A couple Qss

Is your 2.9 a 6rib? Any issues with the 5 rib belts we have?

And I was reading your post over in the LSJ section, are you still reading IATs off the MAF? I bought a bosch MAP with integrated IAT and plugged it into the manifold and tapped the MAP 5v and MAF IAT frequency and now have IATs measured post boost. For all the work you've done, this is something you ought to do, you'll not regret.

 

Yeah its a 6 rib pulley i think zzp only made 3.4 and 3.1 in the 5 rib. It lines up perfectly on the inner most ribs.

I also had no idea how important IAT2s were until i read into it further. Thats the main reason I did the dual pass and phenolic spacer to support the 2.9. I am going to set it up with a stock 2.5 bar tmap sensor off the lsj and splice it into our harness. The zzp kit allows no way of monitoring the iat2s. It will be a big advantage for timing when i get that set up next week. When i pulled the manifold to install the phen spacer i popped out the metal plug that was put in at zzp im guessing to block off the tmap sensor. I put in a temporary plug that i can pull from the outside so i can just plug in the sensor when i get it

 

Dropped the tranny pan and changed the atf filter tonight, then cycled through 22L of Mobil1 Syth ATF to purge the old Wynn's ATF completely. What a messy job. Old fluid was a year old and had around 20,000 KMs of boosted fun, had gone slightly brown and had a metallic tinge to it. No large debris, some black carbon like super fine **** of the magnet though. Reused gasket, fram included a very cheap cork gasket but the OE was in great shape and easily superior. Went for a spin and she was happy to have new blood for sure.

Last weekend I threw on the new MAF sensor, on a hunch that the old one was not reading right. Bingo, I had modified my tune using hhrfreeks LS4 TB #s but was still getting all the usual problems but now I can let off the gas and it doesn't coast along at 1500rpm anymore.

I have a nasty tip in stumble though, can't just drop the hammer or she burps. Thats next on the tuning list.

Next up for parts is still the Ingalls stiffy damper and 2 oxygen sensors from ZZP.

 

Did a compression test finally, 150 across the board. I can't blame leaky rings for anything.

AC compressor seized up, blew my belt so I'm back on 3.4 pulley. The phenolic gasket pushes out the manifold some and I had to pull out the mallet again to make clearance for the larger pulley.

Logged a bit tonight, KR is back...I'm at the point where I really wish I'd gone turbo. I could pay another tuner, or get meth but I'm tired of spending coin and for all I've spent now I could have a stage 3 turbo and a rebuilt tranny.

 

Dude that sucks DD or WOT knock? Have you lowered your AFR when in PE? I am not sure what others are doing, but I run ~11.8. I think you're running closer to 13ish? That would be optimal, but try going a bit richer(~12) and see what happens. It may be a good cooling mod to run a bit richer with our compression ratio. Check plug gap. Only other thing I can think of is log the knock to see if it is all cylinders or a specific one.

Yeah I am spending a lot too, but I am learning a ton, so I don't worry about it too much. There are a ton of faster cars out there, but I like really like the modding/uniqueness aspect of this. I am pulling my motor this winter and building/porting it so if I do go turbo I can really make big power without blowing it. Mainly I am building it though so I can autoX it. I am going to keep running the m62 for a while and slap a 2.6" on it in the spring.

 

Hey can you share your tune with me? I'd like to check it out. With a log file and config.

 

Emailed ya my tune. KR logged yesterday, it was so bad i knew that my IC pump must have been blowing bubbles. It was. I'll need to relog this week when I know 100% that my pump is pumping. Even then I'll likely have some KR during DD, hardly ever experience it WOT. I've resigned myself to the fact that all that vibration and shitty running isn't mechanically related, as every now and again it will pull silky smooth and have killer power. Option B has worked good, but not perfect I guess.

 

IC stopped pumping again, been good for **** and got me right pissed off. I went full retard and nuked the ****** from orbit, just to be sure.

Pulled all my plumbing, reworked it all and rigged up a system that returns into the option B tank through the 1/2 overflow. And then to make sure it worked i added a 120v hydroponic pump and an inverter and rigged that so it pumped out the OptB tank and through the HE and into the cores.

And holy ****, I've got flow. Maybe even too much, it is 600GPH rated which I believe is same as that POS bosch (when it actually flows). Nicest thing of all is being able to see the flow work its way back to the tank and know for sure the ******* thing pumps.

I was worried the 1/2" return would be a constriction, but it pisses out of that sucker like a ****.

