UPS Finally got here with..
I put the stage 2 belt on alone in about 15 min, I jacked the passanger side up, removed the splash guard in the wheel well, take a 9/16 and tap it onto the tensioner with a hammer (it wont slip off like the 15mm, 9/16 is actually about equal to 14mm) then line everything up except for the alt and tensioner, compress the tensioner, and slip the belt around.
hahaha yea the tensioner i got right now the nub isn't rounded off like my stock one was so it's a lil easier but my palm would be sore for days after doing it with either
too bad my pulleyboys tool broke lol
too bad my pulleyboys tool broke lol
Just buy the pre made 50/50 at the store like this man said^. The more water you have in the mixture, the better the cooling. Straight will be quite useless. Dual pass is reccomended, I have OTTPs gen 4 h/e, Option B and dual pass and I'm on the GMS2 pulley. Overkill much?...possibly haha
With the socket or bit they give you in the kit . I used to swap pulleys all the time using the blue bolt's .
Crateenginedepot has a replacement bit but the socket is better if you have it laying around.
Crateenginedepot has a replacement bit but the socket is better if you have it laying around.
Well last night we finally put the belt on, was a bit of trouble but we did it.
Went to buy some E85 put it in and started the car, at first it smoked cause it still has normal gas in the tank but then it started running better
Doesn't run all that bad. I thought it would be idling all over the place since people say that with the can tune it tends to idle bad, but it idles fine.
We test drove it and everything's good except when you really step on it after it passes a certain amount of rpm it sounds all wierd and nasty, as if it has no more power, im thinking its the can tune.
I'm gonna get a dyno tune this coming week anyway though.
Went to buy some E85 put it in and started the car, at first it smoked cause it still has normal gas in the tank but then it started running better
Doesn't run all that bad. I thought it would be idling all over the place since people say that with the can tune it tends to idle bad, but it idles fine.
We test drove it and everything's good except when you really step on it after it passes a certain amount of rpm it sounds all wierd and nasty, as if it has no more power, im thinking its the can tune.
I'm gonna get a dyno tune this coming week anyway though.
It has the check engine light on but it has had it for iono a year? maybe 2? so I wouldn't know I'd have to take it to auto zone. Plugs are gapped at 0.35 <- got that off zzp's website. Crank relearn? IDK. I did have to do a crank relearn when I first dropped in my new engine.
If you plugs are gapped at .35 you got problems, its .035
People on here say to gap the plugs .032 but Ive always had the best luck at .035
Id go down to advance auto parts and scan the codes just to see whats there. I had codes I didnt even know about because my cel has been on since I swapped in the OTTP ecu (havent gotten a case relearn yet) I had a code for the bypass actuator, oops! I always had good luck with a .035
Id go down to advance auto parts and scan the codes just to see whats there. I had codes I didnt even know about because my cel has been on since I swapped in the OTTP ecu (havent gotten a case relearn yet) I had a code for the bypass actuator, oops! I always had good luck with a .035


