hey what is needed to complete the swap of the 2.4 intake manifold swap that you buy off crateenginedepot.com other than the parts provided???

thats going to be my next mod and how much work is it to install?

 

the kit off of CED has everything you need. It should take like 20-30 minutes to install the 2.4L manifold

 

if you got the 08 then you dont even need all that you just need the manifold, booster hose, gaskets

 

will i need an intake mani gasket?

 

He has an 07, it's in his screen name...

 

DOH! i fail

 

i just bought a injen cai/sri for my 2.2, and i was just wondering if the throttle body changes with the intake mani. or do you just use the stock tb and the 2.4 intake mani? cause i don't want to have to make modifications to get the intake to fit on the new TB if there is one required or if it even different.

 

Stock 2.2 TB on the 2.4 manifold. Without tuning you will go into limp mode with the 2.4 TB on the 2.2 engine. ECM senses too much airflow for TB blade position with the 2.4 TB.

 

okay and it should be a direct type bolt on? no tune req'd for 2.2 TB on the 2.4 IM? what kinda gains do you look at? i heard you lose low end but gain a better high end, where it counts the most anyway. like any ##'s?

 

Check out CED's site: crateenginedepot.com, click on sport compact on the left side of the screen, find the MMGF 2.4 intake, click on it and it has some dyno numbers you can look at. Dyno only tells part of the story -- doing a dyno you run the engine to 2000 RPM then floor it slowly to get the readings. On the street you floor it fast and will not feel any loss of low end power. My 06 LS with the 2.4 manifold, GMPP intake, GMPP performance exhaust, and GMPP ext-honed mani ran just fine for a N/A 4 banger!

2.2 TB bolts right on the 2.4 manifold but there is less room for the TB gasket so CED made a plate to insure a long-life positive seal.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...t-W67C144.aspx

If you are going to keep telling people this please be sure to include one VERY IMPORTANT piece you omitted -- the 2.4 manifold PCV plate...without that plate the engine will not idle right!!!!!

 

No tune required, but remember that you will need to unhook from the battery to let the ecm recalibrate for the bigger manifold. You will need the manifold, a longer boost hose which you can get at autozone for < $5, the gasket that fits on the intake runners (it's a plastic lining that goes over the holes, not the standard metal gaskets), the TB adapter so you can screw the TB onto the manifold, and maybe a vacuum hose coupler and some clamps.

It all sounds confusing, but once you see the parts you will know. The only thing you can't pick up at autozone is going to be the adapter plate. I have no clue how you get those unless the buy the kit. I think someone on here makes them, you might have to search around.

 

There's some great how-to's for the install, I don't have the links handy but do a google search there's a couple of cobalt and jbody guys with writeups....my jbody will need tuning with the intake though or risk detonation at wot.

 

No intention to "bash" you personaly...this is a never-ending myth...The only way to reset the sensor learn values is to do an erase of the DTCs (even if there are no codes). Disconnecting the battery will not reset the sensor learn values because the ECM supposedly has it's own power supply. This way the ECM diagnostic system will maintain information even if the car battery is disconnected.

 

if that is true then how come every company i have bought products from has has in their instructions as step #1 to disconnect the negative terminal. i just saw it yesterday on my injen intake instructions and the same thing on the K&N. so why would companies that obviously know what they're doing tell you to disconnect the battery when in reality it won't do anything.

 

the number 0ne reason they tell you to disconnect the negative is for their and your own protection -- so that you don't accidentally short anything while working under the hood.

I consider the factory service manual to be the "authority" on these cars -- in the factory service manual the method I described is how GM says to reset the sensor learn values...nowhere in the factory service manual does it say to disconnect the negative battery post to reset the sensor learn values. It does, however say to disconnect the negative battery when working on the car -- for the same reason...so you don't accidentally short anything.

 

OH. my bad. lol.

so is there anyway for me to reset those values after installing an intake, or is it not worth it/ won't make any difference?

 

I believe that after you change a mojor component (that has a sensor in it) you should reset it so the car adjusts to it quicker. It will, over time, relearn on it's own but may take longer. Best example I get get is after installing the GMPP intake, Ext honed Mani, 2.4 manifold, and GMPP performance exhaust on my 06 LS it seemed to have no low end response -- wouldn't even squeal the tires. After doing an erase (when I found the instructions in the factory service manual) I could "light-up" the tires!

BTW...the factory service manual also states to erase the codes if you replace an HO2S sensor -- says if you don't you can damage the sensor "right off the bat". Since GM wrote THAT I practice it!!!

 

oh so there's really no way to do it easily go about re-learning?

that sucks, but do you know like if it's hard or easy to do?

and maybe tell me how to do it?

 

All you need is an OBD II scanner/reader that has an erase feature. If you have an autozone around go there and ask them to read your codes and do an erase. Takes maybe 4 seconds to do the erase.

 

I can't speak for Cobalts, pretty sure the system works the same tho, disconnecting battery for 10 minutes resets the basic parameters and car goes through learning process again, car will not drive quite as well and it will make adjustments and take advantage of any new mods rather quickly... if you do not reset ecu or do what was suggested the erase, the car will still adjust to the mods, but it will do it a lot slower.

 

that is true i notice the car changed slowly after i put my exhaust and intake on it took about a week to gain higher response but gained more and more response everytime i drove it even though i disconnected the battery
but after it relearned it acted so much faster instead of sluggish like it was at stock