2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

2.2L build update

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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 08:35 PM
  #126  
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I can somewhat see what he's saying. Basically, the more the are moves through the exhaust/charge piping, the cooler it's going to get. Where or not there will be significant cooling, idk. I can't see it cooling more than an intercooler however. You're at the mercy of the ambient temps to cool your intake air. I'm sure there are ways (Meth/CO2) to cool the air further inside the charge piping.

and elvis is 100% correct, the success of this setup will be in the tune. Now, seeing as though you will have to use a stand alone or piggy back system, will provide its advantages and disadvantages. It will allow you to tune without being restrained by the limits of the stock computer however, you will need to find someone who knows your software and unlike hpt, there's not many people on here that will be able to help you. Tune well and you could have a very solid setup and make some nice numbers. however, a poor tune or a "rushed" tune is only going to lead to loud banging noises. Then me and the mad scientist are going to have to rip apart the block and replace the piston rings you fried. [/fnf quote]

in all seriousness, I believe this setup does have some potential, but it's all about whether you're over eager to get it done and rush it, or if you pay attn to the details, find a good tuner and build a solid RELIABLE setup.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by NJHK
*Holds you*

Elvis, show vinny this thread lol
lol already done <3



but if you really really really want heat to escape you could create a ram air effect by adjusting your hood. loosen the bolts and push the hood as far up as you can (near the windshield)

but no matter what you're going to need an intercooler, because when you compress air it's just natural that it's going to get hot.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 09:51 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by elvisc
lol already done <3



but if you really really really want heat to escape you could create a ram air effect by adjusting your hood. loosen the bolts and push the hood as far up as you can (near the windshield)

but no matter what you're going to need an intercooler, because when you compress air it's just natural that it's going to get hot.
Bingo Bango
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 10:05 PM
  #129  
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Ok so when im ready to install my turbo...im either driving to RI or TN, or how about you both just come to my house? I think thats a great plan lol
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 10:50 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by ORT
Ok so when im ready to install my turbo...im either driving to RI or TN, or how about you both just come to my house? I think thats a great plan lol
lol i do travel alot, so if i can find a place to crash then TN is cool with me

just dont rape me lol
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 10:52 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by ORT
Ok so when im ready to install my turbo...im either driving to RI or TN, or how about you both just come to my house? I think thats a great plan lol
I'm actually moving back to New Jersey lol

2 hr drive 4 u
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 10:59 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by elvisc
lol i do travel alot, so if i can find a place to crash then TN is cool with me

just dont rape me lol

lol its not me you have to worry about....its Adam.....


Originally Posted by NJHK
I'm actually moving back to New Jersey lol

2 hr drive 4 u
Ohhhhh ****! why you moving back? To be close to me? haha
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 12:01 AM
  #133  
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I'll explain later
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 08:37 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by NJHK
I'll explain later

Aww damn. Just leave us all hangin like that. Soo messed up . So uhhhh would you be available on a weekend if I were to need some help?
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 11:59 AM
  #135  
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http://khturbo.net/rmtz24/RMTZ24.html
heres an interesting site, this one was posted on sixthsphere, in their remote mount turbo thread, some of the pic's provide food for thought. esspecially for the dailly driven part of this.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 03:42 PM
  #136  
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nice find
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 03:46 PM
  #137  
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yes very nice find. makes me stick with my choice to go with the remote mount system. 175k miles then he used the remote mount turbo on a cavy. and its still running fine at 200k miles. sounds like a winner to me. not to mention 324whp
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 04:02 PM
  #138  
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That amount of power ain't bad at all.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 06:00 PM
  #139  
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Remember It also has a 3400 V6 in it. I wouldn't expect your numbers to be that high. Of course stranger things have happened. Thats a very clean J-Body though. Looks nice!
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 06:07 PM
  #140  
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that is true, i wouldnt be looking at getting 324whp but i wouldn't be to far off at guessing some where around 280whp maybe a touch higher

then slap on that 2 stage 125hp nitro kit and hmmm sounds like one fast ride but i better do something about this trany lol

Last edited by xCobalt05x; Jul 12, 2007 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 06:10 PM
  #141  
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Yeah thats a good projection. Im aiming at anywere around 220 to 240. But I still have to get my motor put together. I'm working on it. Slowly and shortly lol. I'm definatly interested to see your remote system and the numbers you lay down.

hahaha 125 shot on top of that...ohhh mannn be carefffulll. haha why not just a 75. I was going to run a 75 shot on my car but I sold it. Definatly don't underestimate nitrous....just use it remebering your pretty much playing with fire lol :-P Granted you will be running a turbo too. But IMO i feel safer with the turbo or charger then nitrous. However, with nitrous you get the best go for your buck.

