guppy41

I have a 2007 ss/na and seems like the spark plugs are going..

just wondering what everyone recommends

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

If your boosted go with NGK LFR6A-11
If not, stick with OEM delco plugs

I have made a lot of money and fixed many cars by replacing shitty 'fuel efficient' or 'superfine'(all that bullshit) and putting OEM stuff back on the vehicle

guppy41

okay

thanks !

Ceeker

Choose the spark/gap appropriate for your mod level/altitude/gas quality (RON/Octane)

I run a .035 Gap (the brand name is escaping my drunken memory presently) since i live very close to sea level, boosted, and the best gas around here is 91.

If your NA, and (im assuming) un-modded. i would stick as close to the stock .043 gap as possible. The ACDelco recommended replacement for a 2006 2.4 is a .043 gap

Verbatim recommendation NGK LFR6A-11 is a .044 gap, which is basically as close to the stock/ACdelco gap. so a good choice for a NA/stock.

ZZP turbo kit for boosted 2.4s comes with .033 gap, i opted to run .035, as the gas here is shitty/low altitude, and i wanted to limited retard/knock for tuning etc. a smaller gap, makes the sparks electrical arc, travel a shorter distance, generates a bit more heat/burns better/more power for timing/tuning. Downside is increased fuel compensation (in relation to a larger gap)

If you want to squeeze a tiny (and i do mean tiny) bit more power/optimize for higher grade fuel, run a smaller gap than the factory .043. But otherwise, stay as close as possible to the .043 gap as you can, brands aside of course.

To the best of my knowledge (someone feel free to correct me) GM designs/tunes motors to run on shitty 87 octane/most fuel effcient (for their combined lineup fuel efficiency?) so the factory gap is .043

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

The 2.4L LE5 is designed to run on premium(91-93) but one is able to run a lower grade of fuel if your a cheapass.

The NGK plug I recommended is 1 step colder, thats why it's what most people use in boosted applications...while gap plays a roll in the performance aspect, it's minor compared to having the proper plug for the application.
When I was just a little 2.8 m62 I ran the NGK plug at a .030 gap
With the 2.6" TVS I'm about to put on...who knows how I'll have to go.

As I said before; if boosted, go with NGK LFR6A-11 plug(.030-.035 gap, talk to tuner)
Other than that, go with OEM at OEM gap. If you get plug blowout at upper RPM due to mods, just drop the gap .001 at a time, until you has no more issue

noorj

iTrader: (17)

does the bkr7e plug not work with the LE5? I've heard very good things about that plug and I believe it's one step colder.

Also should you use 2 steps colder plug for boosted E85 applications?

Ceeker

Can you give me a linky/source for the 91-93 comment? I'd like to read it

the highest grade "supreme" folks can get around here is 91 which is why most guys here go meth to bump it to the 125-135+ range (depending on mix)

Too many people here run 87 (cheapest) beat the **** out of their cars, and then wonder why the engine runs like bag of hammers!

verbatim, thanks for the education bud, I just learrned about heat ranges on the NGK website, apparently there is no standard for measure the heat-ranges. Its like a stage kit #, the number is only useful when comparing plugs from the same manufacturer. good to know.

you guys are making me wonder what exact brand i used so i can figure out my heat range!

brb driveway!!

guppy41

and my knowledge on the matter keeps growing !

thanks everyone !

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

I have no knowledge on the bkr7e
And I do not know of a 2step colder plug
And I know even less about e85 stuff

Premium is recommend via the owners manual, but I believe(very limited in tuning) that there are different cells that the pcm jumps to when it gets knock due to octane(correct me if wrong smarter people); and that the compression is 10.4:1
In my area we have 91-93 depending on the station
I personally only use shell 93, BP 93, or phillips66 92-93

NEVER USE QT for fuel; I know of entirely too many people that have had issues with it


On the heat range, I have never thought about standards for them but it makes sense; companies do some weird things for no reason what so ever.
-try diagnosing a vehicle pre-obd2(standards of dlc location and code standardization) on some jap or other foreign job...can you say ************? I have throw many a hammer at things due to lack of standardization.

