2.2 belt tensioner, will the adjustable work from 2.0?
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2.2 belt tensioner, will the adjustable work from 2.0?
I need to know if the adjustable tensioner from the 2.0 will work on a 2.2, because when i shift hard from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd, i get this squealing noise that comes from the passenger side of the car, and i know it isnt the tires breaking loose. can anybody help me with this dilemma? and are you having the same problems?
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i always thought if your going to insult someone or make fun of them, you would at least have to crack a joke that makes sense to them and everyone else...lol
#8
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i would think it might, they are basically the same engine block, but be safe and check with the manufacture, they will be able to tell you forsure, but if that is the problemyou might just need a new belt or the stock tensioner, but i have no idea why any cobalts would be having this problem none are near old enough to experience this yet.
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well ive already replaced the belt, still does it...possible tentioner bad, but if im gonna replace it, why not just use the adjustable one, that way later on if needed i can tighten it some more, cuz if this factory tensioner goes bad, whats ta say the next one wont, and whats ta say the adjustable one wont eventually have slack, but it can be adjusted. you see my logic here?
#10
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yes and no, it is possible that this could void your warrenty, since it is not an oem part, and deals with many vital componets that make our engines run. if that adj. tensioner were to fail, the engine could blow and it would be on your dime.
So my logic is, if it is the tensioner, replace it with an oem piece, none of our vehicles warrenties should have expired yet but i may be wrong, you go through with this and it breaks your screwed.
so easy fix dosent always end up the cheap solution.
i would stay oem for warrenty sake.
So my logic is, if it is the tensioner, replace it with an oem piece, none of our vehicles warrenties should have expired yet but i may be wrong, you go through with this and it breaks your screwed.
so easy fix dosent always end up the cheap solution.
i would stay oem for warrenty sake.
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07 cobalt guy, thanks for the advice. i understand what you mean. but i have 58000 on my 05 and the warranty is out...lol i have extended service contract and the deductable is 200 dollars, and seeing as how i work at a place where i can get parts at wholesale, it would be cheaper if i did the aftermarket for a couple of reasons
1:aftermarket part is cheaper in cost than the factory
2:warranty void anyway, only extended warranty
3:either way, the part goes out im screwed
4:factory cannot void warranty unless proved the aftermarket part caused the fault, or if the part is replaced free of cost and you choose to do a different part..its called the magnuson-moss act, passed in the early 90's to protect consumers like you and i.
1:aftermarket part is cheaper in cost than the factory
2:warranty void anyway, only extended warranty
3:either way, the part goes out im screwed
4:factory cannot void warranty unless proved the aftermarket part caused the fault, or if the part is replaced free of cost and you choose to do a different part..its called the magnuson-moss act, passed in the early 90's to protect consumers like you and i.
#12
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yes and no, it is possible that this could void your warrenty, since it is not an oem part, and deals with many vital componets that make our engines run. if that adj. tensioner were to fail, the engine could blow and it would be on your dime.
So my logic is, if it is the tensioner, replace it with an oem piece, none of our vehicles warrenties should have expired yet but i may be wrong, you go through with this and it breaks your screwed.
so easy fix dosent always end up the cheap solution.
i would stay oem for warrenty sake.
So my logic is, if it is the tensioner, replace it with an oem piece, none of our vehicles warrenties should have expired yet but i may be wrong, you go through with this and it breaks your screwed.
so easy fix dosent always end up the cheap solution.
i would stay oem for warrenty sake.
The accessory belt doesnt run anything absolutely vital to the engine.
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I need to know if the adjustable tensioner from the 2.0 will work on a 2.2, because when i shift hard from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd, i get this squealing noise that comes from the passenger side of the car, and i know it isnt the tires breaking loose. can anybody help me with this dilemma? and are you having the same problems?
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haha duh, i shoulda caught that, instead i was too busy worrying about informing people about aftermarket parts. i noticed this when i replaced my belt, i said damn, no power steering pully, cuz that electronic now, haha and noticed it was farely simple to replace the belt. anyway, back on topic, any more ideas fellas?
#19
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so too change that belt tensioner all you have to do is take the belt off and loosen that bolt on top and the thing just comes off? if anyone has done theis just let me know the best steps. I have a 2.2 and i have a bad chirp/rattle from the belt side. my belt looks brand new. i was told by a mechanic that it was the tensioner. i have 55,000 on my 06. it first started with a little noise every now and then but now it is constant. if anyone has any ideas other than that just let me know. if you have had that tensioner off and have any tips just let me know i would appreciate it.
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as far as removing it, you just unscrew the bolt just like you said. No tricks or anything involved
#21
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hunter this thread is old, from 07...man i feel old bc i remember this post hahahaaha...i was like hmm this sounds familiar, the guy who resurected it(thank you for searching btw) asked how to remove the tensionor:
-put car on jack stands
-undo the 3 bottom bolts on the rear tranny mount
-remove engine mount(via the 5 bolts under the airbox)
-jakc the engine up from the oil pan, be sure to use a 2x4 or something to distribute the force as to not crack the pan
-once its up high enough to wrap a socket around the bolt, remove the bolt, which i believe is a 15mm, remove it, this will aleviate all the tension in the belt, so the belt will be loose the tensionor will be off
-put new tensionor on, i dont know trq spec, but hell, put it on really ******* tight and u should have no issues
-than put everything back on
ps not responsible if you break anything...and this is a 1-2hr job if its ur first time working on the tranny/engine mounts and removed the intake, a good 30-45mins if your good
-put car on jack stands
-undo the 3 bottom bolts on the rear tranny mount
-remove engine mount(via the 5 bolts under the airbox)
-jakc the engine up from the oil pan, be sure to use a 2x4 or something to distribute the force as to not crack the pan
-once its up high enough to wrap a socket around the bolt, remove the bolt, which i believe is a 15mm, remove it, this will aleviate all the tension in the belt, so the belt will be loose the tensionor will be off
-put new tensionor on, i dont know trq spec, but hell, put it on really ******* tight and u should have no issues
-than put everything back on
ps not responsible if you break anything...and this is a 1-2hr job if its ur first time working on the tranny/engine mounts and removed the intake, a good 30-45mins if your good
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