*boostinss*

Hey guys i snapped a axel 1 week ago and ordered zzp stage 1 axels. Well i got them in the mail yesterday and just put the one in that i snapped in and left the other stock one in. ok well i want to know what kind of gear oil to use because i want to change it since im goin to have more drain out when i put the other one in. and also i have a quick question is it possible that i damaged my tranny when i snapped my axel? because when i put the new axel in i went to drive it and first and second gear were so hard to get in to. i mean i really had to force the shifter in those 2 gears but every other gear was fine. but after like 20 min of driven it stopped doin it and was fine. its still fine now but it just has me scared. any info will be really apprecitiated. Thanks guys

crazysteve

I would only use the gm syn trans fluid for your trans.....and you might have damaged the first/second gear syncro that would be my guess.

*boostinss*

Ok thanks but the only weird thing is that it works perfictly fine now. so idk could it be that my car was sitting for 5 days? idk

Winkdogydog101

hey ok lemme chim in here if your under warranty then go with gm fluid if not got with 75w-90 mobil 1 or royal purple. i believe its gl is what they rate protection levels at and saturn/gm fluid is gl3 and mobil and royal purple are gl 5+. I have personaly changed and had a great shifting change so have many other people.

second if your snaping axels that really has nothing to do with your gear oil. that has to do 90% with wheel hop or rotational mass. second depending on miles and how hard you are on your clutch it might be a clutch problem vs a oil problem but id do gear oil just to see before i bought a clutch =) but then if it is your gunna need to replace the oil again =(

ff_drift_lol

ok ok listen carefully. if you are g85 with limited slip you have an f35 transmission.

be very specific with what trans fluid you get
saab #9120541

or gm #21018899

capacity is 1.8l

I would reccomend doing a FLUSH. mixing old and new fluids will throw off the viscosity and such and cause you problems.

remove driver side wheel, you will see 2 plugs on the differential. the one to the top right is the check plug. it's a 6mm hex nut. it's a bitch because if your strut is still attached you'll need to use a few extensions or a swivel extension. getting torque on that much extension sucks. anyway, pull out the check, then set up a pan. drain from the drain plug, cycle through gears once while the car is off to shake out the remaining fluid. replace the drain plug with a new plug. not 100% necessary, but the service manual says so. I would use RTV copper (orange) or loc-tite blue if you re-use the plug. torque the drain plug to (whatever specs the manual where's maven when you need him lol) just be careful it is aluminum.
fill from the check plug, it is "rumored" that there's a fill plug but I think it's under the driver side trans mount I haven't found it lol. I rigged a nipple with a length of hose to the bottle cap and used a 1/2" drill bit to tap the cap for the fitting/hose and it all worked great but you gotta figure out a way to efficiently get the trans fluid from the bottle to the hole. there is also a pump we use at the shop if you have that use it, it saves a lot of mess. make sure the car is somewhat level and when the fluid starts leaking out the hole (after filling with 1.5 liters) then you are good to plug it up and go. I wish I could give a proper service procedure, but I am at home where I do not have alldata or mitchell 1!



on the other hand, damage to your trans well you could have cracked the bellhousing, the casing itself, trans mounts, engine mount, intermediate shaft bearing/mount and you could have "welded" your int. shaft/driver side axle into the splines of your diff. just have a looksie. I would be mostly concerned with the half shaft mount:
what I mean by welded splines is this: bad.

Maven

iTrader: (1)

If you live in Pennsulavania and drive year round the ONLY fluid you should use is the GM fluids, that are specified for the F35.

Mobil1 and Royal Purple are heavily friction modified gear oils and arent the best choice. Redline 75w90NS is the closest youll get to the stock fluid in the aftermarket. Redline MTL is very close to the fluid the TCs use. Ive never used the MTL.

Dennisscars

Now here's a paradoxical question.. When there is no more Saturn will there still be Saturn oil? I change every other oil change, I figure there's a lot of Hp going through 1.8 litres.

This will majorly suck..

ff_drift_lol

saab will always carry it since they have more f35 trannies than gm. it's also a GM part number, not just strictly saturn. every oil change is a bit overkill, but hey why not

Maven

iTrader: (1)

Yes, Saturn was probably the smallest user of this fluid, its just that they used it before chevy is probably the reason its Saturn branded.

Every other oil change is a waste of time money and lube. I would say 20kmiles is better if you want to over maintain it. Remember GM says its good forever under normal conditon and 50k under severe.

Dennisscars

I agree if I was using "normally" but don't think GM was expecting to see 57 track days in two and half years..

Now let's just hope that GM is on this side of the Pacific this time next year..

*boostinss*

They only thing is it already has royal purple in it. So would it be bad to change back to the gm tranny fluid? the only reason im doin a change is because i still have to put the other axle in and i figured i should do a change because it wount hurt