It is fun when you get a new(er) chevrolet van with wheel speed sensor or traction control code...The ONLY way to diagnose them is actually to throw parts at it and see if it fixes it; I have spent hours how to get around this and actually be able to diagnose the specific part, but it is impossible... That [throwing parts at a car] is a very large pet-peeve of mine, and I am the diagnostic tech at my work so I get stuck with them...
Thanks Obama

-end slight bullshit day at work rant-

Ceeker

All good bai!

Better rant it out here!

I also read "premium" in the owners manual, but there is just one type of book for California/rest of USA/Canada

So, "premium" is subjective, premium for you is 93. Premium here is 91

How hard would it be for the technical documentation writer @ GM to write. "Premium fuel recommended, 93 AKI" fucken tards

You mean to say, you can't test a circuit /dtc **** on a wheel speed/traction control code? LOL @ buy more parts! Silly GM making it harder for car guys every inch of the way ! Fack!

We have a thread in the Canadian section, trying to figure out THE scientifically best station here. Shell is one of our top contenders as well.

I run a NGK .035 btw, not sure on heat range.

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Use stock AC Delco or NGK equivalent.

The BKRs are different reach than what we need (they technically work but stock ones are better)

Even on 13 lbs on E85 i was using stock plug.

guppy41

everything changed and running good

went with ac delco

pjk91

For boost use the ILTR6A-8G. It's OEM for mazdaspeed3. Way better than POS LFR6A-11.

noorj

iTrader: (17)

is it a step colder?

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

What is so much better about it and why is the LFR plug a "POS"?

The way Im seeing it:
I can get 4 LFR plugs for the price of 1 of your ILTR
The LFR plug is a proven copper design that is easily gappable
The LFR plug has been working phenomenal for multiple people over the past few years
The LFR plug works perfect for my LE5 blowing way past 20psi on the 2.6 tvs

noorj

iTrader: (17)

where do you get LFR6A-11 for $2.50? I pay $6 for mine

Verbatim

iTrader: (1)

Well; if u go by taxes, they are like 3$something.

I get them thru my work

noorj

iTrader: (17)

what are your LFR's gapped at? I think it comes .035 right?

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

the -11 at the end of that part number you gave indicates a pregap of 1.1mm

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

noorj

iTrader: (17)

wow good info spawne

DFZ24

iTrader: (5)

nice! thank you all the info. this might or i hope this fixes the problem that i have of misfire at idle (my plugs are gap near stock).

pjk91

I started with the LFR plug when I first supercharged my LE5. For whatever reason, I never could get them to work well in my car. And yes, they were gapped. I ran those plugs for about 75k of my 85k boosted miles before I switched to ILTR. I got better gas mileage, better throttle response and no misfires. The ILTRs seemed to be holding up better. I normally replaced the LFRs every 10-15k miles and the ILTRs looked fine at 10k. If you're having success with the LFRs then by all means, keep them. They are definitely cheaper. I could never get them to work well with mine.

I'm not supercharged anymore. Went back to stock so I can sell the car and get a diesel truck to pull my toys.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Pretty simple explanation to that, copper plugs dont last nearly as long as iridium plugs do. Copper has a lower melting point compared to iridium, which makes them a terrible choice for boosted car's. However that being said, copper is better at dissipating heat, and a better conductor of electricity, which means that the plug tip cools off rapidly and produces a stronger spark. But in the days of modern spark plugs this advantage has all but been erased now that we have resistor plugs, fine tip or "fine wire" plugs and COP ignition systems. Iridium and even platinum (such as the G Power platinum from NGK) are far superior to copper plugs in almost every way.

Steviodaddio

iTrader: (1)

That's a neat read.