oh their tight now. LOL after i scared the **** out myself when it popped off, it won't happen to me again.

 

so the pipes dont need to be flared? mine arent flared either. lol. just smooth pipe. hope it doesnt leak.

 

All I'm saying is I flared mine slightly just like in the pic. It's a very tight fit with the stock Couplers sliding over the flares lol.I didn't use anything to slide them on with either just my man hands. Also you will have to forgive me all my photos are horrible and blurry... had the camera on the wrong setting I didn't figure that out till i got the car all put back together.

 

question so i have aftermarket lower and upper piping lmao

 

whats your question?

 

lmao i have aftermarket upper and lower... dont think ill have issues? lol

 

why are you laughing so much?

yes.

 

why you mad tho? what's wrong with laughing your a negative person.

 

hahah no man, just f'ing with you. Nothing is wrong with laughing, if you knew me you'd know I laugh too much :-p you had lmao in the beginning and lol at the end so I figured you were laughing too much for 1 sentence I use as sarcasm

 

Must be cause of the northern coldness. But foreal... I'm installing this tomorrow, should i flare them?

 

no need to flare them just tighten the hell out of the t-bolts. i would have been OK if it weren't for those damn stock charge pipes. they made my install hell.

 

My charge pipes are stock lower and zzp upper with stock couplers. Look at it this way, if its a bitch to get on then its gonna be a bitch for the car to blow em off

 

Really I didn't have that problem. My brackets had an elongated hole that I slid into a comfortable spot. Did you not get those brackets?

 

no I got the same brackets, But my crashbar was pressed right up against the IC no matter how I played with it. I bent the brackets in just enough to get the crash bar to fit very very snug against the IC.

Also, my review will hopefully get done tomorrow... I had some serious issues at the BYT meet yesterday. Cars tuned now though but i dont have vinces overlay... It failed and almost wrecked my turbo... Very strange stuff, will post videos.

 

so when is it being completed?

 

Well I dont have the stock tune anymore so I dont know how that will effect My IAT data since I will be boosting to 20psi instead of 15....not Ideal for WOT comparison to stock, I was hoping to have a switchable tune today... I can do the How to- part. as soon as my photos are done uploading to Facebook

 

First please dont be mad about that blurry photos They still show what you need to do. lol.

Tools required:

-ratchet set with 7mm, 10mm, 13mm, and 6in extention. Most complete rachet sets will have these.

-Phillips head screw driver

-Flat Head screw driver (2 would be very useful for those clips)

-10mm cresent wrench, small adjustable cresent wrench (helps to get those tough to reach 7mm bolt undernieth)

-automotive work gloves with grips(very important for getting good grip on those charge pipe couplers)

-a Jack and two jack stands (not sure if its necessary but certainly makes things easy)

-some plastic ziplock bags (for organization)

-A helping hand (very important)

-Time (A full free day is best, that way you have no pressure)

INSTALL with bad PICs



1. PLASTIC CLIPS - Open the hood and start undoing the plastic clips on the top of the bumper, under the hood. Two flat head screw drivers to pry the black clips up works pretty well. place all the clips in a labeled ziplock bag, write bumper on bag.



2. HEADLIGHT - Start unbolting the headlights (edit: grey bolts that connect the headlight to the bracket). The head lights are held in with two 10mm bolts to a black headlight bracket. take those bolts and place them in a labeled bag.

Popping the head light out is alittle tricky if you hadnt done it before. I find the best way is to wiggle it and try popping out the headlight from the corner part. This can be done by kind making an motion similar to opening a door (pivoting motion). once you have it Free disconnect all the connections to the headlight, I have HIDs now but if I recall, there are three connections on the passenger headlight and four on the driver side (one is for the Ambient Temp Sensor under the headlight. becareful with that.


3. HEADLIGHT BRACKET - Time to remove the headlight brackets. They are held in by four 10mm bolts. Two on top and two near the bottom. The headlight bracket is the black plastic scaffolding that holds the headlight in place. You might have accidentally unbolted the backet in step two since I didnt specify which bolts you need to unbolt for the headlight. These bolts are black and should be plainly visible. Now remove the black headlight bracket.


If you dont take out the bracket before going to step 5., It is very difficult. see image below. Very tight fit to get a rachet in there.


4. BUMPER SCREWS - For this step I lifted the car and put it on jack stands for ease of working. There are a series of 7mm screws, and plastic clips similar to the ones on top of the bumper, under your car that you must unscrew.

Most of the screws can be unbolted using the ratchet with extension but there are two 7mm bolts on either side near where the tires are that dont have a space to squeeze the extension by so the small adjustable cresent wrench comes in handy here.
There should be a total of six 7mm bolts to unbolt under the bumper (unless your car has many dealer visits then you might only have 4 or 5 screws... possibly not even 7mm hex, could be phillips or flat head ). Three bolts on either side. See picture below about what I mean by a gap available to get the extension by and how the one closest to the tire does not have the gap.

NOW, there are six more 7mm, again if you had many dealer visits some of these screws might be missing You need to unbolt the three in the tire wells on either side. To make this easy, can turn the steering wheel to get to them easier which is what I did ontop of lifting the car.

