eram electric supercharger
09-27-2007, 03:52 PM
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eram electric supercharger
Has anyone tried one of these? there about 300 bucks and according to the website www.electricsupercharger.com it can produce more horsepower by forcing more air through either your stock air box or any aftermarket cold air system. I'm actually thinking about purchasing one to see if it really works like they say it does.
09-30-2007, 04:34 AM
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I read it alittle bit. read closely. The front page says "GARUNTEED 15 HP" bla bla, then the cars it shows gained like maybe 8hp (AT THE CRANK) 15hp to the wheels and 8hp to the crank are waaay waay different. and thats giving them the benifit of the doubt that their testimonials aren't lies too. lol
09-30-2007, 04:46 AM
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Like I said before no electric superchargers are any good besides Thomas Knight Superchargers, you want see any power from these crappy add at the back of magazines superchargers.
10-04-2007, 01:09 AM
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hmm according to them they have one for my car.. and i looked at the pics to install it an it looks like its the 2.2l lol http://www.electricsupercharger.com/...3586&year=2006
10-04-2007, 01:15 AM
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hmm according to them they have one for my car.. and i looked at the pics to install it an it looks like its the 2.2l lol http://www.electricsupercharger.com/...3586&year=2006
http://www.electricsupercharger.com/...3035&year=2006
this looks legit to some degree.
10-04-2007, 06:30 AM
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A guy had them on his but haven't seen him on the site in a while. if you search " dual e-rams" i'm sure something will come up. Claimed he had dyno's of them. But he said they really weren't worth the hp/$. Was something less then an intake yields.
04-10-2008, 05:36 PM
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Hello folks.
I'm the guy with the dual e-rams on my 2.4. The pic on the e-ram website is from my car.
Here's the straight skinny on my e-rams. Yes they work. If you doubt it see the dyno sheets and 1/4 mile slips on my gallery - these were done before my high-voltage mod.
However, e-rams are not a straight bolt-on as advertised. For about $660 they currently produce about 12whp and 10tq, but the gain is from idle to redline - all across the power curve. Before my Wester's tune, if I would nail the accelerator to the floor at low rpm my Balt would hesitate as they pumped in air faster than the MAF could adjust. After the tune, they give me instant throttle response.
After I first installed them I had my 2.4 auto dyno'd and only got about half the aforementioned gains. So I contacted the e-ram folks for advise. After measuring the voltage across the e-rams, I found that it dropped to 12.5v - substantially less than the 13.8 that they need to perform as advertised. The solution was to add an additional 2v helper battery, doubling their output. At 14.5v (my current setup) it will more than double the previous hp/tq gains, as the rpm of the turbine went from about 20,000rpm to 28,000rpm. An engine is a dynamic system, using air as you are trying to force more in. Therefore, boost pressure increases geometrically with turbine speed.
If you do decide to get an e-ram, be advised that the small relay that they send with the unit is junk. It looks like only a 25 amp relay. I ditched the 2 small relays that came with the kit and instead, used a starter relay that I picked up at the local auto parts store.
Here's a thread with a dyno chart that explains what I did and the results I got.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...=e-rams&page=2
So far, my e-rams are holding up well, but electric supercharging is not a bolt-on mod. There is no easy, quick and/or cheap way to add extra power through F/I. Anyone who says anything differently is lying.
I'm the guy with the dual e-rams on my 2.4. The pic on the e-ram website is from my car.
Here's the straight skinny on my e-rams. Yes they work. If you doubt it see the dyno sheets and 1/4 mile slips on my gallery - these were done before my high-voltage mod.
However, e-rams are not a straight bolt-on as advertised. For about $660 they currently produce about 12whp and 10tq, but the gain is from idle to redline - all across the power curve. Before my Wester's tune, if I would nail the accelerator to the floor at low rpm my Balt would hesitate as they pumped in air faster than the MAF could adjust. After the tune, they give me instant throttle response.
After I first installed them I had my 2.4 auto dyno'd and only got about half the aforementioned gains. So I contacted the e-ram folks for advise. After measuring the voltage across the e-rams, I found that it dropped to 12.5v - substantially less than the 13.8 that they need to perform as advertised. The solution was to add an additional 2v helper battery, doubling their output. At 14.5v (my current setup) it will more than double the previous hp/tq gains, as the rpm of the turbine went from about 20,000rpm to 28,000rpm. An engine is a dynamic system, using air as you are trying to force more in. Therefore, boost pressure increases geometrically with turbine speed.
If you do decide to get an e-ram, be advised that the small relay that they send with the unit is junk. It looks like only a 25 amp relay. I ditched the 2 small relays that came with the kit and instead, used a starter relay that I picked up at the local auto parts store.
Here's a thread with a dyno chart that explains what I did and the results I got.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...=e-rams&page=2
So far, my e-rams are holding up well, but electric supercharging is not a bolt-on mod. There is no easy, quick and/or cheap way to add extra power through F/I. Anyone who says anything differently is lying.
04-10-2008, 05:43 PM
#19
Hello folks.
I'm the guy with the dual e-rams on my 2.4. The pic on the e-ram website is from my car.
Here's the straight skinny on my e-rams. Yes they work. If you doubt it see the dyno sheets and 1/4 mile slips on my gallery - these were done before my high-voltage mod.
However, e-rams are not a straight bolt-on as advertised. For about $660 they currently produce about 12whp and 10tq, but the gain is from idle to redline - all across the power curve. Before my Wester's tune, if I would nail the accelerator to the floor at low rpm my Balt would hesitate as they pumped in air faster than the MAF could adjust. After the tune, they give me instant throttle response.
