goaliemo

iTrader: (1)

So guys, cars been sitting almost 2 years now and finally to the point of putting it back together.
To start, it is getting a garret off a saab 9-3t. I know I dont NEED a pump upgrade for it. Since the cars been sitting with about 1/4 of a tank in it, i am going to drop the tank and thoroughly clean it. I'm not a fan of double working myself, so ill swap the pump out while its out.
What do you guys revommend? Seen mixed reviews on the walboro pumps. Aem seems to have good reviews. Any reviews on the zzp pump?
Also, should I grab the pump rewire kit from zzp or ottp while I'm at it?

Thanks guys.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

The larger pumps require you to cut the top part of the pump assembly so that you can fit it as they are taller. You don't want to cut the bottom off because it will lead to issues with fuel starvation as the stock housing is designed to keep the fuel pump primed even with when fuel sloshes away from the lower pickup sock momentarily. I think the two common choices are walbro 450lph or AEM 320lph. Having an oversize pump doesn't really hurt but having more than you need doesn't really help either. The more oversized your pump is the more excess fuel you will be pumping, heating up, and circulating back into your gas tank.

When I installed my pump I ran my own relay and wires from the battery in the trunk. All you have to do is run the signal wire from the front to a relay (connected to the trunk battery) instead of the pump and then wire the pump directly to the supply from that relay. I think people get away with using the stock wiring but it is undersized for the amp draw from the larger pump combined with the length of wire to run to the front.

goaliemo

iTrader: (1)

Seems the aem is the general consensus.

So relay and ground from the battery, and just use the signal wire from the fuse box? What gauge wire did you use?

Sorry. Not a fan of wiring so just want to make sure I understand correctly.

I saw the pump needs to be shaved down to fit. That's no big deal.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I think I used 12 gauge. Mine is setup a little different because I get ground signal from different ECU to activate the relay but I don't know why you couldn't take the hot signal to the pump and use it to activate the relay with a constant ground. I could draw up a rough schematic if you want to do your own relay but if you aren't a wiring type of guy maybe the kits from ZZP or OTTP are the way to go.

goaliemo

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't seem to difficult. My issue with wiring is I'm practically color blind, so I get frustrated if I don't have someone standing next to me to help (generally ends up being one of my children, haha)
Zzp states that the rewire kit is for lsj and lnf only. I don't see why it would be different though. I know the pumps themselves are different. Just don't see GM changing the wiring though for submodels.

I might just take you up on that offer. I'm going to ask OTTP about the wiring, too. Josh is great to work with.
I'm sure I could get the signal from the fuse box and run the ground to the battery. Ill find some wiring diagrams.

Hopefully ill be on a standalone soon so I won't have to worry about all the extra things and just make life easy.

goaliemo

iTrader: (1)

I really appreciate your input. I tried asking on facebook. They're just childish on there or "buy an SS/red line".
Thank you.

cw383

iTrader: (6)

Some facts that may or may not benefit you. The 320 LPH fuel pump flows about the same as what the stock pump does, at least on the LNF. Not sure about the L61 though. If you go with the 450 pump, be careful as there are 2 of them that seem identical, but one has a higher pressure rating then the other. Thats the one you want. Also you can modify the in tank fuel pressure regulator to up the pressure a bit if you have a need for that.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

From what I could find the LSJ fuel pumps flowed around 225lph and assuming our pumps are equivalent or lower rated the 320 lph pump would be an upgrade. The fuel pressure regulator on my pump was a simple cantilever type pressure relief valve. I'd guess you could modify it for more pressure by bending it slightly but wouldn't personally do that because the results would be unpredictable and you could change the characteristics and possibly even cause inconsistent pressure with different flow demand. I'm guessing cw383 is referring to the more typical style of fuel pressure regulator, which I have seen in pictures, that appears to utilize a regular coil spring which I would guess you would swap out with a slightly stiffer spring for more pressure in which would yield much more predictable results than attempting to deform the cantilever spring like mine had. I installed a boost reference fuel pressure regulator when I swapped fuel pumps so the stock fuel pressure regulator is completely removed in my current application.

goaliemo, I will have to look but I think I wrote down which wire it was on a schematic. Kolt provided me a schematic but for some reason the wire colors didn't match up. Iirc there are 4 wires in that plug as there is a ground and power for the fuel pump along with a ground reference and signal for the fuel level. I'm also pretty sure the fuel level sensor wires are a smaller gauge wire. So the best bet would be to narrow it down to the two pump power wires and then identify the positive wire with a test light or multi-meter when you turn the key on. I'll see what I have and try to get you a rough sketched diagram.

goaliemo

iTrader: (1)

Right now I'm leaning towards the 320. My buddy was telling me I should just get the 450 since they're in the similar price range.
I doubt if ever need the 450, but it would give me a lot more room if I change my plans with the car later on.

I was planning on an adjustable regulator and removing the stock one.

What are your thoughts on using the return setup from the j body eco guys? Don't really see anything on here of guys doing it on the l61. If its worth it, I rather set it up while the tank is out.

Appreciate the wiring info. Shouldn't be to hard to figure out.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

OTTP sells a BRFPR kit that I think provides you with everything you'd need to do return style if you wanted to. I set mine to regulate the fuel pressure closer to the stock configuration with the regulator back by the fuel tank. People debate the advantages and disadvantages between each configuration but I haven't seen any definitive testing that demonstrates a performance advantage of one setup over the other. I will have a fuel pressure sensor mounted on the end of my fuel rail so will be able to monitor performance once I'm reassembled and running again but haven't been able to test the rear mounted regulator yet.