2.2 All motor build
#1
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2.2 All motor build
Im going to be building an all motor 2.2 in the near future. It will also be a daily driver so nothing too crazy
Plans: (on my 2nd motor)
Wiseco or CP pistons 10.5:1 or 11.0:1 and 20 bore
Eagle connecting rods And crank
Supertech or Ferrea valve kit
Comp stage 2 or 3 cams
GM adjustable cam gears
Port and Polish head (port match intake and exhaust)
3 (maybe 4 or 5) angle valve job
ceramic coating
all arp studs
cometic head gasket
2.4L intake manifold
Bigger throttle body
Injen CAI (maybe custom)
3" catless dp and cat-back (custom)
(undecided on header)
N2O for at track (125??? wet shot)
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Spec stage 3 clutch
DSS level 2 axles
Slicks
MSD ignition (need something, unsure what to get)
Smt-6 or
AEM FIC or
2.2 beta tune (clear image auto, trifecta)
Maybe all 3! lol jk
Thats all i can think of now cuz im really tired. Most of the stuff in my car now is going to be installed with this build also. If anyone can think of things or suggestions for some of the parts i have listed (as to change or which to go with) go ahead and post them up!
ill update after the weekend (not on much on weekends)
and im going with all motor cuz i have yet to see anyone do it (and i searched a lot) t/c or s/c is what most do so im going n/a lets hope it works out for the best. im just aiming for a 13sec car maybe even low 14s ill be happy
Plans: (on my 2nd motor)
Wiseco or CP pistons 10.5:1 or 11.0:1 and 20 bore
Eagle connecting rods And crank
Supertech or Ferrea valve kit
Comp stage 2 or 3 cams
GM adjustable cam gears
Port and Polish head (port match intake and exhaust)
3 (maybe 4 or 5) angle valve job
ceramic coating
all arp studs
cometic head gasket
2.4L intake manifold
Bigger throttle body
Injen CAI (maybe custom)
3" catless dp and cat-back (custom)
(undecided on header)
N2O for at track (125??? wet shot)
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Spec stage 3 clutch
DSS level 2 axles
Slicks
MSD ignition (need something, unsure what to get)
Smt-6 or
AEM FIC or
2.2 beta tune (clear image auto, trifecta)
Maybe all 3! lol jk
Thats all i can think of now cuz im really tired. Most of the stuff in my car now is going to be installed with this build also. If anyone can think of things or suggestions for some of the parts i have listed (as to change or which to go with) go ahead and post them up!
ill update after the weekend (not on much on weekends)
and im going with all motor cuz i have yet to see anyone do it (and i searched a lot) t/c or s/c is what most do so im going n/a lets hope it works out for the best. im just aiming for a 13sec car maybe even low 14s ill be happy
Last edited by o3nisoaso3; 05-06-2008 at 05:54 PM.
#3
Sounds like what i am preparing to do... sounds like youve got a good start, thair is however one thing that worries me... will the block be able to handle it, everything that i have read so far is saying that it is only rated to around 400hp. what are your concerns, if you have any and if so what do you plan on doing about them?
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Sounds like what i am preparing to do... sounds like youve got a good start, thair is however one thing that worries me... will the block be able to handle it, everything that i have read so far is saying that it is only rated to around 400hp. what are your concerns, if you have any and if so what do you plan on doing about them?
yea i talked to one guy who had one about a year ago on ecotecpower and jbody forum, im not really wanting all that. i just want like 250-300whp. well see how it does whem im done, if it does 12s then great but im only settin my hopes for high 13s lol so i guess i wont be let down or somethin like that
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The block is good for 1000hp. The sleeves and crank need to be replaced at 600hp. You shouldnt have a problem. Also your max RPM without going with a standalone is 8100rpms. You can get that tuned easily by vince.
Also, for pistons you might wanna go with 11:1 or higher. Run to 8100rpms and you should pull some decent power out of the car. you will most likely will only need 32lb injectors to do it.
Also, for pistons you might wanna go with 11:1 or higher. Run to 8100rpms and you should pull some decent power out of the car. you will most likely will only need 32lb injectors to do it.
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The block is good for 1000hp. The sleeves and crank need to be replaced at 600hp. You shouldnt have a problem. Also your max RPM without going with a standalone is 8100rpms. You can get that tuned easily by vince.
Also, for pistons you might wanna go with 11:1 or higher. Run to 8100rpms and you should pull some decent power out of the car. you will most likely will only need 32lb injectors to do it.
