coolant temp
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From: troy,michigan
coolant temp
my digital display on my inturment cluster dosnt read coolant temp right now for some odd reason but my interceptor gauge reads it just fine . its not cycling the fans like it has a coolant temp sensor fault im wondering if you guys have ever had this issue it might be a fluke but who knows. havent really had time to look into it yet
It can indicate a bad thermostat if your just getting a flat-lined reading. Since you have an interceptor, monitor the coolant temp. If you get readings under 180 after you are warmed up then your tstat is bad. I had a tstat issue and the temp would fall to 165ish on the highway and would only rise at idle. Normal operating temps should be between 180-200ish.
anyone know if theres a HOW-TO on changing that?? mines doing that now. Its an on and off thing tho. one day ill have no temp reading and no AC, the next its fine. I cant find a how to on changing a thermostat.
I just had this issue with my 2.4 about 2 weeks ago. I was in a hurry and just threw a sensor in it on my lunch break. It did not fix the issue; since you are reading the temps via obd scan device, its pretty much gotta be the thermostat. And the thermostat code that set is just another verification that its the thermostat.
The thermostat isn't too hard to do; just a sprung hose clamp and 2 bolts. I took my time with it and I had it done in about 15 minutes.
Pop the lower rad hose off, drain the coolant.
get an extension about a foot long and a socket, buzz the tstat housing bolts off.
remove and replace tstat
reinstall housing, hose, clamp
fill up coolant reservoir, let her burp for a little bit
start her up, turn on your heater to full blast, add to coolant reservoir as necessary
let get up to operating temperature/thermostat open ~180°F
Test drive
The thermostat isn't too hard to do; just a sprung hose clamp and 2 bolts. I took my time with it and I had it done in about 15 minutes.
Pop the lower rad hose off, drain the coolant.
get an extension about a foot long and a socket, buzz the tstat housing bolts off.
remove and replace tstat
reinstall housing, hose, clamp
fill up coolant reservoir, let her burp for a little bit
start her up, turn on your heater to full blast, add to coolant reservoir as necessary
let get up to operating temperature/thermostat open ~180°F
Test drive
my problem last week was.. COOLANT TEMP --- F and my fans wouldn't go off, it happen to me once before but i just unplugged the negative on the battery and it reset it.. then then next time i got a check engine light. My friends code reader told me it was the sensor, so i changed it over the weekend and no problems yet =)
For me its the temp not really going over 160 degrees.. kinds like the thermostats is stuck open or sumtin.. took it to autozone and the reader said it was low coolant temp reading, but it happans sparatically.
I just had this problem. I changed the coolant sensor and also did the thermostat at the same time. The problem is the thermostat. The stock one has a rubber seal in the part that opens and closes. Overtime the seal will get bad and in my case it wasnt allowing it to close all the way. This makes the car run cooler then it should, throw a code and shut off your ac. On my car looking at the engine on the right hand side towards the the fire wall there is a 90 that has two bolts on the top and a large rubber hose going into it. Remove those two bolts and pry the hose and 90 back to get to the thermostat. sorry I dont have any pics of when I did it but if you want I could take a pic of where it is so it would be an easier find for you. the hardest part of it was lining the two bolts back up and making sure there were no leaks...
Having your thermostat stick open can also prevent you from going closed loop. If these are like some of the other GM's you can run a long time with a bad stat before it ever throws the code. The problem with that is you don't realize anything is wrong other than the fact your gas mileage suffers because of them not going closed loop
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