Making a list...
02-05-2012, 10:38 AM
#202
Well that wasn't it. LOL 3 belts are toast. It only happens when I put that damn idler I made on too. I don't get it. It looks like it lines up perfectly. Oh well not buying another one gonna wait and do it right...just putting on the 3.4 or 3.1 with the stage one belt. Just have to wait to get all the 6 rib parts I guess.
I was able to hit 12psi on the 2.7 before it started to slip...and that feels awesome. I can't wait to get it set up properly.
Got a date planned to for your build yet? Have you figured out how you're getting the engine out?
I was able to hit 12psi on the 2.7 before it started to slip...and that feels awesome. I can't wait to get it set up properly.
Got a date planned to for your build yet? Have you figured out how you're getting the engine out?
02-06-2012, 06:10 AM
#203
That is strange, the belts do more extreme bends than that elsewhere, ah well. 12psi, getting close to the pcm limit there, planning on sending more $$$ to ZZP? 
Jeff at EP has some $$$ of mine, building the diff. ZZP gets my next big donation end of this month, exchange rate is good and I'd like to get everything paid so i can stop dreaming and start some serious planning.
Guess I'll lift the front end up and pull out the subframe, engine and all. I was rooting around today, the front bumper, the steel support part is bolted on and will come right off. That means I only have to jack up enough to clear the frame portion where the hood release mechanism sits. So, looks doable.
I will need to find a means of supporting the block at its main support, as it is the only one that is directly attached to the unibody and needs to come off. Struts probably need to get detached, might leave them attached to strut mounts and take them off at the knuckles. Plan on using a couple 2x6s across the control arms as a cradle to keep the wheels...whoops, not gonna work, see still thinking this through, was planning on keeping wheels attached to make pulling the whole lot out after the car was raised, but no way the wheels will clear unless I jack it up higher than I'd like. Looks like the wheels come off too. so some kind of subframe beneath the subframe to support the block and maybe with some small wooden wheels to roll it out with the help of a come along.
Once clear of the car I can start removing tranny, head and all the extras and then build a wooden version of the main block support so I can jack the steel subframe up to get underneath to change the rods. I was hoping for an engine stand, but then I need a gantry or picker. I liked the idea of using the triple stone hone with the block nearly upside down to keep the crud off the crank and journals put if I have to I'll figure something out to keep everything protected.
That is the current plan, I'm sure it will evolve.
Jeff at EP has some $$$ of mine, building the diff. ZZP gets my next big donation end of this month, exchange rate is good and I'd like to get everything paid so i can stop dreaming and start some serious planning.
Guess I'll lift the front end up and pull out the subframe, engine and all. I was rooting around today, the front bumper, the steel support part is bolted on and will come right off. That means I only have to jack up enough to clear the frame portion where the hood release mechanism sits. So, looks doable.
I will need to find a means of supporting the block at its main support, as it is the only one that is directly attached to the unibody and needs to come off. Struts probably need to get detached, might leave them attached to strut mounts and take them off at the knuckles. Plan on using a couple 2x6s across the control arms as a cradle to keep the wheels...whoops, not gonna work, see still thinking this through, was planning on keeping wheels attached to make pulling the whole lot out after the car was raised, but no way the wheels will clear unless I jack it up higher than I'd like. Looks like the wheels come off too. so some kind of subframe beneath the subframe to support the block and maybe with some small wooden wheels to roll it out with the help of a come along.
Once clear of the car I can start removing tranny, head and all the extras and then build a wooden version of the main block support so I can jack the steel subframe up to get underneath to change the rods. I was hoping for an engine stand, but then I need a gantry or picker. I liked the idea of using the triple stone hone with the block nearly upside down to keep the crud off the crank and journals put if I have to I'll figure something out to keep everything protected.
That is the current plan, I'm sure it will evolve.
02-06-2012, 09:29 AM
#204
Senior Member
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: 09-03-10
Location: motor city
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's actually easier to leave the struts on the subframe and just take of the three nuts on the top side of the strut tower. The knuckles will have no problem keeping them in place and its less work
02-06-2012, 09:59 AM
#205
LOL yes more money to ZZP.
I asked them if they have any 6rib parts laying around they could sell. Tim also said to just consider the ATI balancer and a bigger pulley.
For now I just want to convert over to a 6 rib system though. Plans are to do the ATI damper and neutral shafts when I have two cars...I am planning on getting a G5/Cobalt later this summer to swap all my parts into...then do some crazy **** to the HHR.
I asked them if they have any 6rib parts laying around they could sell. Tim also said to just consider the ATI balancer and a bigger pulley.
