I've heard of people boosting up to 12-14 psi, but I would seriously stop after that.

Any more than 15 psi and that thing is gonna crack.

 

Yup we could put in extra injector bungs for an 8-injector setup (also could make up the fuel rail and bolt up points). Fire me an email if your interested.


As for the factory manifold they can only take so much abuse, GM didnt plan for them to be holding pressure. Im rest assured that mine can take as much boost as you can throw at them. The sheet aluminum and tubing is all made of 0.125" (1/8") 6061 aircraft aluminum and i use a special filler alloy to run all the welds that is considered about 3 times stronger than the standard recommended filler alloy. I also run the welds pretty hot to help the welds dig in deep. I dont agree with cheaping out when it comes to weld strength since thats were all the stress is applied.

Here is some pictures of two manifolds that were completed and shipped out today... both have been custom powdercoated to customer request for no fee extra. The silver manifold is different, its for a custom RWD ecotec setup going into a 1965 sunbeam. The white one is the standard 260 cu in collector supporting a 2.0L supercharged throttle body! enjoy!







Also notice that the head flange supports the factory O-rings, and that you can see inside the white manifolds runners how we sand the insides for a smooth transition from the runner tube to the head port.

 

ima be running 5-7psi on a s20g, think this would be better than my 2.4 mani? flow wise?

also what about the MAP sensor us 2.2/2.5's have? where do those go? and i see you have holes on the manifold, does this mean we have to get out own pressure fitting to screw in there? and the brake booster hose, is there a 1/2" nipple for it?

 

I'm sure it's useless, but has anyone ever tried something like that Naturally Aspirated?

The runner design is so much different. I would like to see it compared to stock.

 

Jn2, thats what the fittings are for on there! 4 in total, one is 1/4" NPT (for your brake booster), and 3 1/8" NPT for accessories like FPR, MAP sensor, BOV. You just need to run brass fittings with them from NPT to barb. As for the MAP sensor, when you remove it from manifold it should have a nipple on it you can put a vac hose on, then just run that vac hose to one of the barb fittings you put on the manifold. And with a short runner manifold like this you end up getting more low end power on a N/A setup.

And i do stock all the copper barb fittings for the brake boost and all that.

 

i would be kinda leary of the MAP just handing by a vacuum hose though...but the rest looks nice.

 

The MAP can be tucked off on the side and mounted anywhere, you could make a mount for it, could zip-tie it out of the way out of site... anything really.

 

hmm, i mean my MAP sensor drops into a hole on the manifold, than you twist it so that a littl peg on the manifold holds it form going off, i have no clue what that thin does, so yeah...yu say i can mount it anywhere? so i would have to drill my own hole on the mani

 

Do you have a picture of how your MAP sensor is?



Im thinkin of the GM MAP sensors like this one... you could put the vac line on that nipple then run the other side to a barb fitting on the manifold...

 

sec lemme go get my spare one and take a shot of it



^^^thats on the manifold



looks like you might be right, i might be able to run a vacuum line to it, and cool cool bout the fittings, thats nice, looks like u built a solid manifold than any idea how it compares to the hahn?

 

Yup your MAP sensor will work with it no problem, just pull that orange gasket off the nipple and BAM your set! It should compare very closely to the hahn manifold as the designs are similar but the price is far less not to mention we powder coat ours as well.

 

nice

 

Do you guys think the ecm would compensate enough to run one of these NA until a tune?

I know the 2.4 mani runs with no problems with a quick pull of the battery cable, not too sure since it's even larger volumes.

I'd order one tonight if I knew that the MAP sensor would work 100%.

 

i dont think so, you might get a CEL, im sure it will run, but expect atleast a CEL to come on,

 

Yup the guarantee 100% that the map sensor will indeed work. It shouldnt have a CEL if the stock throttle body is used since regardless of it being larger in volume it will still hold the same vacuum at idle. Once under WOT vacuum should be at 0 regardless of manifold volume.