WARNING: DO NOT TRY TURNING THE WHEEL WITHOUT THE KEY IN THE INGNITION AND IN THE "ON" POSITION WHILE CAR IS LIFTED. You can lock the steering wheel in place which makes it very difficult, you will also not be able to turn the key. With the key in the ingnition and in the "on" position, the power steering kicks in. if you didnt lift the car START THE CAR and turn the steering wheel. Again you do not want this pain that I went through .
Should you have locked the steering wheel just turn it as hard as possible in the direction you were turning it and you will feel the steering wheel give alittle and the key can be turned.


There are actually four 7mm bolts in the tire wells, I believe the second ones from the bottom does not need to be unbolted. They are only hold the front lip to the car.

 

5. BUMPER BRACKETS - This is alittle tricky. There are 3 10mm bolts on either side of the bumper but you only need to unbolt one of them completely on either side. The other two bolts just need to be loosened. See pic below of me loosening the bracket bolts.

See pic below of a close up of how the bumpers is mounted You can see the the back bolt actually hold the bumper in place while the other two hold the bracket against the bumper clips. I removed one bracket instead of loosening it.


Here is a pic with the bracket in place and just loosened to remove bumper.
[img]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/188741_1596523709291_1121921202_31200507_5567523_n .jpg[img]

THere are two more clips to remove. They are kinda difficult to get to and I didnt take any pics . They connect the bumper to the crash bar.
They can be seen by looking through the grill where the IC is and looking at the top just behind the grill. You can slide a flat head screw driver through the grill and try and pop them off. a second person helps here... They can reach through the opening where the headlight use to be and rotate the clips so the flat part is available for the screw driver to work the clip.

6. TAKE IT OFF! - Have your friend carefully hold one side of the bumper while you hold the other. Wiggle the bumper off. If its not coming off check to make sure the Hood latch and rubber hood bump stops arent in the way . If it still feels bolted some where, give a quick check around to make sure you didnt miss anything.


7. REMOVE THE STOCK INTERCOOLER - First thing to do, and having the car lifted really will make this easy, is LOOSEN the stock couplers.

You will see them under the car and there should be space for you to use a cresent wrench to loosen the T-bolt clamp.

Pry a flat head screw driver between the plastic endtank inlet/outlet and the rubber coupler. Wiggle the screw driver around to "break the seal" between the coupler and endtank.

Yank away to get it off. It will come off. If you are having issues, loosen it more and use the flat screw screwdriver to try seperating the coupler as you pry it off.
Once you get the couplers off on both the inlet and out let.
loosen the two bolts that hold the Intercooler to the Intercooler mounts. Then unbolt the intercooler bracket from the crashbar.
Take the stock intercooler off.

AND NOW FOR A BREAK.
Go grab a beer. and check out these photos of the stock IC vs the TR8 IC.







BACK TO THE DIY INSTALL.

8. MOUNT TRE BRACKETS AND ELBOWS - Simple step No need to explain this.




9. REMOVE CRASHBAR - Move the IC bracket clip that looks like this, see pic below.

slides out like this

Use the Ratchet with the 13mm and an extension if you want. unbolt all six 13mm bolts holding the crashbar. Have the friend help.

Remove crashbar.

 

10. INSTALL TR8 - First line up the IC with the "inside" crashbar mount points to make sure it lines up ok. Next, with the help of a friend, hold the crashbar and IC up and sandwich the IC between the crash bar and crash bar mounting points. Make sure the bolt openings line up and start threading the 13mm bolt through. tighten down the bolts while checking to see if the crashbar collides with the IC. If it does, see pic below




^I couldnt bolt the crashbar down all the way SO, SOLULTION
Take IC off. BEND the Aluminum IC brackets so that the IC sits further back.

WAH-LAH! It fits.


Re-install everything back the way you took it off and your done. Make sure the couplers are tight like a tiger!
Also figured out my camera setting were wrong, lol



DONE

Enjoy your new IC.

 

Nice!

 

Working on the second iat table now

 

front page updated. Looks like the all metal Intercooler heats up quicker but does its job effectively. It also seems to cool quicker.

My evidence for that is seeing how quickly and sharp the temp slopes rise when the car sits still. Then watch how it just suddenly stops climbing and flatlines. Does the same thing when the car is off, before I even hit 8 minutes the IC temp dropped quickly compared to last time. Notice the downward slope how quick it changed directions. I think this could be considered evidence that the IC has efficient cooling properties over factory.

I can also say that because this IC is made of more metal than the factory one, it must also heat up retain heat alittle easier as shows the graph where the slope is slightly bigger than the stock IC slope for the idling, but again it quickly flatlines so the IC is counterbalanced here.

 

The red and pink lines are my Intake temps from today and last time. The car was definately running hotter this time around. I think that might also have something to do with the increasing slopes. I think it was warmer than 55 *F. (With that being said than my TR8 minus the ambient temps would be lower )

 

So simply its more effective than the stock. Power increase is minimal but reliability increase is high

 

exactly. Its not going to cool air lower than ambient but it will get it within 2-3 degrees under boost. Thats what its suppose to do. The stocker does this as well but blows up, lol.
I think the difference between the two overlapping graphs of about 2 degrees might be because it was actually warmer than the sensor was sensing. It definately felt warmer than last time I did this and the Intake temps are definately slightly elevated as well.