After I first installed them I had my 2.4 auto dyno'd and only got about half the aforementioned gains. So I contacted the e-ram folks for advise. After measuring the voltage across the e-rams, I found that it dropped to 12.5v - substantially less than the 13.8 that they need to perform as advertised. The solution was to add an additional 2v helper battery, doubling their output. At 14.5v (my current setup) it will more than double the previous hp/tq gains, as the rpm of the turbine went from about 20,000rpm to 28,000rpm. An engine is a dynamic system, using air as you are trying to force more in. Therefore, boost pressure increases geometrically with turbine speed.
If you do decide to get an e-ram, be advised that the small relay that they send with the unit is junk. It looks like only a 25 amp relay. I ditched the 2 small relays that came with the kit and instead, used a starter relay that I picked up at the local auto parts store.
Here's a thread with a dyno chart that explains what I did and the results I got.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...=e-rams&page=2
So far, my e-rams are holding up well, but electric supercharging is not a bolt-on mod. There is no easy, quick and/or cheap way to add extra power through F/I. Anyone who says anything differently is lying.
I'm the guy with the dual e-rams on my 2.4. The pic on the e-ram website is from my car.
Here's the straight skinny on my e-rams. Yes they work. If you doubt it see the dyno sheets and 1/4 mile slips on my gallery - these were done before my high-voltage mod.
However, e-rams are not a straight bolt-on as advertised. For about $660 they currently produce about 12whp and 10tq, but the gain is from idle to redline - all across the power curve. Before my Wester's tune, if I would nail the accelerator to the floor at low rpm my Balt would hesitate as they pumped in air faster than the MAF could adjust. After the tune, they give me instant throttle response.
After I first installed them I had my 2.4 auto dyno'd and only got about half the aforementioned gains. So I contacted the e-ram folks for advise. After measuring the voltage across the e-rams, I found that it dropped to 12.5v - substantially less than the 13.8 that they need to perform as advertised. The solution was to add an additional 2v helper battery, doubling their output. At 14.5v (my current setup) it will more than double the previous hp/tq gains, as the rpm of the turbine went from about 20,000rpm to 28,000rpm. An engine is a dynamic system, using air as you are trying to force more in. Therefore, boost pressure increases geometrically with turbine speed.
If you do decide to get an e-ram, be advised that the small relay that they send with the unit is junk. It looks like only a 25 amp relay. I ditched the 2 small relays that came with the kit and instead, used a starter relay that I picked up at the local auto parts store.
Here's a thread with a dyno chart that explains what I did and the results I got.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...=e-rams&page=2
So far, my e-rams are holding up well, but electric supercharging is not a bolt-on mod. There is no easy, quick and/or cheap way to add extra power through F/I. Anyone who says anything differently is lying.
LOL at spending so much for that
04-11-2008, 05:51 PM
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Thank you, yes. My e-rams generate more hp/dollar than my Corsa Cat back, and they do it over the entire rpm range. The only down side, depending on your perspective, is that they only work at WOT. So I don't get any performance gain from them whatsoever when accelerating at less than full throttle - so they are not burning any extra fuel, and putting any extra wear and tear on my engine when not in use, which is 99.9% of the time. I actually consider this a big plus, while many would not.
Since my car is a daily commuter, that I also use for business, gas mileage is very important to me, as it is for most folks. Think of it like a tiny shot of nitrous that is virtually free to use and the tanks never need refilling. I'll be the first to admit that e-rams are not for most people. That's why I try to give both sides so you can decide if it's right for you.
My personality is that if I were to decide on a true F/I system, I would probably go with a small Thomas Knight electric s/c with a centrifugal compressor (running only 5-6lbs boost, and not one of his big electric powered roots blower systems pushing 20+lbs of boost. I'll bet you didn't know they made those, did you.) I like the concept of box stock reliability and gas mileage when the s/c is not in use. At 51 yrs of age, I've had fast toys such as: numerous motocross bikes, a turbocharged drag bike, a modded Pontiac GTO, and so forth, so I've gotten the mega-hp-at-any-cost bug out of my system, choosing instead a more conservative approach. To each his own.
What I object to is a narrow minded, follow-the-leader, one-size-fits-all approach to vehicle mods that I thought this forum was above. What if someone would want to detune their engine for max mileage? I might not agree with their reasoning or their approach, but I'm certainly not going to dis them for their choices, even though they may be quite different from my own. Quite the contrary I applaud anyone for having the courage to think outside the box and try an unproven and controversial approach - it's how we all learn.
Since my car is a daily commuter, that I also use for business, gas mileage is very important to me, as it is for most folks. Think of it like a tiny shot of nitrous that is virtually free to use and the tanks never need refilling. I'll be the first to admit that e-rams are not for most people. That's why I try to give both sides so you can decide if it's right for you.
My personality is that if I were to decide on a true F/I system, I would probably go with a small Thomas Knight electric s/c with a centrifugal compressor (running only 5-6lbs boost, and not one of his big electric powered roots blower systems pushing 20+lbs of boost. I'll bet you didn't know they made those, did you.) I like the concept of box stock reliability and gas mileage when the s/c is not in use. At 51 yrs of age, I've had fast toys such as: numerous motocross bikes, a turbocharged drag bike, a modded Pontiac GTO, and so forth, so I've gotten the mega-hp-at-any-cost bug out of my system, choosing instead a more conservative approach. To each his own.
What I object to is a narrow minded, follow-the-leader, one-size-fits-all approach to vehicle mods that I thought this forum was above. What if someone would want to detune their engine for max mileage? I might not agree with their reasoning or their approach, but I'm certainly not going to dis them for their choices, even though they may be quite different from my own. Quite the contrary I applaud anyone for having the courage to think outside the box and try an unproven and controversial approach - it's how we all learn.
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