just the throttle body.

 

alright that's good cause i don't plan on going to the tb cause i heard of some problems with running it without a tune, that it would cause some problems and make the car run on limp mode?

 

In your case I recommend the CED 2.4 mani kit -- it has the TB plate to insure a life-long seal. You can take the chance without the plate but when you install the 2.2L TB on it without the plate take a mirror and look under the TB -- you can see the gasket getting squished out. Not the best situation!

If you install a 2.4L TB on the 2.4L intake mani on a 2.2L you will get one stab at WOT, feel the difference, and then hope you make it home...no kidding Had it happen to me. You have to get a tune to run the 2.4L TB on a 2.2L because of the flow diagnostics in the ECU system -- the ECU detects too much air flow for the throttle blade position and will "kick-in" limp mode.

 

i just installed the 2.4 intake manifold and i have 2 questions

1.should my idle rpms go up it seem like its just under 950 or 1000

2. should I have used the bolt thats supplied to connect the tb plate/paper gasket to the tb? I just put it all together and bolted it to the manifold

besides that its seems like it revs up a lot faster, and the torque is more evenly spread

 

ur fine. idle is supposed to be around 1000.

 

ok, so i took it all apart and inspected everything and put it back together with clamps on all hoses this time. Still am idling at about 1300 rpm and when out of gear coasting it sits at 1800 till i stop. Any ideas on what can still be causing this? will having my codes read and erased help at all?

 

Everything cant be alright if youre idling at 1800, LOL

do you hear any air leaks(hissing)?

Did you use the adapter plate for the throttle body?

Did you crack or get a cracked manifold?

 

no, checked everything, no cracks, adapter plates are on the tb. no idea whats goin on. i clamped the one hose that looked loose and still nothing

also it would be hard to hear a hissing, my intake is pretty loud, ive tried to feel around and see if i can feel air moving but nothing

 

Is your MAP sensor installed securely with the seal and a proper fit?

 

ill go double check and let you know. i was just browsing through the problems and service forum and found a few other people with this problem. Somebody said the cause could be from strectching the tb springs when cleaning it out. Think thats a posibility? if so is there a way to check and be sure or just replace the tb and pray?

 

Are you not throwing any codes? I would think you would be getting a lean code if that were the case.

 

no im not getting any codes at all. I just came back inside, i ended up taking everything out and redoing it all and noticed 2 things, though im not sure if they are the source of the problem.
1- i didnt reuse the clip off of the old bb hose
2- when i was doing the bb hose i fully took it out of the firewall, the rubber piece holding it in doesnt feel tight enough now.

Im gonna go to advanced auto in the morning and see about getting these pieces, any idea if this is possibly the solution?

 

if the booster hoose isnt tight at the booster itll cause a massive leak and high idle

 

ok, 1/2 the problem solved. I didnt get the parts yet, i have to wait till monday to get them through chevy. While i was out driving i decided to turn my ac on (i havent used it in like half a year). Now my car idles normal, right at about 800rpms. I turned the ac off and it stayed there also turned the car off and on and its staying normal now. Any idea why it would do that? doesnt turning the ac on usually up the rpms 100 or so? But im still having the car stay at about 1500rpm untill i get under 15mph. Im not real worried about that now since the idle is normal now but hope to get an answer for that eventually.

 

*sigh* thought it was solved, turned out to be a quick fix. So, anything come to mind on whats wrong now that i know if i turn the ac on for a minute and turn it back off the car will idle correctly? im getting annoyed with the situation and im sure you guys are annoyed with all the posts, but i appreciate all the input so far. In the instructions it says the manifold needs to be drilled 1/4 for the map sensor, but im pretty sure that only meant for the 07's so i didnt do it. Am i correct with that? Also my map sensor did fall during the install, but are they that fragile that a small drop will mess one up. thanks in advance for the help again.

 

With the car OFF unplug the MAP sensor wiring, start the car, if the problem goes away, you need a new MAP sensor.

See......people always leave out parts of the story, lol.

 

I still think it is a vacuum leak. Try spraying something all around the intake and listen for change in RPM.

 

unplugged the map sensor, started the car and it ran the same. Plugged it back in and started, no difference at all. That mean the sensor is bad if there is no change in the car?

 

No that means the sensor isnt causing the problem

 

Little bit of work...you could spend the time removing the intake and verifying that all seals/gaskets are in place and not damaged or misaligned. Also make sure you have the PCV plate/gasket assy installed. How about the TB gasket -- take a mirror and look all around it to make sure it isn't sticking out.

 

ive taken it apart twice everything is perfectly in place, except as ive said before the only piece i dont have is the clip the connects the bb hose to the mani. i have the hose clamped the the mani untill i get the replacement. I guess ill spend some time tomorrow doing it again. One other thing, the install directions say the manifold needs to be drilled 1/4 inch for the map sensor, but i think that was only for the 07's is that correct?
Still, how come when i turn my ac on then off everything goes back to normal?

 

The only reason the MAF hole had to be drilled out was for the MAF to fit. If your MAF is able to be installed and seals there is no reason for you to drill the hole larger.


"Still, how come when i turn my ac on then off everything goes back to normal?"
This makes it hard to diagnose -- even for an experienced technician...and it makes it harder for us to help over a computer! Take a look at the TB wiring connector -- are all connectors straight and none bent?

 

Everything is back to normal now, cold weather have something to do with it? Or is the heat just making wherever the leak may be expand and plug up? Anyway i did the soapy water test and found nothing.