zzp brfps boost reference fuel installed - Fuel Lab - w/o evap add on
#1
zzp brfps boost reference fuel installed - Fuel Lab - w/o evap add on
I haven't found any pics of the setup with the newer fuel lab regulator installed so I took some pics and had some questions.
ZZP's instructions are non existent, their site is horrible and the stuff on the forums is pretty weak. I know you have to have some know how to do this and hooking it up isnt the hard part. Its small things that bother me. They included this long 25 section of tubing that is hard line and kinks with the slightest adjustment. So I am not using it (think hard brake line) without a bender its impposible to work with.
I am using the evap tubing but without their 30 dollar upgrade (that should be included with the kit in the total price.
Things I love about the kit are that they do have the correct fittings for all things fuel side and if you buy the evap system add on to use the existing setup you can plug and play it... Almost.
The biggest thing I found difficutlt was the bracket that included cant be mounted to the body then the regulator mounted to it. Nor can the regulator be mounted to the bracket first then to the body. The only config is in the way of the bolt holes. This wont make sense unless you have the setup but I have pics below that I modified the bracket to mount 180 degrees off the original position with an angle grinder.
Here you can see the bracket cut off just below the third hole flipped 180 degrees. With the bracket having 3 holes spaced a certain way it will only go on with interference from the top portion of the regulator. It will not install without modifying it in my kit. If there is another way I would like to hear how you installed it as well.
Here is my modified bracket spun and using self tapping screws into the body of the car, Its very secure and out of the way, well above the rear axle.
I did not spend the extra bucks for the evap line conversion. I chose to get a piece of 1/4" vacuum line and run it from the regulator to the nipple on the hardline that the quick disconnect was on but I cut it off and used a hose clamp.
Line from filter in this pic is included from zzp.
Line to the gas tank is what is pulled from the fuel filter. Replace your filter while you are down here... Its 30 bucks for the wix and cheap clog insurance.
]
Here is my unmolested picture of my setup. There are many ways to install this but I kind of winged it. I figure zzp never went into detail since there are many ways to skin this cat. Just really wish it would have come with some type of explanation of the craptastic bracket install.
With this picture from zzp everything else is self explanatory. Just wondering how anyone can put the bracket on the regulator after the bracket is installed since the screws are inaccessible.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...MAG05201-1.jpg
Going to do the rest of the install at a later time for the line under the hood. Ran out of time today.
Thanks to derboy8 for the help tonight. We have to get some pics of the cars together sometime.
ZZP's instructions are non existent, their site is horrible and the stuff on the forums is pretty weak. I know you have to have some know how to do this and hooking it up isnt the hard part. Its small things that bother me. They included this long 25 section of tubing that is hard line and kinks with the slightest adjustment. So I am not using it (think hard brake line) without a bender its impposible to work with.
I am using the evap tubing but without their 30 dollar upgrade (that should be included with the kit in the total price.
Things I love about the kit are that they do have the correct fittings for all things fuel side and if you buy the evap system add on to use the existing setup you can plug and play it... Almost.
The biggest thing I found difficutlt was the bracket that included cant be mounted to the body then the regulator mounted to it. Nor can the regulator be mounted to the bracket first then to the body. The only config is in the way of the bolt holes. This wont make sense unless you have the setup but I have pics below that I modified the bracket to mount 180 degrees off the original position with an angle grinder.
Here you can see the bracket cut off just below the third hole flipped 180 degrees. With the bracket having 3 holes spaced a certain way it will only go on with interference from the top portion of the regulator. It will not install without modifying it in my kit. If there is another way I would like to hear how you installed it as well.
Here is my modified bracket spun and using self tapping screws into the body of the car, Its very secure and out of the way, well above the rear axle.
I did not spend the extra bucks for the evap line conversion. I chose to get a piece of 1/4" vacuum line and run it from the regulator to the nipple on the hardline that the quick disconnect was on but I cut it off and used a hose clamp.
Line from filter in this pic is included from zzp.
Line to the gas tank is what is pulled from the fuel filter. Replace your filter while you are down here... Its 30 bucks for the wix and cheap clog insurance.
]
Here is my unmolested picture of my setup. There are many ways to install this but I kind of winged it. I figure zzp never went into detail since there are many ways to skin this cat. Just really wish it would have come with some type of explanation of the craptastic bracket install.
With this picture from zzp everything else is self explanatory. Just wondering how anyone can put the bracket on the regulator after the bracket is installed since the screws are inaccessible.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...MAG05201-1.jpg
Going to do the rest of the install at a later time for the line under the hood. Ran out of time today.
