Yeah but I somehow feel like there was something else going wrong, or I just have a fluke. I don't know how the car was treated before me and it did come with a intake and fart can. I only have 68k on my car and it was boosted less than 6k. Kinda shitty but it'll be alright here in a month or so when the motor is built. One another note I can't wait to see what really failed.

 

metal chunks of any kind is ominous that you had a major component malfunction. my deepest sympathies, this takes me back to the months before my engine build when little bits of piston came pouring out the oil drain along with the oil and all the engine coolant.

 

Thats the strange thing, when I drained the oil I didn't see any metal at all. Oh well, motor should be pulled tonight if everything goes well.

 

Bump for another question. Does anyone know if the 2.4 still increases power as you go above 7k. My question is do I really need neutral balance shafts if I'm going to be running stock cams? Springs and retainers for sure and I can have a red line of 7500, do I really need to go much higher?

 

you should be able to hold power with the turbo but i don't see the power continuing to build past 7200rpm. and no to the nbs as long as you aren't holding the engine at that high of an rpm.

are you setting your redline at 7500rpm or are you trying to shift at 7500rpm?

 

I dunno, I'm still open to suggestions on a build plan. Seeing that I don't have enough cash flow for cams I'm thinking no to NBS and setting the limiter to 7500. I would like to see a dyno of a turboed 2.4 to see if its still increasing or not but I doubt it is. I'm pretty sure I don't need a sleeved block either, I talk to someone else putting down 400whp,450tq on a stock block. So now it looks like pistons, rod, head studs, and valve springs are the main components I need.

 

Holy ****, Good luck and I hope things work out for you. I am worried now too because I bought mine at 33k and the only problem I've had with it is the AC Compressor going out...

 

You should be fine a lot of people push the le5 including sky/solstices and they usually handle it really well. It's the chance that you have to take, and I didn't boost mine without knowing that a rebuild could be right around the corner.

 

What is it going to cost you to buy and build this new motor?

 

zzp does bottom ends for 4600 shipped just something to think about since it'll be pretty similar pricing regardless since you have to buy most the parts frmo them anyway

 

got a le5 i had for a project that went belly up has around 20,000 miles on it came out of a 06 cobalt email me if ur interested im negotiable on prics of it. its just the longblock and has all the accessories and intake throttle body injectors and fuel rail.

lumocus1@hotmail.com

 

So I finally got it apart to see what really happen and it wasn't pretty. The piston is all chewed up, the steel sleeve in the same cylinder was gone. Metal everywhere, including int he intake manifold. I'm really surprised the turbo looked as good as it did. Here are some pictures to show the damage. Oh and the sleeve and block itself was cracked so no go for rebuilding this one.



.

 

hoooolyyyh shitttt.. that looks like some srs detonation lol

 

Yeah it's not very pretty, I wish I knew the cause of this.

As for a build I think I am just going to get a lower mileage engine, replace all the bearings, get pistons, rods, springs, and head stubs and call it a day. I should be good for 350 to 400 I talked to another guy on here and thats what he did.

 

Can you monitor kr at all u prolly have a issue in that cylinder

 

Through all my data logging I did I never saw any knock.

 

Ya it's not like I did my motor a month ago o wait I did

 

Yeah i agree with you I didn't have to drain my ac system. I just unbolted and moved everything out of the way. Didn't you just put in valvesprings when you put a new motor in??

 

Yea valve springs head studs ported head

 

Does the normal arp head studs work for us, or do we need different ones than the 2.2 and 20's. Also can I use an 08 motor, rods doesn't matter to me because I'm dropping different ones in but are all the sensors the same or not??

 

thats what i was getting at, it may be faster adn about the same price.

i wouldn;t bother finding a lower milage engine, just find the cheapest good block you can find. youre putting all new parts in so dont spend more than you have too.

 

Studs are the same and ya u can use a 08

 

yeah, as long as you have the cyl sleeves measured for clearance and machined before piston install a higher mileage engine will be cheaper and just as good.

 

So even if i get a higher mileage motor I should be able to stick with the stock diameter pistons?? I just don't want to have to bore it out anymore making the sleeves weaker. Bare with me guys this is the first car I have pulled a transmission to change the clutch, and now pulling the motor for a rebuild.

 

you won't have to bore it out but a good machine shop will need to put the crosshatch back on so the rings can spin as the piston rides up and down the cyl.