Making a list...
#26
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Option B went well, tapped frontside top on the passenger side and used 1/8th tap to build my threads then used thread tape to keep it sealed. ZZP makes a nice kit!
Phenolic gasket also went well, although the LSJ Head must use different bolts as the kit of bolts and spacers, nice as they were didn't fit **** all on a LE5 head. Luckily, I had a pack of large washers for the underside side bolt thingy and some longer bolts kicking around or it was another trip to the hardware store.
GMPP exhaust...ahhhhh...that's better. I can hear you now. And my blower sound is back yay. Gotta be the coolest sound in the business.
Leaking by the IC pump, gonna go fix that up in a bit and call it a good day.
Phenolic gasket also went well, although the LSJ Head must use different bolts as the kit of bolts and spacers, nice as they were didn't fit **** all on a LE5 head. Luckily, I had a pack of large washers for the underside side bolt thingy and some longer bolts kicking around or it was another trip to the hardware store.
GMPP exhaust...ahhhhh...that's better. I can hear you now. And my blower sound is back yay. Gotta be the coolest sound in the business.
Leaking by the IC pump, gonna go fix that up in a bit and call it a good day.
#28
They are much thicker and have Allen heads, the original bolts I needed to replace were the 1 inch along each end and up between the embedded bolts on the head itself. I had another type of 1 inch that had good thread from tip to the underside of the head but really 30mm (inch and a quarter) would likely have been much better.
Anyways got pulled over for having fun so no vids tonight as I was lucky to drive away with a very stern warning.
She has lost a bit of power it seems, but much more enjoyable to drive and so much quieter. ANd that blower sound is electric!
Anyways got pulled over for having fun so no vids tonight as I was lucky to drive away with a very stern warning.
She has lost a bit of power it seems, but much more enjoyable to drive and so much quieter. ANd that blower sound is electric!
#29
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iTrader: (6)
Removed the LS4 TB today, got tired of trying to tune around the idle surges and rough shifting. I was playing a hunch that the ETC or TPS was interferring with the normal shift points and firmness oif the shift and so far it is looking like a good guess.
The LSJ TB feels like it is sucking air through a straw in comparison, like I lost 50HP. Changed the tone and pitch of the exhaust as well, a bit quieter too.
The LSJ TB feels like it is sucking air through a straw in comparison, like I lost 50HP. Changed the tone and pitch of the exhaust as well, a bit quieter too.
#31
I've had similar issues recently with the LSJ TB so I'm starting to think it is my MAF sensor itself and the location of the filter. I've gone weeks without issue using the LS4, had no problems at all so i know it can work. I now clean it once a week, sensor and filter. My inner wheel well plastics are in rough shape and the filter is more exposed to elements than it ought to be. Next on the list.
A taper right at the sensor sounds like it could give some false readings, I'm no physicist but I'd imagine the air would accelerate and compress through the taper and would loose the laminar flow required for an accurate reading... but you'll find out soon enough.
A taper right at the sensor sounds like it could give some false readings, I'm no physicist but I'd imagine the air would accelerate and compress through the taper and would loose the laminar flow required for an accurate reading... but you'll find out soon enough.
#32
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I've had similar issues recently with the LSJ TB so I'm starting to think it is my MAF sensor itself and the location of the filter. I've gone weeks without issue using the LS4, had no problems at all so i know it can work. I now clean it once a week, sensor and filter. My inner wheel well plastics are in rough shape and the filter is more exposed to elements than it ought to be. Next on the list.
A taper right at the sensor sounds like it could give some false readings, I'm no physicist but I'd imagine the air would accelerate and compress through the taper and would loose the laminar flow required for an accurate reading... but you'll find out soon enough.
A taper right at the sensor sounds like it could give some false readings, I'm no physicist but I'd imagine the air would accelerate and compress through the taper and would loose the laminar flow required for an accurate reading... but you'll find out soon enough.
#35
Up to 9.8 PSI of boost from 8 flat at WOT.
Nice highway kill from a stoplight vs. newer model VW GTI, hadn't planned on it but he opened up and had 100ft on me before I passed him with ease a couple hundred feet later. I figure they are 180whp so even at worst I had 50hp to spare.
LSJ TB keeps doing exact same **** as the LS4 was doing so gonna clean my MAF again today and might throw the LS4 back on and see how she breaths.
Nice highway kill from a stoplight vs. newer model VW GTI, hadn't planned on it but he opened up and had 100ft on me before I passed him with ease a couple hundred feet later. I figure they are 180whp so even at worst I had 50hp to spare.