Thanks to derboy8 for the help tonight. We have to get some pics of the cars together sometime.
Last edited by c130aviator; 06-01-2013 at 10:17 PM.
#2
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
It looks right to me...I don't know why zzp set it up like that, regulator location is shitty(sorry zzp)
Personally I would set it up like the OTTP kit, but its too late now.
When I did my setup, I looked for a long time, couldnt find much information; Then I just came to my senses and thought about it.
Best thing to do is get OTTP fuel filter(or equivalent), OTTP fuel rail adapter, fuelab regulator, some AN fittings, AN line and set it up like you want it.
Personally I would set it up like the OTTP kit, but its too late now.
When I did my setup, I looked for a long time, couldnt find much information; Then I just came to my senses and thought about it.
Best thing to do is get OTTP fuel filter(or equivalent), OTTP fuel rail adapter, fuelab regulator, some AN fittings, AN line and set it up like you want it.
#3
Ive had my setup for over a year, works fine.
The full return style is a wast of time in my opinion. I actually think it can affect performance on a supercharged car.
The full return style is a wast of time in my opinion. I actually think it can affect performance on a supercharged car.
#6
Simular to urs untill i used different lines to make it all mount better.
I have another idea for my duel intank setup im workin on also. This will come at a later time.
I have another idea for my duel intank setup im workin on also. This will come at a later time.
#8
The way I have it now there is no binding in any of the lines. I replaced my fuel filter with a wix one and its still easy to access. I can see that different lines would make this a better thought-out install but for what ZZP did here its a great setup (other than the bracket).
Those nylon lines are very durable but man you have to be careful or they can kink at tight turns.
Those nylon lines are very durable but man you have to be careful or they can kink at tight turns.
#10
#17
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
lolwut?
If anything; The fuel in the injectors will be the hottest, right on the back side of the pintle. With a constant flow of fuel, the fuel going to the tank will be warmer but the fuel at the injector will potentially be cooler.
The amount of flow from a dw300, with the addition of 14gph(will be 20-25 next week) of 50/50 meth will take care if any KR issues from hot fuel I have with the 2.6" tvs.
c130aviator:
As long as it works like it is designed, you are happy with it; Thats all that counts
Be careful with it tho, depending on the automotive safety/emission inspections your location has, When using the EVAP line from the purge valve back, you are technically disabling part of the federal emissions devices.
-They are talking about minimum $10K fines and 3years in federal pen for screwing around with diesels 05 and newer; ***** getting ridiculous.
#18
I haven't found any pics of the setup with the newer fuel lab regulator installed so I took some pics and had some questions.
ZZP's instructions are non existent, their site is horrible and the stuff on the forums is pretty weak. I know you have to have some know how to do this and hooking it up isnt the hard part. Its small things that bother me. They included this long 25 section of tubing that is hard line and kinks with the slightest adjustment. So I am not using it (think hard brake line) without a bender its impposible to work with.
I am using the evap tubing but without their 30 dollar upgrade (that should be included with the kit in the total price.
Things I love about the kit are that they do have the correct fittings for all things fuel side and if you buy the evap system add on to use the existing setup you can plug and play it... Almost.
The biggest thing I found difficutlt was the bracket that included cant be mounted to the body then the regulator mounted to it. Nor can the regulator be mounted to the bracket first then to the body. The only config is in the way of the bolt holes. This wont make sense unless you have the setup but I have pics below that I modified the bracket to mount 180 degrees off the original position with an angle grinder.
Here you can see the bracket cut off just below the third hole flipped 180 degrees. With the bracket having 3 holes spaced a certain way it will only go on with interference from the top portion of the regulator. It will not install without modifying it in my kit. If there is another way I would like to hear how you installed it as well.
Here is my modified bracket spun and using self tapping screws into the body of the car, Its very secure and out of the way, well above the rear axle.
I did not spend the extra bucks for the evap line conversion. I chose to get a piece of 1/4" vacuum line and run it from the regulator to the nipple on the hardline that the quick disconnect was on but I cut it off and used a hose clamp.
Line from filter in this pic is included from zzp.
Line to the gas tank is what is pulled from the fuel filter. Replace your filter while you are down here... Its 30 bucks for the wix and cheap clog insurance.
]
Here is my unmolested picture of my setup. There are many ways to install this but I kind of winged it. I figure zzp never went into detail since there are many ways to skin this cat. Just really wish it would have come with some type of explanation of the craptastic bracket install.
With this picture from zzp everything else is self explanatory. Just wondering how anyone can put the bracket on the regulator after the bracket is installed since the screws are inaccessible.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...MAG05201-1.jpg
Going to do the rest of the install at a later time for the line under the hood. Ran out of time today.
