2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

bad brakes on the 2.2...what can we do?

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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 05:03 PM
  #26  
Novajoe's Avatar
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I just have a hard time thinking is a defect with the star wheel. I mean... there's really not much there to mess up. basically one fork that screws into another fork with a spring-loaded arm to keep it from backing off. If there was a problem anywhere I'd expect it to be with the wheel cylinders not expanding evenly.
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 07:33 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Vin
Fixed all the issues you described above. With new rotars and pads the problem never went away. A shaky brake was here to stay it seemed until it occurred to me to check the back drums. The shoes were not as tight as they should be. The ratchet gear was stuck and not tightening up the shoes it should have. I played with the ratchet gear until it wasn't as stiff and then ratchet up the shoes so they are snug on the back drums. I then put my wheels back on and I haven't has a braking issue since.

Incase you didn't know how back drums work I'll tell you. Every time you back up the ratchet should click a few times. This spring loaded mechanism is a simple design that is on many, many cars and most mechanics often look past them. If the ratchet is stuck momentarily the shoe will not tighten up against the drum so your back wheels will not be braking the way they should be.

The computer will detect this, I don't know if slippage is detected in the back wheels but maybe or the front has to compensate for the crappy braking in the back. The ABS kicks in and your car shutters and shakes like a bitch. It took me two weeks to solve this problem I had.
i have done some work on drums, and will try that, thanks for the great info!
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 05:06 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Vin
Its easy to do. You just tap it off. These are new cars. I guess I'll have to make a howto
oh, no how to needed here. It was my first time working on drum brakes, without the proper tools, and 0 knowledge of what was under that drum before I pulled it off.

After that ordeal I think I can handle my cobalts. lawl
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 06:12 AM
  #29  
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Read this.

http://www.baer.com/technical/braking-202/index.php

Properly braking in your rotors and pads is critical.

Most "warping", especially when the parts are relatively new, is actually a buildup of pad material on the rotors because the pads have not been bedded.

As many have said here already, regular cleaning and adjustment of the rear drums is very important so that you do not overwork the front brakes. I pop the brakes hard at least once a day in reverse to try to keep the rears adjusted. Cleaning them regularily is a great thing to do.

Last edited by craig; Aug 11, 2007 at 06:14 AM. Reason: Usrd wrong word by mistake
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 05:51 PM
  #30  
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i just think the brakes are small in the front myself i need bigger brakes I think itd be better for the weight of the car. not sure wahts available though
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #31  
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I'm sure there are plenty of companies that make big brake kits for our cars. Personally I'd stay away from the drilled slotted rotors unless you want the show aspect of it. The fact that you can't turn them and they tend to warp and crack easily makes it a big hassle.

I'm not sure if the front brakes on the ss/sc are bigger diameter wise or not. But it would be a good first place to check. It would be pretty easy to slap some larger diameter rotors on with the same bolt pattern but you have to get the caliper to bolt up as well...

That said... you really don't need a heavier duty brake system unless you're adding alot of weight to the car or rotational mass to the hub(bigger heavier wheels). The brakes on your car stock have been tested and designed by professionals to make sure it's the calibur necessary to stop your car on demand. Our stock brakes work great... There's just a few bugs to work out.
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Old Aug 11, 2007 | 11:30 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by gashousecobalt
i dont have shaking brakes but i do hear this sound like they are wore out i have heard it every since i got the car
I had this and it turned out that they needed to be resurfaced. GM did it in 3 hours. Drop it by the dealership to get it fixed. They solved mine.
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 01:05 PM
  #33  
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just curious, did this vibration start after you got new wheels?
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Old Aug 13, 2007 | 09:20 AM
  #34  
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From: West Babylon, NY
^^^ I know what you are thinking, but if the wheels were out of balance it would be all the time, not just when braking.
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Old Aug 13, 2007 | 10:35 AM
  #35  
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i have a 2.4 and have the same problem...i just recently got it fixed for the second time by the dealer i guess its under warranty for mine...all they do is resurface the rotors and the problem reoccurs in a few thousand miles. My friend has the same car as me and went n got it fixed 9 different times they even rebuilt the whole brake system and it still happened. Once it happens again for me im sueing them and then im gonna get the drilled n slotted rotors because thats all the problem is. I think the rotors are to big for the car or something.
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Old Aug 13, 2007 | 03:25 PM
  #36  
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I have a vibration problem as well. Replacing the front rotors and pads, and back pads. See if this make the difference
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:41 PM
  #37  
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From: York, PA
had my car in for inspection the other day. they told me i had a pulsation in my brakes, i said yeha no ****! i tried to get you to fix it before.
this time i got some action. my rotors were re-surfaced under warranty! woot woot!
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:45 PM
  #38  
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my steering wheel shakes everyonce and while under braking,.... so i mean thats one of my problems... i can feel the shaking in the petal also... oh well... i know my car is fine....They do make a brake kit for our cars.... look for it
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 02:02 PM
  #39  
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yes...they make a big brake kit and it is expensive as hell...i am just going to upgrade to drilled slotted rotors with better brake pads and im not sure of the shoes yet
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 03:39 PM
  #40  
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I changed my Rotors and Pads and made my car Rear Bias on the Brakes by turning up the tension on the Back drums.
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 04:45 PM
  #41  
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From: somewhere
im not even talking big brake... im talking a rear disc brakes
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 04:53 PM
  #42  
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From: West Babylon, NY
Originally Posted by YellowLT
I changed my Rotors and Pads and made my car Rear Bias on the Brakes by turning up the tension on the Back drums.
dumb simple questions but...


which way do we turn this star wheel to tighten? ive worked on cars that had them both ways
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 05:06 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by OrngBalt
dumb simple questions but...


which way do we turn this star wheel to tighten? ive worked on cars that had them both ways
If i remember correctly you have to push the wheel down, but i think it only goes one way
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #44  
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It shouldnt only go one way.... they are designed to also help release pressure from the drum when removing it.
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