2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

Coolant Temperature Sensor

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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 12:36 AM
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Thumbs up Coolant Temperature Sensor

Ok, anybody know where the heck this thing is? It's been driving me It's been throwing a CEL in my car for quite some time now and I'd like to get it fixed. I have the sensor. Any detailed description, or even better, a pic of it's location would be great. Thanx in advance guys.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 12:41 AM
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let me consult my haynes manual...right after i finish this game of modern warfare 2
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 01:03 AM
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book says the ECT is located on the thermostat housing

it also says you have to drain the coolant before doin this and when you put the sensor back in wrap the threads with teflon tape
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 06:46 AM
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Thanx. I have the service manual but it's the thickness of 2 Bibles lol. I couldn't find anything about it but thanks to that book I am very familiar with the thermostat housing. Wasn't 100% sure about draining the coolant but now I know. I'll look for it when I have daylight. But a nice picture/description of the location would help me as well. Thank you.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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ill try to get one
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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Thanx. I got plenty of time right now. It's pouring down rain over here
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 12:06 AM
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its the little black sensor between the coolant lines.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 12:36 AM
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you da man spanky
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 12:52 AM
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I see you have a 2.2 and I have done this on mine already, as well as the thermostat at the same time. Took me all of about 10 minutes to do and while I put a bucket under the car to catch the coolant there really wasn't much lost while doing it...less than 1/4 of a regular sized drinking glass if that.
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 01:18 AM
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thanks guys. You were a big help. I'll get that done asap. Only now I have a new problem/ She won't start lol. My stepbrother who used to be a mechanic at a shop tells me it's the ignition switch. I turn the key and nothing happens. All the lights come on and everything works but she just opens the throttle body and that's it. No clicks from the starter from anything. I even tried to push start it by popping the clutch and she started and I was able to keep the revs up but then the fuel was cut. What so you guys think?
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Old Jan 2, 2011 | 12:42 PM
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test the starter and check your fuel and ignition relays as a precaution.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Spanky's Monkey
test the starter and check your fuel and ignition relays as a precaution.

Well if the starter's gone wouldn't you still be able to hear it? I could when my 97 Blazer's starter got fried. And I can hear the fuel pump. Plus I've been able to push start it several times and hold revs for about a second. I wanted to check the relays but my step brother sounded pretty sure it's the switch itself. Can I swap the relays to test it and still be able to start it?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:49 AM
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you'd have to have a working relay to start with... maybe, a friends cobalt... as for the starter i couldn't tell you if it was bad or not because of sound but i doubt they will all fail in the exact same manner.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 08slatecobalt
I see you have a 2.2 and I have done this on mine already, as well as the thermostat at the same time. Took me all of about 10 minutes to do and while I put a bucket under the car to catch the coolant there really wasn't much lost while doing it...less than 1/4 of a regular sized drinking glass if that.
was yours doing this??



i changed the sensor but the lights on still i guess i need to change the thermostat too
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 12:05 AM
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yes, that is exactly what mine was doing. I changed both the temp sensor and the thermostat at the same time so I honestly never knew what part exactly threw the code. Try to disconnect the battery first for about 5 minutes and then see if the light comes back on. You may just need to reset it
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 01:10 AM
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Swapped out the relay that says ign/run (I think that's what it says) and still got nothing. And like I said, you would still be able to hear the starter if it's fried. And I've been able to push start it several times but the fuel was cut. The car would still run for a second. I wouldn't think the starter would cut the fuel if it's already running.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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Cobalt ignition switches rarely go bad. The starter is fed by the CRANK fuse check it. Its controlled by the CRNK relay, check it. But if the car shuts off after 2 seconds when you get it fired youve got a security issue.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:45 PM
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I believe I replaced the crank relay but I need to double check. And I have an aftermarket security system since mine didn't come with one from the dealership. It's an autopage system. I was hopin it wasn't that.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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if youve got an aftermarket alarm its honestly the best place to look first. Cobalt ignition/security issues are rare like I said
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:37 AM
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Well... looks like I have a long day ahead of me. It went into theft mode and drained the battery completely so I have to get it charged and then tear apart the rear interior. Good thing I never bolted my seats back in. It's acted similar to this when I had my 12s in the trunk. The box was crushing the wires and made the alarm act funny. And right now I have 2 18" rims with tires in the trunk but I could've sworn they weren't laying on the battery cables. Hope this solves the problem. What do you guys think?
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Well... the battery is completely dead now and can't be charged. I need to buy a new one. It went dead a few days ago after 5 days in the parking lot. You guys think that's what might have made her quit on me? I thought the battery was replaced after my accident after it sat in a yard for a while (they charged the insurance company for a new battery but it's still the factory battery >:l ) It can't be charged so do you think that if I get a new battery she'll roar back to life?
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 04:30 PM
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Ok, new battery and still the same problem. I've been diggin through the site to find solutions and found the security reset stuff. I'll try that tonight after I get off work. Don't know why I didn't think of that. My step brother suggested I just unplug the box for the security system. It's an aftermarket AutoPage system. Anyone have this? It's about five years old right now if that helps? Don't know the model number. But he says if I just simply unplug it it should start because he's done it before on another car. Just scared to do that too because the entire system could need to be reset and I don't know how to do that. Anymore suggestions?
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:51 AM
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remove the alarm. its causing a parasitic drain on your battery and screwing you. as for the battery cables, maybe try and get a battery thats just alittle shorter... and then i have been thinking about building a small wooden support to hold up that rear mat off the battery. you may want to consider that. if its not the alarm get your alternator tested... if its going out or gone it wont charge your battery enough, or... obviously, at all.
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 03:53 PM
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I had this same problem. It is a good idea to check the fuses first. Then try unplugging the wiring harness from the ECT sensor and cleaning it. Fixed everything in my case and saved a bunch of $$$$
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