For now I just want to convert over to a 6 rib system though. Plans are to do the ATI damper and neutral shafts when I have two cars...I am planning on getting a G5/Cobalt later this summer to swap all my parts into...then do some crazy **** to the HHR.
02-16-2012, 08:38 AM
#207
OMG! I just want to drive my car! Got all the parts to convert only to realize I need to order longer bolts for the LSJ alt bracket M8x1.25x126. Ordered them from the dealer yesterday. Hopefully have them tomorrow. Also looks like the pulley swap on the alt is good.
The A/C clutch swap does work. So if you ever convert you can pull off the clutch/pulley from the LSJ and use your stock A/C. But don't do what I did. I have no A/C right now. I snapped off half the bolt that holds the clutch plate on while trying to remove it. Broke off flush and its loctited so its not coming out. So I just put on the 6 rib pulley and said **** the A/C for now. I have only used it 5 times in the 3 years I have had it anyway. There is no room to work on it in the car so if I need to I will just put the other A/C in sometime...So much for saving time.
The A/C clutch swap does work. So if you ever convert you can pull off the clutch/pulley from the LSJ and use your stock A/C. But don't do what I did. I have no A/C right now. I snapped off half the bolt that holds the clutch plate on while trying to remove it. Broke off flush and its loctited so its not coming out. So I just put on the 6 rib pulley and said **** the A/C for now. I have only used it 5 times in the 3 years I have had it anyway. There is no room to work on it in the car so if I need to I will just put the other A/C in sometime...So much for saving time.
02-16-2012, 03:27 PM
#209
I don't have AC either, just the compressor pump left. First thing I noticed is my ECTs were 4-5*C cooler as a result of the condenser not obstructing the rad.
Been thinking lots, trying to get Euth to fab me up a TwinScrew but no dice he is not making a 4th. So, my choice now is Tranny/ATI/SwayBar or...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
ZZP Stage 3 Turbo with LK9 intake and air to air IC. Sell the M62 ****, use proceeds to do tranny and the rest. For all the work I've done, all the extra 'things' the SC seems to need to run properly I hate to throw it all away and start over but, butI have a feeling the first WOT run Turbo'd will change my feelings pretty quickly.
Anyways, I'm thinking.
Been thinking lots, trying to get Euth to fab me up a TwinScrew but no dice he is not making a 4th. So, my choice now is Tranny/ATI/SwayBar or...
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
ZZP Stage 3 Turbo with LK9 intake and air to air IC. Sell the M62 ****, use proceeds to do tranny and the rest. For all the work I've done, all the extra 'things' the SC seems to need to run properly I hate to throw it all away and start over but, butI have a feeling the first WOT run Turbo'd will change my feelings pretty quickly.
Anyways, I'm thinking.
02-17-2012, 07:47 AM
#211
Yeah I don't blame ya. Turbo would be nice for power. The low end torque from a turbo will shame our m62 setups, though the flat torque from the SC is nice. And our extra displacement warrants a better pump so turbo or bigger SC. I am not switching to turbo on this car. I would like to get my hands on a TVS a year from now and port it and pulley down. I think I would really like that. I ended up taking the whole A/C system out too and gutted the extra A/C unit I had cause I didn't feel like putting it in and purging the system.
@mmcgee123
Not sure I would call it lope, but idle is different. Sounds more aggressive. That is the first thing you will notice when you fire up the car.
@mmcgee123
Not sure I would call it lope, but idle is different. Sounds more aggressive. That is the first thing you will notice when you fire up the car.
02-17-2012, 06:19 PM
#213
LSJ setup is holding no problem. That sucker has a very firm tension. Stage 2 belt. Got the oversized tensioner pulley on there too. Picked it up from Advance Auto. Dayco pulley part number 89009. Brings the diameter from 2.5 to 3".
181kpa
36.4lb/min
@7k
The 2.7 makes very good power. That is still with the LSJ tb. I am going to try the LS4 one more time this weekend and if its good I am dynoing next week on gas.
181kpa
36.4lb/min
@7k
The 2.7 makes very good power. That is still with the LSJ tb. I am going to try the LS4 one more time this weekend and if its good I am dynoing next week on gas.
02-18-2012, 03:45 AM
#214
So 12 lbs off 2.7...thats some good flow, not much restriction. Bet that is 16+ without ports and exhaust.
So Are you maxed now? or one more pulley drop to 2.6 in the future?
I'm still clued out, what is this worth:
ZZP CAI,cut and modified for Auto with K&N filter
LSJ TB
(2)M-62 SC-2, one with ZZP modular pulley setup. One with GM Stage snout.
3.4 5rib ZZP
3.1 5rib ZZP
2.9 6rib GM
LSJ IM
2.5 Bar MAP and extra 3 Bar Bosch MAP w/IAT
Dual Pass and extra single pass.