Last edited by ORT; Jul 12, 2007 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 06:14 PM
  #142  
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i found a 2 stage kit works in spirts kinda if you want to call it that. its by dyno tune. first stage is for launch. It uses a 50 hp dry shot that once the system is armed the nitrous gets injected at 3k rpms and shuts off at 6k rpms. This allows my auto trany to shift since i shift at 6.5k rpms. After shifting into second gear the 50hp dry shot kicks back in but at the same time a 75hp wet shot kicks in. Its called something like a "window" switch or something. here is a link to the kit

http://www.nitrouskits.com/store/Scr...?idproduct=206
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 06:54 PM
  #143  
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Yeah I had a dynotune system. So looking at that kit its not reallly a 125 shot. its a 50 then a 75.

But please don't do dry shot. Avoid that as much as possible, this may get argued, but dry is the much more dangerous out of the 2. Go for a wet shot it will be a lot safer. I would do a 75 shot with what you'll be running. I think you will be more then happy with that. Just feel like with the turbo and the power you will be putting out with that, a 125 shot will cause some problems and breakage. Now a dry kit....im going to definatly say you will run into trouble launching right off the line with a 50 dry shot. I just wouldn't feel safe running a dry and a wet shot together...Honostly i dunno if that is possible. If it is, it can't be very safe or good for the motor

Your window switch is what you use to activate and turn off the spray. I think if I remember correctly peoplewere setting theres to start spraying at 31 or 3500 rpms then set it to turn off at 6000? Im not quite sure. Take a look in the nitrous section, you should find a lot of answers about it in there.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 07:41 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by ORT
Yeah I had a dynotune system. So looking at that kit its not reallly a 125 shot. its a 50 then a 75.

But please don't do dry shot. Avoid that as much as possible, this may get argued, but dry is the much more dangerous out of the 2. Go for a wet shot it will be a lot safer. I would do a 75 shot with what you'll be running. I think you will be more then happy with that. Just feel like with the turbo and the power you will be putting out with that, a 125 shot will cause some problems and breakage. Now a dry kit....im going to definatly say you will run into trouble launching right off the line with a 50 dry shot. I just wouldn't feel safe running a dry and a wet shot together...Honostly i dunno if that is possible. If it is, it can't be very safe or good for the motor

Your window switch is what you use to activate and turn off the spray. I think if I remember correctly peoplewere setting theres to start spraying at 31 or 3500 rpms then set it to turn off at 6000? Im not quite sure. Take a look in the nitrous section, you should find a lot of answers about it in there.
I'm following the GM build guide for the most part.

My buddy has a 2.2LT and he runs a 75 dry shot and he was running it at 15.1 in the 1/4. He had the 75 dry shot in there for a long long time. We made about 6 passes that day down the strip w/ no problems.

That kit uses only the dry in stage 1. But once you shift into the next gear it uses both the 50 and the 75 for a total of 125hp at once.

The gm build guide says that after you upgrade the pistons and rods the engine is safe to 150hp shot. So im still staying away from the breakage part.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 08:14 PM
  #145  
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I really need to take off these panties...they're itching!
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 08:28 PM
  #146  
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wait wait, your buddy has a 75 shot nitrous kit and its a dry setup? how exactly do his injectors supply enough fuel for that amount of nitrous? Are you sure its not a wet kit cuz I don't see his motor lasting very long on our baby injectors.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 08:51 PM
  #147  
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yes it is a dry shot system. i know the difference. nothing of his nitrous kit tapped into the fuel rail for extra fuel or fuel mixing of any kind

well his engine is still pumping strong and that run was made over a year ago

ask him about it, his name is cobaltblueLT on here

Last edited by xCobalt05x; Jul 12, 2007 at 08:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 10:24 PM
  #148  
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waits for the blown motor thread.
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 03:21 AM
  #149  
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wow I feel for his injectors...he must not spray very often.

just curious, how do you plan to tune for a dry shot?
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Old Jul 13, 2007 | 03:22 AM
  #150  
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Strong = Barely
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