2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

Clutch question

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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:52 PM
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Question Clutch question

I've read everyone asking what aftermarket clutches and such to put into their cars, mine is a little different. I went to the dealership today and they said that my clutch is fried, which i don't really believe because i can still drive it and it will still chirp second on the occasion. It really only slips if i launch it hard in 1st and shift into second. Anyway the dealership quoted me 1100 to put a factory clutch in, but they also said that they would put an aftermarket in for 750. I was looking at the Exedy oem repalacement clutch. Idk i'm basically looking for some advice from everyone. Soryy for the long post
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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My buddy does Cobalt clutches for $450 in labor.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:56 PM
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Oh and i'm wondering if i should replace the throw-out bearing and i'm at 42k miles
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:57 PM
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Anytime you replace the clutch, you replace the throwout bearing.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:57 PM
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Now $450 is more like it
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 12:05 AM
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i replaced mine with an exedy oem one...its exactly as it states oem no extra grip just like factory...made to not be expensive...if your gonna mod your car and drive hard id get a stronger clutch
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 12:41 AM
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the only other mods i plan on doing are a muffler swap, lowering springs(aftermarket or ss), and maybe a tune from trifecta. I just don't want to dump a lot of money into it if i could maybe get it done somewhere else cheaper

bump i really dont want to spend that amount of money

bump

Last edited by NewLS22; Jan 8, 2010 at 12:41 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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I'd pick up a stg 1 exedy or spec clutch, I have the exedy stg 2 clutch which i think is good for up to 300whp/320wtq, so a stg 1 should be more than enough for what you have planned. Stock replacement going to cost you about the same anyways, but 750$ is steep i got mine done at a respectable shop (SMG automotive) for $600 + the cost of the clutch and he resurfaced the flywheel and everything for me. Just remember if you go for a stg 1 clutch, the clutch is going to be a hell of a lot heavier than stock. It's kinda funny every time a valet or mechanic drives my car they stall it immediately but it sucks driving into Boston during rush hour gives your knee quite the workout
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 06:26 PM
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hey man are you happy with the stage 2 exedy? im bout to be supercharged and i think im leaning towards that one.
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 12:04 AM
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I have an 06 SS/SC..and my clutch went at 48k...so I installed the ecotech upgrade clutch...and since I'm not going abouve 270hp..it fits just right...took 2 days to install..it ran me about $310...got it from CED...I'll post alink for em....

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/drivetrain-79/ecotech-clutch-upgrade-183588/

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...P2301C229.aspx


after I installed it...man its great...good luck hope this helps
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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ml2242
I'd pick up a stg 1 exedy or spec clutch, I have the exedy stg 2 clutch which i think is good for up to 300whp/320wtq, so a stg 1 should be more than enough for what you have planned. Stock replacement going to cost you about the same anyways, but 750$ is steep i got mine done at a respectable shop (SMG automotive) for $600 + the cost of the clutch and he resurfaced the flywheel and everything for me. Just remember if you go for a stg 1 clutch, the clutch is going to be a hell of a lot heavier than stock. It's kinda funny every time a valet or mechanic drives my car they stall it immediately but it sucks driving into Boston during rush hour gives your knee quite the workout
I look at it like this, i drive in a "spirited" manner sometimes and i was figuring the stage 1 would be just about perfect for me. The only thing is that is chevy puts it in its covered by the 12 month 12k mile warranty. If they put in a factory clutch its going to be just about the same as if they put in an aftermarket one. I can't make up my mind

bump

Last edited by NewLS22; Jan 10, 2010 at 02:43 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 01:26 AM
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bump
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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Go with the exedy stage 1 and buy a new TOB/slave cyl every time you replace a clutch.... DONT GO SPEC! you will run into problems..
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 11:49 AM
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Exedy is the way to go if your staying N/A go stg 1 in you plan on going F/I go stg 2
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ml2242
Exedy is the way to go if your staying N/A go stg 1 in you plan on going F/I go stg 2
stage 1 is plenty for stock internals. trust me my 3 puck stage 2 is pretty stiff for DD
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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This may be a dumb question but i've been looking for a tob and such and can't find it anywhere, where can i find them??
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Old Jan 11, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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you wont find a throw out bearing, the bearing is part of the slave cylinder.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 06_ion2
stage 1 is plenty for stock internals. trust me my 3 puck stage 2 is pretty stiff for DD
I need stg 2 for my set up.. id burn through a stg 1 in no time
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ml2242
it sucks driving into Boston during rush hour gives your knee quite the workout
I cant imagine haha. I was up there for work not too long ago in a rental (it was auto). Much as I was pissed to be driving a mini van AND auto, I was glad once I hit just outside boston around 5PM haha.


Back on topic:

Are you guys really going through clutches at that mileage? I'm guessing you must drag / bang through the gears much more often or something...

I'm at 46,8xx miles and the clutch feels fine...but is that the upper limit of the OEM? If so, I gotta start saving haha...The car money fund is going to tires soon and a clutch shitting would be a big problem in the next 5K miles or so haha.

What is typical for the OEM clutch to last?
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by thisperishedmin
I cant imagine haha. I was up there for work not too long ago in a rental (it was auto). Much as I was pissed to be driving a mini van AND auto, I was glad once I hit just outside boston around 5PM haha.


Back on topic:

Are you guys really going through clutches at that mileage? I'm guessing you must drag / bang through the gears much more often or something...

I'm at 46,8xx miles and the clutch feels fine...but is that the upper limit of the OEM? If so, I gotta start saving haha...The car money fund is going to tires soon and a clutch shitting would be a big problem in the next 5K miles or so haha.

What is typical for the OEM clutch to last?
I have over 69,1XX miles on my stock clutch, nothing wrong with it.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MadBrad
I have over 69,1XX miles on my stock clutch, nothing wrong with it.
I always under the impression that normal driving would get you 80-120k miles before you'd need a clutch...thanks for the heads up though haha.

I'm expecting a bit less as I did learn on it...but I already know I beat the stories of kids killing a clutch after 2 weeks or 5000 miles and **** haha.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ml2242
I need stg 2 for my set up.. id burn through a stg 1 in no time
do you have the 3 puck stage 2 though?
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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As long as you know how to drive a stick a clutch should last upwards of 75k. My buddy's '88 Corolla has 170k on the stock clutch and he is the only owner.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 01:12 AM
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I knew how to drive a clutch, its just this is my first manual daily driver and i have a heavy foot. That combined with liking to chirp second was the downfall of frying my clutch
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 03:58 AM
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Another question, will i need a pilot bushing?
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