Phenolic Gasket
39#Ford Injectors
60#Bosch Injectors,brand new.
Bosch IC pump
ZZP S3 Heat Exchanger
Option 'B'
ZZP Long Header w/WideBand bung and CAT, 2.5" exit bolts to stock exhaust.
Original ZZP stage 1 and 2 kit, has all parts required for 2.2/2.4 conversion except a Tune.
Long Header is for auto models, engine is tilted forward and modification would likely
be required for 5-speeds.
$1500 plus shipping? think I could get that anyone? shipping is likely to be close to $200. All parts are in decent shape,except:
1st blower has some scuffing along edge of rotors.
3.4 pulley grinded against rad frame rail after phenolic gasket install,shaving off the lip a bit but still good as I'm running it now.
H3 HE has made contact with a few steep driveways, tough sob but not a putry show piece anymore
Basically all of this was ZZP purchased and has a replacement value of over $3k.
So Are you maxed now? or one more pulley drop to 2.6 in the future?
I'm still clued out, what is this worth:
ZZP CAI,cut and modified for Auto with K&N filter
LSJ TB
(2)M-62 SC-2, one with ZZP modular pulley setup. One with GM Stage snout.
3.4 5rib ZZP
3.1 5rib ZZP
2.9 6rib GM
LSJ IM
2.5 Bar MAP and extra 3 Bar Bosch MAP w/IAT
Dual Pass and extra single pass.
Phenolic Gasket
39#Ford Injectors
60#Bosch Injectors,brand new.
Bosch IC pump
ZZP S3 Heat Exchanger
Option 'B'
ZZP Long Header w/WideBand bung and CAT, 2.5" exit bolts to stock exhaust.
Original ZZP stage 1 and 2 kit, has all parts required for 2.2/2.4 conversion except a Tune.
Long Header is for auto models, engine is tilted forward and modification would likely
be required for 5-speeds.
$1500 plus shipping? think I could get that anyone? shipping is likely to be close to $200. All parts are in decent shape,except:
1st blower has some scuffing along edge of rotors.
3.4 pulley grinded against rad frame rail after phenolic gasket install,shaving off the lip a bit but still good as I'm running it now.
H3 HE has made contact with a few steep driveways, tough sob but not a putry show piece anymore
Basically all of this was ZZP purchased and has a replacement value of over $3k.
02-19-2012, 03:22 PM
#215
That sounds like a more than fair price especially if it goes to someone auto for the header/dp.
Ok my blower is likely the culprit of the spun bearing noise I was having. Two days ago I starting hearing a scraping/grinding noise in addition to the whining from the blower at idle and this afternoon I took it off and inspected it. The edges of the rotors closest to the needle bearings/inlet was scraping off and it did not look like that when I had it apart last fall for the port. I have it apart right now and got one of the bearings out by cutting a slit in the race and pulling it out with a slide hammer. Going to order new bearings from ZZP tomorrow. It looks like the seals leaked and the bearings spun the grease out. There was black bearing grease all over the inside of the housing.
LOL maybe just maybe I will still make the dyno this week...
Ok my blower is likely the culprit of the spun bearing noise I was having. Two days ago I starting hearing a scraping/grinding noise in addition to the whining from the blower at idle and this afternoon I took it off and inspected it. The edges of the rotors closest to the needle bearings/inlet was scraping off and it did not look like that when I had it apart last fall for the port. I have it apart right now and got one of the bearings out by cutting a slit in the race and pulling it out with a slide hammer. Going to order new bearings from ZZP tomorrow. It looks like the seals leaked and the bearings spun the grease out. There was black bearing grease all over the inside of the housing.
LOL maybe just maybe I will still make the dyno this week...
02-28-2012, 08:42 AM
#218
Cool man that looks like the team green/phantom grip set up I've seen around. Interested in hearing how that works out.
As for my little issue...assuming you saw my thread...I still haven't fiddled with the car. I am going to lay under it for a bit tonight to see if there is something that could be loose externally. Also pulled some threads off a header/downpipe stud a few weeks ago so I am going to fix that...doubt that could cause vibes... Replacing the knock sensor as well. I have some false knock or some serious **** going on. Its weird kr though...it only happens in steep transitions like steady to WOT, but it is always cyl 3. While in WOT timing comes back.
As for my little issue...assuming you saw my thread...I still haven't fiddled with the car. I am going to lay under it for a bit tonight to see if there is something that could be loose externally. Also pulled some threads off a header/downpipe stud a few weeks ago so I am going to fix that...doubt that could cause vibes... Replacing the knock sensor as well. I have some false knock or some serious **** going on. Its weird kr though...it only happens in steep transitions like steady to WOT, but it is always cyl 3. While in WOT timing comes back.