Also, for pistons you might wanna go with 11:1 or higher. Run to 8100rpms and you should pull some decent power out of the car. you will most likely will only need 32lb injectors to do it.
what is the stock 2.2 and 2.4 intake manifolds capable of of handling hp/tq wise? (roughly)
what parts do u recommend?
how much u lookin for it? it may take a lil while cuz i am gettin ready to get pistons and valve kit
Last edited by o3nisoaso3; 04-18-2008 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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thanks man. i got the ss/sc injectors and talked to vince about if hed be able to tune. i got the 2nd motor bored, just waiting to hone once i buy the pistons (make up my mind). im gonna run the car to where ever the cams and that makes top power (figured around 7750ish). im not really all that concerned about pulling crazy power but a decent amount of it and just the maybe extra power from a 75-100 wet shot just to get me around 300whp. its just that if im sprayin im makin the motor capable of it...
what is the stock 2.2 and 2.4 intake manifolds capable of of handling hp/tq wise? (roughly)
what parts do u recommend?
how much u lookin for it? it may take a lil while cuz i am gettin ready to get pistons and valve kit
what is the stock 2.2 and 2.4 intake manifolds capable of of handling hp/tq wise? (roughly)
what parts do u recommend?
how much u lookin for it? it may take a lil while cuz i am gettin ready to get pistons and valve kit
Running a standalone for this type of build would be recommended. The issue with Trifecta is the lack of ability to change your tune at will. Each time you need to change something, I have to wait for them to ship you the tuner, rely on a tune made from someone who's hundreds of miles away and has never seen your car.
With an N/A setup of this nature, flexibility of the tune is key... and with Trifecta, you're not even coming close to getting that.
#11
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Sorry to rain on the Trifecta tuning parade, again, but you need to rethink your tuning solution.
Running a standalone for this type of build would be recommended. The issue with Trifecta is the lack of ability to change your tune at will. Each time you need to change something, I have to wait for them to ship you the tuner, rely on a tune made from someone who's hundreds of miles away and has never seen your car.
With an N/A setup of this nature, flexibility of the tune is key... and with Trifecta, you're not even coming close to getting that.
Running a standalone for this type of build would be recommended. The issue with Trifecta is the lack of ability to change your tune at will. Each time you need to change something, I have to wait for them to ship you the tuner, rely on a tune made from someone who's hundreds of miles away and has never seen your car.
With an N/A setup of this nature, flexibility of the tune is key... and with Trifecta, you're not even coming close to getting that.
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Go full standalone...look into MSD for that (I'm using MSD Digital Programmable 7). You're going to need the ability to tune as stated by others for any and all occasions, not just your drive down Main street.
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i got a good bit of the parts in. cams, rods, studs, head gasket, n2o, aem stuff and ss/sc injectors
exhaust, intake, fly and clutch installed already
the second motor's block is still at the shop, head in the garage getting ready to get the valves, springs reatainers and cams (been worked already)
ill get some pics up soon
exhaust, intake, fly and clutch installed already
the second motor's block is still at the shop, head in the garage getting ready to get the valves, springs reatainers and cams (been worked already)
ill get some pics up soon
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go 30 over cause if somthing happenes to the motor you wanna still beable to clean up the cylinder walls w/ boring it a lil more. besides you wont notice nore see a difference in power from 30 over to 40 over... but hey thats just what i know an iam sure some one thinks they know better lol but gl with your build man its good to see some one trying somthing new
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go 30 over cause if somthing happenes to the motor you wanna still beable to clean up the cylinder walls w/ boring it a lil more. besides you wont notice nore see a difference in power from 30 over to 40 over... but hey thats just what i know an iam sure some one thinks they know better lol but gl with your build man its good to see some one trying somthing new
whats the max bore of the motor? i heard after 50 or 60 you need new sleeves. i want 30 but figured 40 would still be safe. ill probably go with 30. where could i get them? custom piston form from wiseco?
#19
I don't think GM recommends even a 30 over on most of their aluminum block, iron liner engines. The original LS1's and Northstars were stated to be 10 over max and then as new revisions came along things got better. Regardless, 86mm (L61/LSJ) is 3.3858 inches, and 88mm (LE5/LE8/LE9) is 3.4646 inches, that seems like a lot of room.
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I don't think GM recommends even a 30 over on most of their aluminum block, iron liner engines. The original LS1's and Northstars were stated to be 10 over max and then as new revisions came along things got better. Regardless, 86mm (L61/LSJ) is 3.3858 inches, and 88mm (LE5/LE8/LE9) is 3.4646 inches, that seems like a lot of room.
wow. well i know they sell .20 over like everywhere and i want to get .30 over
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ok, so i talked to some different people and asked jbp and all i heard was not going over .20
so now it looks like i will probably just run a 10.0:1 and maybe later down the road turbo or run a 11-12.0:1 (unsure what i want lol)
so now it looks like i will probably just run a 10.0:1 and maybe later down the road turbo or run a 11-12.0:1 (unsure what i want lol)
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would i be able to run premium (94 is most at pump) on a 12.0:1 with .20 over bore or would i have to run a race gas or higher octane???