rntbuck

ok... ruined my motor in the race car, so we are pulling it and going back in with a 2.4. (no worries on wiring, have new ecm and standalone wiring harness, so the rest of any electrical has been deleted) anyhow, in regards to the actual motor removal, I'm planning on dropping the k frame out of the bottom with everything intact. is there anything that i need to know that may cause problems, or be more difficult, or tricks or anything? this is my first on this car so I'm tackling it head on. probably lowering to a dolly and coming out the passenger side.

per search.. there has been link provided several times to gmperformance, I'm assuming its a build book or step by step, however its not in service anymore. anybody have this saved, or another link? I may not need it, but any and all info is great to have. cant ever learn too much. heres one of then threads with the link:https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-2l...bottom-245956/

also, any ideas on how to get direct power to the power steering or what wires to tap into to make that work? once all factory wiring is deleted there is no provisions for power steering but would like to keep it, at least maybe on a toggle, to run it both ways to see which is better. thanks in advance y'all!

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

I just did this with my LSJ. so the l61 should be similiar

Leave the wiring on the motor and disconnect it from the harness instead of unplugging everything.

Drop subframe and pull out the bottom. its really easy to do IMO.

Disconnect the axles FIRST before pulling the motor. I was dumb and left the axles in the hub and dropped the entire subframe and the axles were a PITA to remove.

The driver side axle will leak fluid all over the place. so leave that one installed.

separate the steering rack from the steering column with a hammer and flat head. Mine was super rusted and I pulled some of the steering rack out while dropping it.

royce777

iTrader: (29)

^pretty much what he said. I left the axles attached. I left control arms, knuckles, and steering rack all connected. I disconnected the strut from the knuckle and disconnected the lower sway end link bolt. I zip tied the caliper to the strut spring so its up out of the way. My steering was pretty seized together too so that took a little time. Be sure to soak your 4 engine cradle bolts. They get seized and can be a pain to get out. I ended up breaking the socket from my brand new Kobalt tool set.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

oh yeah. my engine cradle bolts were really bad. My passenger rear one was actually seized inside the subframe so I had to cut it out with a sawzall.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Ditto much of that. I took the axles out of the hubs, and took out the LCA's from the steering knuckle. The other option is to drop the entire strut. Probably about the same either way.

My steering intermediate shaft was seized so i disconnected it WHILE lowering the cradle.

rntbuck

thanks for the all the info... i think I'm on the right track it sounds like. the cool thing is i can literally cut all the wiring out if i want to, as the entire engine bay will be free of any existing wiring. even deleting the fuse box and all.

anybody have any opinion on direct wiring for power steering?