Last edited by hhrfreek; 02-28-2012 at 08:50 AM.
02-28-2012, 09:15 AM
#219
Yeah I saw your thread, didn't comment because I simply don't know where to start looking. It is my own fear, getting it all back together and it not being 100%. I don't think it is your rod bearings, but next time get new ones lol. Keep us updated, hopefully something stupid and harmless.
02-28-2012, 11:14 AM
#220
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: 07-22-08
Location: troy,michigan
Posts: 1,316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As far as the knock issue goes if put some race gas in it to see if it goes away then ull know if it's false knock or not before you go replacing a bunch of stuff
02-29-2012, 05:07 PM
#222
Senior Member
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: 09-03-10
Location: motor city
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So 12 lbs off 2.7...thats some good flow, not much restriction. Bet that is 16+ without ports and exhaust.
So Are you maxed now? or one more pulley drop to 2.6 in the future?
I'm still clued out, what is this worth:
ZZP CAI,cut and modified for Auto with K&N filter
LSJ TB
(2)M-62 SC-2, one with ZZP modular pulley setup. One with GM Stage snout.
3.4 5rib ZZP
3.1 5rib ZZP
2.9 6rib GM
LSJ IM
2.5 Bar MAP and extra 3 Bar Bosch MAP w/IAT
Dual Pass and extra single pass.
Phenolic Gasket
39#Ford Injectors
60#Bosch Injectors,brand new.
Bosch IC pump
ZZP S3 Heat Exchanger
Option 'B'
ZZP Long Header w/WideBand bung and CAT, 2.5" exit bolts to stock exhaust.
Original ZZP stage 1 and 2 kit, has all parts required for 2.2/2.4 conversion except a Tune.
Long Header is for auto models, engine is tilted forward and modification would likely
be required for 5-speeds.
$1500 plus shipping? think I could get that anyone? shipping is likely to be close to $200. All parts are in decent shape,except:
1st blower has some scuffing along edge of rotors.
3.4 pulley grinded against rad frame rail after phenolic gasket install,shaving off the lip a bit but still good as I'm running it now.
H3 HE has made contact with a few steep driveways, tough sob but not a putry show piece anymore
Basically all of this was ZZP purchased and has a replacement value of over $3k.
So Are you maxed now? or one more pulley drop to 2.6 in the future?
I'm still clued out, what is this worth:
ZZP CAI,cut and modified for Auto with K&N filter
LSJ TB
(2)M-62 SC-2, one with ZZP modular pulley setup. One with GM Stage snout.
3.4 5rib ZZP
3.1 5rib ZZP
2.9 6rib GM
LSJ IM
2.5 Bar MAP and extra 3 Bar Bosch MAP w/IAT
Dual Pass and extra single pass.
Phenolic Gasket
39#Ford Injectors
60#Bosch Injectors,brand new.
Bosch IC pump
ZZP S3 Heat Exchanger
Option 'B'
ZZP Long Header w/WideBand bung and CAT, 2.5" exit bolts to stock exhaust.
Original ZZP stage 1 and 2 kit, has all parts required for 2.2/2.4 conversion except a Tune.
Long Header is for auto models, engine is tilted forward and modification would likely
be required for 5-speeds.
$1500 plus shipping? think I could get that anyone? shipping is likely to be close to $200. All parts are in decent shape,except:
1st blower has some scuffing along edge of rotors.
3.4 pulley grinded against rad frame rail after phenolic gasket install,shaving off the lip a bit but still good as I'm running it now.
H3 HE has made contact with a few steep driveways, tough sob but not a putry show piece anymore
Basically all of this was ZZP purchased and has a replacement value of over $3k.
03-01-2012, 10:29 AM
#224
New Member
Join Date: 05-27-11
Location: Québec
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll check I could find you a Buyer Mark.
The single pass you mentionned is a complete Intake Manifold? ZZP? If so I'm interested.
Do you guys happen to have a part number for some one step colder NGK irridiums?
The single pass you mentionned is a complete Intake Manifold? ZZP? If so I'm interested.
Do you guys happen to have a part number for some one step colder NGK irridiums?
03-07-2012, 08:32 PM
#225
Pulled the pan off today and just had time to pull off the 3rd cylinder rod cap. Bearing still looks ******* perfect. Going to check the clearance again then check the others. Something is definitely rubbing though. I have super fine glitter in the oil. With the whine noise, fine particles in the oil and KR in cyl 3 I was expecting to see a messed up bearing. I will hopefully have it figured out this weekend. I have just been super busy.