SS and coated inside and out.

I don't care who sells it or who makes it $400+ for a single header is BS.

It might be worth that much if it is made from 304 stainless & coated in/out. Then again 10HP isn't worth $400 bucks anyway.

 

hey selfinfliction. can you explain a bit how you went with the install? did you have the car up on anything (i notice you said you didn't use a lift.)

 

TOG headers are coated inside and out, and are also backed by a lifetime warranty. Well worth the money.

 

I think $400 for a header for a domestic car is pretty reasonable. To be honest I was actually expecting it to be higher, like $500. Now if you had a Civic that would be a different story, you can get a header for like $200, a good one too! Stuff for imports are a lot less expensive than stuff for our domestic sports cars. As far as the $400, I would spend the money for the header. Even if you get a cat-back exhaust your exhaust is still bottlenecked at the header so if you open everything up like selfinfliction said everything flows more freely and also think of all the performance parts that we will be adding to our cars soon. Having the header will make it that much easier to make more power. So in the end if you want performance for our domestic car then we are gonna have to pay a little more. If you don't like the idea then go buy a Honda Civic

 

only thing i used was two jackstands. the only time i got underneath the car to remove the manifold was to unhook the downpipe. all of the bolts are easily accessible from the top on the passenger's side. it took me a little while to get everything going but it was much easier than expected.

 

this looks like a great mod, look how much more power its making lower in the rpm range. its only 10+ more peak hp but its more like 15 hp through most of your pull. even 20 more at some parts, dont start thinking like honda guys, there is more to performacne than peak hp. this is why we need to see dynos people. any chance of this being 50 state legal (sorry i live in CA)?

 

I thought 206/hp 185/tq was a little high for a mustang dyno, aren't most ppl getting around 190-195 hp 170/tq on these dynos?

 

selfinfliction, I have a question and seeing as you've done this and been under your car I think you can help. Please. I hear about a downpipe\cat and then I hear about a cat back exhaust. Are people simply moving the position of their cat because I am thinking that there only needs to be one cat correct???

 

The DP is just the piece from the header to the cat, then its the cat, then the cat back is the piping after the cat.

 

ok, gonna ask again, what happened to the stainless steel....?

That is a bit disappointing...Mild steel and cat converters dont mix well due to the wonderful h2o that is made, so the non-ss downpipe will that be coated as well?
BTW, looking at the people with 3" cat back they WILL dyno better with the header, downpipe and 3" exhaust due to the loss of the restriction of the header and the DP
Whatever you do TOG use a 200 cell Metal Substrate cat PLEASE! no crappy ceramic bricks

 

Good gain for a shorty header on a stock car. Remember its 10WHP like stuffy said. Take the drive train loss to figure out what it would be at the crank,.

 

Yeah I am also pretty disappointed it's not stainless steel as well. I know for those of us with a stainless steel catback putting anything but stainless steel in for headers/downpipe doesn't seem that hot.

 

$420 for the header sounds good but $295 for the downpipe and cat sound somewhat expensive. Couldn't we buy a 3" cat for about $80-$100 and put together our own downpipe?

 

yes you could, but for the people in cali emissions is important. TOGs is 50 state legal and so is their cat.