Thanks to derboy8 for the help tonight. We have to get some pics of the cars together sometime.
ZZP's instructions are non existent, their site is horrible and the stuff on the forums is pretty weak. I know you have to have some know how to do this and hooking it up isnt the hard part. Its small things that bother me. They included this long 25 section of tubing that is hard line and kinks with the slightest adjustment. So I am not using it (think hard brake line) without a bender its impposible to work with.
I am using the evap tubing but without their 30 dollar upgrade (that should be included with the kit in the total price.
Things I love about the kit are that they do have the correct fittings for all things fuel side and if you buy the evap system add on to use the existing setup you can plug and play it... Almost.
The biggest thing I found difficutlt was the bracket that included cant be mounted to the body then the regulator mounted to it. Nor can the regulator be mounted to the bracket first then to the body. The only config is in the way of the bolt holes. This wont make sense unless you have the setup but I have pics below that I modified the bracket to mount 180 degrees off the original position with an angle grinder.
Here you can see the bracket cut off just below the third hole flipped 180 degrees. With the bracket having 3 holes spaced a certain way it will only go on with interference from the top portion of the regulator. It will not install without modifying it in my kit. If there is another way I would like to hear how you installed it as well.
Here is my modified bracket spun and using self tapping screws into the body of the car, Its very secure and out of the way, well above the rear axle.
I did not spend the extra bucks for the evap line conversion. I chose to get a piece of 1/4" vacuum line and run it from the regulator to the nipple on the hardline that the quick disconnect was on but I cut it off and used a hose clamp.
Line from filter in this pic is included from zzp.
Line to the gas tank is what is pulled from the fuel filter. Replace your filter while you are down here... Its 30 bucks for the wix and cheap clog insurance.
]
Here is my unmolested picture of my setup. There are many ways to install this but I kind of winged it. I figure zzp never went into detail since there are many ways to skin this cat. Just really wish it would have come with some type of explanation of the craptastic bracket install.
With this picture from zzp everything else is self explanatory. Just wondering how anyone can put the bracket on the regulator after the bracket is installed since the screws are inaccessible.
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...MAG05201-1.jpg
Going to do the rest of the install at a later time for the line under the hood. Ran out of time today.
Thanks to derboy8 for the help tonight. We have to get some pics of the cars together sometime.
#20
#23
lolwut?
If anything; The fuel in the injectors will be the hottest, right on the back side of the pintle. With a constant flow of fuel, the fuel going to the tank will be warmer but the fuel at the injector will potentially be cooler.
The amount of flow from a dw300, with the addition of 14gph(will be 20-25 next week) of 50/50 meth will take care if any KR issues from hot fuel I have with the 2.6" tvs.
c130aviator:
As long as it works like it is designed, you are happy with it; Thats all that counts
Be careful with it tho, depending on the automotive safety/emission inspections your location has, When using the EVAP line from the purge valve back, you are technically disabling part of the federal emissions devices.
-They are talking about minimum $10K fines and 3years in federal pen for screwing around with diesels 05 and newer; ***** getting ridiculous.
If anything; The fuel in the injectors will be the hottest, right on the back side of the pintle. With a constant flow of fuel, the fuel going to the tank will be warmer but the fuel at the injector will potentially be cooler.
The amount of flow from a dw300, with the addition of 14gph(will be 20-25 next week) of 50/50 meth will take care if any KR issues from hot fuel I have with the 2.6" tvs.
c130aviator:
As long as it works like it is designed, you are happy with it; Thats all that counts
Be careful with it tho, depending on the automotive safety/emission inspections your location has, When using the EVAP line from the purge valve back, you are technically disabling part of the federal emissions devices.
-They are talking about minimum $10K fines and 3years in federal pen for screwing around with diesels 05 and newer; ***** getting ridiculous.
I am military in a different state registered in Texas. LOL no emission worries here.
In fact I have no Catalytic, all evap codes deleted, evap system removed from under the hood, thinking about doing under the car but need the canister due to fuel tank gasses escaping under the car uncontrolled.
Last edited by c130aviator; 06-02-2013 at 03:05 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#25
I may do that, seems to be kind of worthless under there but the charcoal canister under there only weighs 5 lbs or something. Kind of like having the protection there. Funny thing is when I changed my filter I spilled e85 all over the place and dried it up with towels. It WAS NOT very bad smelling like regular gas and it evaporated very quickly. I felt safer since e85 burns cooler, there wasnt as big a risk of danger from fire, etc. I FREAKING LOVE E! just saying...