LSJ TB keeps doing exact same **** as the LS4 was doing so gonna clean my MAF again today and might throw the LS4 back on and see how she breaths.
#36
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Also how much boost do you get with your LS4 TB VS. LSJ TB?
#38
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I just finished porting my SC for the LS4, put on my dual pass and phenolic spacer. I will finish setting it up in the morning and and hopefully get out for a test run.
#39
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I just got the LS4 TB installed. You weren't kidding when you said the LSJ was like sucking air through a straw. Holy cats! I love the way this TB changed the response I definitely had to start going easy on the throttle at low rpms to stay out of boost, but I am digging less input for throttle response. I can learn to control my foot I think I didn't get a chance to tune my MAF high or log any WOT to redline, but it appears my boost has stayed the same. I just tuned the low MAF tables because it was a little lean and the high is ok because I was running rich anyway up top.
OttawaMark. What kind of issues are you having with the idle? If you want to take a look at my tune pm me your email and I will send it to you. I am not having LS4 problems right now and its idling great with no surging or hanging issues.
I also set up the phenolic spacer and dual pass. I am not set up to log IAT2s yet so I don't know the gains, but I thought it was a necessary upgrade with my setup. Belt was tight, tight after that spacer.
OttawaMark. What kind of issues are you having with the idle? If you want to take a look at my tune pm me your email and I will send it to you. I am not having LS4 problems right now and its idling great with no surging or hanging issues.
I also set up the phenolic spacer and dual pass. I am not set up to log IAT2s yet so I don't know the gains, but I thought it was a necessary upgrade with my setup. Belt was tight, tight after that spacer.
#41
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If I run into these issues with either the LSJ or LS4 TB's then I know who to talk to. I'd love to know what the issue was once you compare his tune to yours. Taking mental notes! Don't mind me.
#43
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I'm really looking forward to the tuning once the build is done. Hardest part is piecing everything together and making sure you're not missing something. Ottowa, I read in another thread that you had issues with the pulley fitment being that you are an auto? Thats with the 3.1" right?
#44
It is with all Auto Tranny models, from ZZP install instructions:
18. For automatic cars only. You will find that there is an interference issue between the blower pulley and the radiator support. There are a couple ways to resolve this. Set the blower on the manifold without a gasket getting it aligned as close as possible to its proper location. You will now see where the pulley touches the radiator support. Using a marker, mark around where the pulley touches the car. Remove the blower and cover the intake opening to prevent anything getting down in it while you work on the car. At this point you can use a dremel tool and cut ź outside of your marked lines to make a pocket that the pulley can sit in. Using touch up paint to cover the cut area to prevent rusting. This will not be highly visible when normally looking at your car. You could also cover the area with a dense cloth or towel and using a mallet to deform the area to clear the pulley.
18. For automatic cars only. You will find that there is an interference issue between the blower pulley and the radiator support. There are a couple ways to resolve this. Set the blower on the manifold without a gasket getting it aligned as close as possible to its proper location. You will now see where the pulley touches the radiator support. Using a marker, mark around where the pulley touches the car. Remove the blower and cover the intake opening to prevent anything getting down in it while you work on the car. At this point you can use a dremel tool and cut ź outside of your marked lines to make a pocket that the pulley can sit in. Using touch up paint to cover the cut area to prevent rusting. This will not be highly visible when normally looking at your car. You could also cover the area with a dense cloth or towel and using a mallet to deform the area to clear the pulley.
#45
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Sounds simple enough. I'm going to shoot them an email to see if the lost bolts and need for drilling issues have been resolved since 2010 which is when you purchased your kit. The easier the better since its my DD.
#46
Installed all 3 new mounts today, took 4 hours and wasn't all that bad actually. My made in Vietnam front tranny mount lower bolt hole that threaded through engine and tranny wouldn't accept the original bolt but thankfully the hole was 2 sided and didn't terminate in the block somewhere and I had a long enough spare bolt and nut and was able to use it as a ghetto mod. All the old mounts were cracked and malleable, glad I changed them. Vibes are almost gone, so I'm getting closer...next ZZP purchase is the Ingalls stiffy mount.
Had a look finally at hhrfreeks tune, holy **** almost nothing is the same between ours. Have a new to me blower in the mail and when it gets here I'll crack it open and use my snout end with ZZP modular pulley system and add the ZZP coupler onto the newer blower (has perfect coating on blades, mine are not) and then reinstall LS4 TB and retune from there.
