Blown engine / Core engine pictures
#1
I'm old school
Thread Starter
Blown engine / Core engine pictures
Here is my engine back when the valve spring broke and tore up my first engine.
On this one, notice how the valve seat is gone. The valve knocked it right out of the head when the piston jammed it on the up stroke.
Then on this one, you can see a broken lifter jammed in its boss, right next to a normal lifter still sitting next to it on the bottom row (exhaust side).
Then I have pics of a now disassembled core engine. I don't have the head anymore because it is being installed on my old engine to replace the destoyed one. Here is the case from the bottom;
On this one of the lower crankcase/girdle you can plainly see the cast-in dimple for a turbo oil return line.
All the major sub assemblies except for the head;
Here is the timing end of a crankcase. The large hole on the left is the water pump mount. The two smaller holes are the balance shaft bosses.
I also got a valve cover with the core, so I'm polishing it up. Here is its so far. I have cleaned it using Nylox brushes and drill. I need to get a smaller cup brush to get into the ignition module channel.
On this one, notice how the valve seat is gone. The valve knocked it right out of the head when the piston jammed it on the up stroke.
Then on this one, you can see a broken lifter jammed in its boss, right next to a normal lifter still sitting next to it on the bottom row (exhaust side).
Then I have pics of a now disassembled core engine. I don't have the head anymore because it is being installed on my old engine to replace the destoyed one. Here is the case from the bottom;
On this one of the lower crankcase/girdle you can plainly see the cast-in dimple for a turbo oil return line.
All the major sub assemblies except for the head;
Here is the timing end of a crankcase. The large hole on the left is the water pump mount. The two smaller holes are the balance shaft bosses.
I also got a valve cover with the core, so I'm polishing it up. Here is its so far. I have cleaned it using Nylox brushes and drill. I need to get a smaller cup brush to get into the ignition module channel.
#4
I'm old school
Thread Starter
This is actually old news for me, I'm just getting the pics up now. You can read about the story here:
Halfcent's Horror Story!
Halfcent's Horror Story!
#6
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Join Date: 12-21-05
Location: Edison, NJ
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I also blew my motor with only 381 miles on it....to be more specific, i cracked the block, warped the head, and melted the number 4 piston.......i did a pretty good job with it....hehe
#7
Premium Member
1/2
FYI
I've seen damage identical to this caused by a mis-assembled roller follower after a cam R&R. The follower has a notch/groove that must be properly aligned onto the tip of the valve step, as the cam is initially torqued down or it may "****" off to one side.
After the initial first pass tightening it's important to visually inspect each roller follower to make sure it hasnt cocked. The intake side is especially difficult to see when this is assembled "in-car" as you need to practically lay on your side, on top of the fender to inspect the lobe to roller alignment. From above- it's easily missed.I guess it could have dropped a keeper...
I suspect the broken spring was after the fact as well
What cam lifts are you using?
WopOnTour
FYI
I've seen damage identical to this caused by a mis-assembled roller follower after a cam R&R. The follower has a notch/groove that must be properly aligned onto the tip of the valve step, as the cam is initially torqued down or it may "****" off to one side.
After the initial first pass tightening it's important to visually inspect each roller follower to make sure it hasnt cocked. The intake side is especially difficult to see when this is assembled "in-car" as you need to practically lay on your side, on top of the fender to inspect the lobe to roller alignment. From above- it's easily missed.I guess it could have dropped a keeper...
I suspect the broken spring was after the fact as well
What cam lifts are you using?
WopOnTour
#9
I'm old school
Thread Starter
Correct, stock cams at the moment. The aftermarket cams I have seen are not street legal, and a street legal car is my goal. I am using Ferrea valve train components on the new head assembly. They allow a lift of up to .5. Since the cams on the ecotec are replaceable without taking off the head, it allows me to upgrade them later with ease.
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