Next up is to retry the bosch in place of the hydro pump and ditch the inverter.

I think I have the location right and the extra 2L of fluid would be a nice bonus.

 

I'd love to try the TVS but was told I would have to bring my car to their shop for them to fab up a kit. I can't remember which vendor that was. Is the fitment that different from an m62? My 2.4 is a manual btw.

I'm going to order the hpt pro suite when it comes time to get my tune done. I've heard issues with the canned ZZP tune.

 

M-62 to TVS is 100% fab free, save the tune and some minor tweaking of the MAP sensor location on the intake manifold, if you choose to mount the MAP in that location. Manual means your engine isn't tilted forward 1.5 inches, makes it all even simpler.

Save your coin, go Turbo. Less work, less engine stress, less heat, more power, more $$$ in your pocket.

I did SC to be different and take the road less traveled, knowing what I know now I'd save the aggravation and Turbo it.

 

Bought a spare head, sent to Euthenasia for porting. Going to buy some hardware for him to custom fit, 1+mm int and xst valves, springs and Ti retainers from Patriot Performance.

Looks like I'll be going the ZZP camshaft route as well, and if I can swing it JE(or wiseco) 9:1 pistons and ZZP rods. I don't feel i need them and don't figure I'll ever go over 300hp but having the head off is a big deal and is (hopefully) a one time thing so I may as well do it right. Being stuck on 91 octane makes the expense bearable, plus I'll be forged rotationally which is one less thing to worry about.

And it leaves balance shafts and ati damper as the last realistic mods for early next year. I'm not sure yet, but I'm hoping to change timing chain and cogs when the side is off without removing head again, should be possible but I'll know better when I swap heads.

Tranny is gonna be a local job next summer, I pull it out and local guru rebuilds with IPT rebuild and performance converter, possibly hardened input and output shafts, depending on what any tranny experts have to say about it.

Sold my LS4 TB, that is the end of that experiment.

 

Hey Mark finally got around to checking out your tune. Hard to say much without a log file, but...

Give this a try if you are still having low-mid kr:

revert back to your stock ve tables instead of using the ZZP numbers

trying using maf only instead of only above 3200rpms. If you encounter idle issues just use maf only over about 1000rpms, just make sure to dial your maf in well

I looked back at my old tune vs the new one with mainly those changes and I brought back up to 9 degrees of timing in areas low-mid(avg 5). I could actually feel the responsiveness of bringing that timing back. I needed to pull a **** ton of timing with the ZZP tune to get rid of kr.

I think since we don't have access to the entire pcm or are limited by hard coded limits we can't make it perfect but we can make it work really well. I say that because even though I set out to do maf only, with the zzp dynamic tables I still got kr, which makes me think the pcm still checks the ve calculations even though its set to maf only.

 

Dude, jealous your starting your build before me. I was drawn to this thread because I am doing most of your list in your initial post. I hope to start in Dec after my current suspension mods. Also...We will be over 300hp. I am going to run a 2.6" after the build though.

I am doing a ported head and keeping tabs on the ported supercharger thread to see gains there and possibly doing that as well.

I am doing:

JE 9.0 pistons
ZZP Rods
ZZP Neutral shafts
ATI Balancer

I am already running the ZZP Cams and springs so I am covered there.

The ported head will be a big adder to these builds.

I hope my Exedy Stage 2 clutch holds this otherwise I will be picking up the ZZP clutch kit. This clutch is pretty awesome so far though.

Already a lot of coin and thats not even counting gaskets, bolts, more tools, etc.

Basically I am looking at this as an overbuild for the m62, so I can drive it hard.

 

Race ya My aim is to have all those you listed by xmas, I get a paid week off between then and new years so I already know what I'll be doing No garage though and it gets chilly here so gonna fad a tarp tent and buy a propane heater and camp out with my car for the week.

Did a couple things yesterday, pulled out my old ZZP stubby MAF tube they sent with the kit and added it to my CAI about where the PCM sits. Plugged MAF opening in wheel well with my old MAF and ran my new one in what I think is a much better location. It isn't as straight a tube as I'd like before the airflow gets measured but I've always hated where the CAI manufacturers weld the bung on down by the filter. I changed back to LSJ TB at the same time and I can say my idle is damn near perfect without the minor hiccups and little sputters I was getting before hand.

Also reinstalled Bosch IC pump but topside, being fed by option B tank and pumping through HE into cores and out through overflow into surge tank.IT flows! ZZP location sucked.

