No,

people use them but the coolant jacket depths are different on the 2.2 and 2.0, so they will work but are not ideal.

 

ok i have got to come back and say that you were 1000% right, when we tore down the motor after it cracked the sleeve, all the bearings were completely shot. i was lucky that the crank and rods were ok...

 

Hungryhip...I haz kwestshun for you. Do you recal talking to a guy at some meet or something with a light blue 06 GTO? His name is mike (can remember his last name) and he is from lancaster. His GTO has some kind of custom wheels on it, and he has a 50trim talon as well. Anyways, back in the summer he was telling me about this orange cobalt with the level 5 hahn kit out around his area. He said he talked to you for a bit at a meet or a cruise or something and I thought that it had to be you. This ringin any bells?

 

honestly it doesent ring a bell. but it has to be me cause im the only one in cali with hahn 5,

the talon with 50 rings a bell, ask him if i beat him at the street races when i was supercharged?

i think he was the white one (i beat three of em that night, he was the quickest)

im down to run his gto!!!

but whats weird is, i havent been out to the races since i have been turbo, i just drive with me friends and then set up a race then go get my car. so i wonder how the hell everyone in this valley is slowly learning my mods.... im baffled that he would know im hahn lvl 5, that means that town has been talking about me... grrrrreat now i have to race everyone, lol

 

figured as much, remember motor still was spinning at rpm and pumping anti freeze through the system.

I see you made the same move as me, cept I'm selling the car whenever anyone has cash lol.

ain't it a bitch

 

actually i decided to go full build instead my block has been at ray bates enginerring its already sleeved were just waiting on bearings

 

well then, very nice..... guess I shoulda read more lol.

good luck with the new build man, shoulda hit up rod (victoryredss) he had a sleeved block already done modified with 1/2 head studs and main studs.

 

i actually tried, but then found out the 2.2 darton sleeves in a 2.0 block which is a big nono darton will not warranty ****, so i decided not to

went with ray got nbs for 225 (he makes em for gmr)
1450hp sleeves installed for 1100


honestly the price went down the availability and strength went up compared to darton...

oh yeah mine is main studded as well ******* 360 bucks for 20 studs...

 

his was done by bates also actually, but that's a damn good deal. Can't wait to see what one of these things does with a really built motor. should be easy 500whp on @30psi

 

i couldent get ahold of him to even find out, i tried, no response.



do you think my turbo will start shitin on itself around 450?

ohh and ray told me not to touch the head till over 600bhp as far as p&p i thought that was really odd but didnt question the master lol

he was saying till you get to 600 you can just keep cramming air in without a problem, he turned down my money for P&P and said i wont need it for my goal (500whp) ??? im still confused on that one

he also said the rods and crank are good to that as long as the mains are studded, then it wont pinch the bearings at 500+

 

odd, gm ports the exhaust side over 300hp.... hey but the man knows his **** I guess. I would try and get some exhaust port work done, but you'll be losing more low end. the S20g should be good to almost 500whp I would think, but you aren't going to get that on the stock cams, well without cramming a retarded amount of boost in there.

 

we will see, i would give up a few hp for dd and nice idle

maybe that why he said it wasent needed, my exhaust is already hand ported. we were talking about cnc. maybe he thinks im fine cause i opened up the exh outlets to the size of the intake ones.

did it to perfect specs with a bore gauge

anyways it should be interesting build, i also have my clutch getting reworked at kennedy for a one off custom disc with stock pressure plate and my flywheel lightned 3lbs (told them to go conservative)

the disk is a 336mm 6 puck unsprung hub. (should have great drivability with modified stock pressure plate)

im installing a stage 2 on a redline straight trade i jumped on that ****!!! he and his friend are owners of ACT they are local to me, mostly all there stuff is kennedy made i quess

 

damn, good **** on the clutch man.
I forgot you ported the head a bit, so you should be fine, intake side doesn't need to be touched for the power you'll be making. I would try and get some cams though, as the stock ones pretty much fall off at 6300 rpm or so.

 

6300 really? so whats best to shift at considering i see full boost to 24psi @ 4000

i do feel it fall over at 7-7200ish

 

I know my car used to fall on it's face after 6300 rpm on the stock head, with the cams and ported head it didn't fall off until after 8600 rpm (yeah I did it lol).

 

Zoomer doesnt think so

 

lol yeah here;'s the log (look at the name of the link lol).



old motor dyno video to 7200 rpm:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=is7NKxxezYE
new motor dyno to 8200, 9500, 8500 rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFI3KICvQKw
tell me that isn't 9500 rpm lol

mind you that's a 3rd gear pull

 

Paul that is just rediculous!

Hunryhip his talon is black. He never raced you but he said he talked to you on a cruise or something once when he was in his GTO. And you wouldnt wanna race his goat...its 100% stock except the rims lol wouldnt be worth your gas. His talon put down 320whp on the old 20G, not sure about on the new 50trm, but either way you would still walk him. He is a cool guy though, ill tell him to keep his eyes open for you since you live in the same area.

 

I would definitely assume that he is telling you that you don't need a p&p since you already got the exhaust side done by hand. Wouldn't make sense otherwise.

 

i agree. i told him that i was only looking for 400whp but would maybe push it as far as 450-500 on race gas. and he said since i drive it daily to just keep the stock cams and the head would get me to my goal of 400 at least.


paul when you were making 411 that was on stock cams? did you have the adjustable cam gears yet or was that when you made 456 or what ever i dont remember off hand?

do you have a dyno sheet you can post of when it went to 9500?

 

To my understanding Chris only gasket matched the exhaust side. The rest wasn't touched... could be wrong

 

as far as porting goes the outlets were opened up like you said, and the bowl and valve stem area were just smoothed with rolled sand paper bits. i didn't wanna remove to much material without a flow bench.

 

dyno sheet is posted above, got it up to 444whp 410wtq on the stock cams.

 

i think this might get me there safley?

heres pics of that clutch i was telling you about, they also took .05 out of the flywheel surface for a little slip during NLS's to save the tranny then they also took 3.5 lbs out of the flywheel on the motor side towards the outer most portion to eliminate some rotating mass but still retain drivability with the unsprung hub copper puck full race disk

he said he basically set it up to slip for a mili sec to put some heat in the disk then it will hit. instead of super tough pressure plate and a medium compound disc which gives harsh engagement such as the exedy hyper single.

the disk is a life long disc with replaceable pucks, but he recommended i beat the **** out of the disc and he guarantees it forever. right of the bat he wants me to "lap it in" he said to "rev the **** out of it and slip the clutch alot, put some heat in it" lol he said he usually ties em to a pole in the shop and just drags the clutch about half throttle half clutch for a few secs at a time and that ensures the whole disc makes contact with the surface area as opposed to just the edges of the puck which tend to be higher.

i have to break the motor in first so he said just ride the clutch alot every time i take off till the motor broke in then do the above procedure.

 

^^^^SICK....those sleeves rock