Have an order for inner and outer tie rods, mine have slight bends in them...replaced sway bar end links last weekend, one was bent on a 15* angle. Only things left that haven't been changed or on order are lower control arms and knuckles fawk. Poor balt has had the front end kicked to **** on these **** poor roads up north.
Option B, it works as advertised.
Had a look finally at hhrfreeks tune, holy **** almost nothing is the same between ours. Have a new to me blower in the mail and when it gets here I'll crack it open and use my snout end with ZZP modular pulley system and add the ZZP coupler onto the newer blower (has perfect coating on blades, mine are not) and then reinstall LS4 TB and retune from there.
Have an order for inner and outer tie rods, mine have slight bends in them...replaced sway bar end links last weekend, one was bent on a 15* angle. Only things left that haven't been changed or on order are lower control arms and knuckles fawk. Poor balt has had the front end kicked to **** on these **** poor roads up north.
Option B, it works as advertised.
#47
Inner and outer tie rods have arrived, along with a new MAF.
And, my new to me blower with a 6 rib ZZP 2.9 pulley. Hmmm
Anyways...I wonder if ZZP stage 2 belt would still be tight enough with the 2.9, that phenolic gasket sure does make it even tighter so i dunno. All academic as tuning first!
hhrfreek, did you change belts?
And, my new to me blower with a 6 rib ZZP 2.9 pulley. Hmmm
Anyways...I wonder if ZZP stage 2 belt would still be tight enough with the 2.9, that phenolic gasket sure does make it even tighter so i dunno. All academic as tuning first!
hhrfreek, did you change belts?
#48
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Inner and outer tie rods have arrived, along with a new MAF.
And, my new to me blower with a 6 rib ZZP 2.9 pulley. Hmmm
Anyways...I wonder if ZZP stage 2 belt would still be tight enough with the 2.9, that phenolic gasket sure does make it even tighter so i dunno. All academic as tuning first!
hhrfreek, did you change belts?
And, my new to me blower with a 6 rib ZZP 2.9 pulley. Hmmm
Anyways...I wonder if ZZP stage 2 belt would still be tight enough with the 2.9, that phenolic gasket sure does make it even tighter so i dunno. All academic as tuning first!
hhrfreek, did you change belts?
With the phenolic spacer you may be ok. I had to remove 3 of the 5 washers that I spaced the A/C with because it was too tight. Try it and let me know how it goes. You will know if your belt is slipping while you data log. You will see your boost sporadically rise and fall or your boost pressure will be the same or lower. I noticed about a 1.5 psi gain from the 3.1 to 2.9.
Also with a bit more tuning I have the LS4 tb working great. I love the throttle response.
#49
Crafty, so even if it doesn't I can throw a few washers on and tighten it up.
Gonna throw the LS4 back on this weekend and use your tune as a guide and see if I can't tune out the 'cruise control' effect and bouncy rpms off idle. I've lost a ton of power since its removal and the 3" exhaust being removed.
The 2.9 can wait until the week after, I'm doing an complete ATF change out (from Wynns Synthetic to Mobil 1 syth) for my tranny along with a pan drop and filter change.
Gonna throw the LS4 back on this weekend and use your tune as a guide and see if I can't tune out the 'cruise control' effect and bouncy rpms off idle. I've lost a ton of power since its removal and the 3" exhaust being removed.
The 2.9 can wait until the week after, I'm doing an complete ATF change out (from Wynns Synthetic to Mobil 1 syth) for my tranny along with a pan drop and filter change.
#50
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Crafty, so even if it doesn't I can throw a few washers on and tighten it up.
Gonna throw the LS4 back on this weekend and use your tune as a guide and see if I can't tune out the 'cruise control' effect and bouncy rpms off idle. I've lost a ton of power since its removal and the 3" exhaust being removed.
Gonna throw the LS4 back on this weekend and use your tune as a guide and see if I can't tune out the 'cruise control' effect and bouncy rpms off idle. I've lost a ton of power since its removal and the 3" exhaust being removed.
Since I sent that to you I have altered the following:
ETC Scalar 3688
A while back I went switched to the stock speed density tables, but forgot I removed a ton of timing in the low end area due to knock. I added almost all of it back and my car feels way frickin better in low end with no kr. I was having tuning issues with the ZZP speed density tables. After I switched to maf only and stock speed density, it has been smooth sailing.
I also zerod out my spark correction for gas and run my timing off the H and L octane tables. It just seems to make the tuning adjustments easier.
I am also not running LTFT. The tune is spot on now so I am just running STFT.