Got a log and config for ya, still KR...always down low but it was pretty fun and didn't seem to hold me back much. Just a quick 5 minute log where I tried to giver.

Honestly, I don't have the stock tune. Would you mind sending me yours and I'll revert back to stock VE tables and I'll also try MAF only, but VE tables first.

 

Oh yeah, decided against the Patriot stuff, buying a brand new complete LNF head and gonna pilfer it for valves and the rest. May as well have all new head components, and I believe the valves are upgraded with the exhausts being sodium filled.

 

Just an overlay of your HO vs mine. Positives are where you have more timing, negatives are where I have more. So it actually looks pretty close, especially in the mid. Hopefully you can get the kr under control.

 

And here is my previous tune/current tune before reverting back to stock speed density tables and going to maf. As you can see I had a nightmare and eliminated tons of timing to battle the persistent kr with the old set up. Made the changes I mentioned and now I have tons of response with no kr. Gl with this man. Tuning can be a headache sometimes

 

Back on stock VE tables, IC pump working, new MAF location seems like a win, ZZP order shipped today, and Wiesco Canada can custom make pistons with any CR I desire for $575, $200 less than JE! Plus they have k1 rods on sale for $444.

Car is running sweet, haven't been able to say that in way too long.

 

Ahh...May be doing Wiesco after reading this...I would prefer 9.5 CR anyway vs the 9.0 JE.

Good to hear the car is running well

 

I've been thinking of ATIs under driven crank damper, it weighs less and while it spins the blower slower than stock I don't care. My 2.9 would be like one size larger, which I can live with. I think the 69 inch gates Micro-VŽ ATŽ Belt would be the one to use, after that it does drop to 66.5 which is quite the gap.

Agreed with the 9.5 pistons, was even considering 10:1 as I am not going as hardcore on the boost as yourself.

How did you do the cams? Did you go full retard and pull the side cover to ensure the timing chain didn't skip? I've thought of many ways to keep that chain tight while swapping the head but as I'm doing the neutrals as well there is no good excuse not to be extra **** about the job. I'm going to be nervous regardless, this is going to be a huge project and I can't even get the balance shafts out without a subframe drop. That should be lots of fun.

 

I ordered a cam gear holding tool for ecotecs, but it does not work on VVT(only L61). So I had to improvise. I cut about an 1" off the end of a 2x4 and slid it in between the cam gears. If you cut it perfectly, it will wedge between the top of the head and bottom of the gears. Then I did one camshaft at a time to ensure that the timing would not be changed. This worked well. If it didn't I would have had to remove the timing cover and that would have added more than an hour to the job.

I was sitting in my drivers seat, key in hand with adrenaline when I fired it up for the first time. I was nervous as hell.

If you are doing neutral shafts and pulling the head, you have to remove both chains. There are timing marks on the chains to match them back up though. I am pulling the motor for my rebuild.

 

Bump. Love reading you Guys.

 

Yeah, been sweet having hhr to bounce ideas off of.

A pic:

LNF head, ZZP cams, Ingalls Stiffy Mount, 78# ZZP springs, OEM head gasket, ARP head studs, and a cold beer. Exhaust gasket on its way to Euthenasia to be port matched on the LE5 head he is working on for me.

On order: Weisco 10:1 forged pistons with K1 rods, ZZP neutrals and ATI balancer.

XMAS install date.

 

Sweet!

I may do 10:1 as well. I will be running e85 so I am sticking with high compression I may even just stick with 10.4. Are you going to do your install? Did Wiseco mention anything about their tools? Like their tapered ring compressor and their hone brushes? What is the lead time on the pistons? I am waiting till Jan to start. Also you may want to consider sending the SC to Euthenasia as well. I did mine myself and recorded a .9 psi gain with my 3.1 pulley. Tons of porting can be done with the m62. It took me about 6 hours for the whole job.

 

I'm doing all my own work, can't do any worse than I've seen so many 'mechanics' do. I'm gonna hand hone, cross hatch pattern back to a satin finish using emery cloth. Longer to accomplish but i want my hands intimately involved in the process. As for the bore sleeve, I have a set of oil filter wrenches that have steel bands which I'm going to lube with grease and compress the rings into the piston befor I try and tap them into the block. If it looks sketchy I'll just go buy a proper sleeve. Weisco needs 3-4 weeks, so I've got time to refine the plan. Euthenasia just might get my spare M-62, but I want my LE5 head back first