Ya I think so too. i will take a look but it's damn hard to see way back there.

 

if the noise wasent there before you put that worthless header on then you dident do something right on your install

 

Wow that is so helpful! Thanks so much for your help. You don't think that crossed my mind. It's changing a valve cover and header not to hard to do.

You know "mrbelvedere", I don't think I have ever read a post by you where you didn't come across as a total dink bag. And who taught you to spell. Have a great day (although in your case I think thats impossible)!

 

if that thought had crossed your mind then why make a thread about it instead of fixing it
thank you for the compliment

 

So after getting a mechanics stethescope I listened to the entire engine top to bottom and the sound I hear cannot be heard through the stethescope the inside of the motor sounds fine so I am leaning towards a sound from the outside maybe belt or exhaust as its coming from the back so gotta look at it a bit more I think I will loosen off the header bolts and then retorque them see if that helps.

 

Sounds like a very small leak. If the noise goes away when it warms up it might be a crack on the header, or the gasket finally sealing when it expands.

 

Thats what i am thinking to.

 

He probably dropped a nut into the opening and now the valve is slamming into the piston. ROFL. JKJK

 

My car is doing the same thing it is an exhaust leak on your header. Which gasket did you use from header to cylinder head? Also follow the proper tourque sequence on the bolts.

 

I used the gasket from Bad Mab

 

I had better luck switching to a factory gasket seems alot of people had issues with the badmab gasket sealing.

 

sounds exactly like an exhaust leak near the head. did you clean the gasket surface, use a new gasket, and perform the proper torque sequence with the proper torque? Remember you should go from the inside out when sequencing the bolts. the clicking noise you hear is the valvetrain. when you can hear the valvetrain through the leak, that's how you know its close to the head. Also with cheap headers, they don't always have the best flatness on the flanges. You will probably want to go with a crushable gasket to compensate - not sure what comes with the badmab. If that still doesn't cut it, you could try doubling up the gaskets. I don't know anything about the quality of the header you got, but flatness of the header flange is a common problem.

 

That's most likely your problem. When you get it replaced make sure you get both oem gaskets, and make sure the one at the flange to your DP has a metal ring inside or that gasket will blow real fast also.


Same here, factory gaskets were the best. I re-used the DP flange gasket and bought a new one for the top.

That header is really not perfect, It's strong and cheap, just needs a little tweak to make it great.
It would be a better idea just to take the header to get machined flat instead of trying to mend it with double gaskets or a crushable one. At the end he might end up paying more for gaskets than what would cost to get it done right first.

 

Header gasket. When the nuts are not tightened down correctly you'll get a flappy sounding exhaust leak. Friend over torqued the stud in my head and now I'm missing a stud. Thus resulting in the **** exhaust leak on cold start up. Sounds just the same. Goes away upon warm up as metal expands when heated. Solution for you? Copperseal. And lots of it. It doesn't take that long to unbolt it and lather the gasket up.