For those of you wanting to utilize both your heat exchangers

 

Yeah, but how long will the pump last with all the extra strain of flowing that much more fluid. That would be my only concern. Those pumps aren't exactly known for long lifespans, as it is.

 

just out of curiosity, did you guys make sure this tank was gravity feeding at the pump?

just a little tid bit too. to the people looking for the under hood tank option, the tank should be plastic, not metal.

 

Your IC pump hates you. lol

 

That's exactly what I was thinking. It'd probably be a good idea to add another pump in there somewhere.

 

383 you are on to something here

 

yea id be more concerned with the pump lasting with all that hose, how many people have had their pump take a **** or had to use a hammer to get it working.

 

I got a Roto-Molded plastic tank in works

 

and the other question?

 

Yes, When u disconnect the hose to the pump from the tank it will drain the tank.

 

ya i was wondering the same thing.... my setup over many back to back pulls only went 10 degrees over ambient...and nothing can go wrong.

i do like the initiative, and the ingenuity, i hope it gets better over time, it just means another new product to help out the community.

also why not just take out your intercooler pump and get an aftermarket one from jegs or summit and run your own switch to cool things down when you need them cooled down
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...ine+water+pump

 

No, the pump pulls water from the tank. The method you mentioned does not work well, since the tank doesnt act like a high velocity channel for the water to continue moving thru. Here's how it would be plumbed for the best water efficiency with two heat exchangers.





my pump has been working just fine; along w/ Euthanasia's... I replaced it once @ 40000 miles, and my new one has been great ever since. I'm at 67000 now.

What kills these pumps are kinks and running them dry

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I promised a log... better yet heres a comparisson of my 2.7 pulley'd car w/ this tank vs a 2.8 pulley'd car on meth that I tuned. Notice the 2.8 pullied car has a lower iat1

Excuse my afr goin into the 10s midway thru my pull. I have my wideband's power rigged up so that i can unplug it or plug it in conveniently via the 12v cig plugs. I accidently unplugged it midway thru pulley.

 

If you have ever seen anyone with a clear plastic lid on there reservoir tank with the bosh pump.. That much hose / distance is the least of your worries. That pump flows like a m** f**er.

 

exactly....

and the my results are up above this post and on the front page.

 

Yes, I know how well it flows. I used to have the Stu Mod myself. My point is that you just added a hell of a lot more hose and fluid to the system. Yes, the pump will move it, but you are putting A LOT more stress on the pump motor (is that really that hard to understand)... and you are potentially shortening the life of the pump by a great deal.

Sure, its working fine now (we get that - you can stop saying it)... but that's the same thing that people say when bolt a 2.5" pulley and 60# Injectors onto their car. Everyone tells them that they are dumb and they're going to blow their engine... and all they say is, "Well its working fine now."

I'm not saying it WILL happen, or that you are dumb for doing this... I'm just saying that you should be at least SLIGHTLY concerned with how much strain it is putting on the pump.

 

My pump died at 40k anyway with no mods? What life is there to shorten?
You ever race your car? That shortens the life of your clutch and a lot of more expensive parts other than a 80$ bosh pump.
If the pump is the only thing you have to change on your car.... You are doing just fine. Its easy as hell to change anyway. I changed mine with out even draining the coolant.
Its the price you pay to have a high performance vehicle.
If you want a car that you will never have to work on go buy a prius with a 200k extended warranty.

 

I don't see it that way.

No matter how much water you have in ANY given tank, the pump will still only move the same X amount of water. With most tanks designed being at a higher elevation on the car than the pump itself, it isn't "pulling" the weight of the water.

I understand what you're saying, and it almost makes sense. However, In order to put more harmful strain on the stock pump, you will have to do more than add more water to the system. Running BIGGER than 3/4 inch lines would be a good way to put a strain on the pump because you are stressing it to move more water than it is able to. Putting SMALLER than 3/4 inch lines would also put a lot of stress on the pump by trying to move the amount of water that is not there to move. This way would actually lead the pump to burn up pretty quickly.

Of course we all aren't going to be doing either, those are just examples. The important thing was said previously in this thread. The death of these pumps is mostly caused by poorly ran lines that are compressed in areas and running them dry. I would like to add that air in the system will also do some damage to them.

Over time these ARE going to fail and will need replacing. That WILL happen with every single pump you ever buy. I see enough pumps far bigger and tougher than these every day that need replacing after only a few years of service when there life expectancy is at least a decade.

 

steven, it does need to be gravity fed. sinc euthanasia says it does cool, but trust me, it does need to be gravity fed.

 

Maybe I misunderstood. :/

I dont see it as being gravity fed, since the the pump pulls directly from the tank first.

If the pump doesn't pull from the tank directly, the system just flat out doesn't work well @ all. It will act like a big body of water that barely moves, (yes.. I've done that too)

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Sure if you disconnect the hose connecting the tank to the pump water will come out because the car has a raked stance. But by no means does the tank feed the pump, the pump pulls from the tank.

 

How does having to push the coolant through another 15 feet of hose not add extra strain to the system? Just curious.

29* above ambient during cruise seems really high...... I ran a 3.0 pulley with no A/C and saw ambient +-5 degrees when cruising, and I lost weight, didnt gain it. Just saying Carry on.

 

The water isn't thickening, and the inside hose diameter has not changed.
So long as you don't have major kinks, and or air in the system. Your pump will be just fine, your still flowing the same amount of water per a given moment thru the pump as you were with or without the tank.

As always there will be people who are skeptical, and those who aren't. Euthanasia is bringing what works for other cars into our nitch. It's your choice from there. I'm merely a tester for a lot of his custom items.

As for temps. The lowest I've seen iat2 above ambient was 18* on a 3.0", and that was in high 30* low 40* weather. Unfortunately socal isn't blessed w/ sub 30* temps
The test done w/ this tank are on a 2.7 pulley.

Maven I think my little comparison of this tank properly plumbed vs a larger pulley on meth in colder weather to add, speaks for itself.

 

steve, your out of your element..and arguing with one of the most knowledgeable people on this forum (who happens to be completely correct).

To set this up as a physics problem, lets look at it this way. the hose is 3/4" inside diameter, meaning a .44" circumference. Now, say the hose makes X amount of resistance per square inch of surface area. That means that every inch, you add .44X friction. Say the stock system has 10 ft of tubing. That means .44X x 120" = 53X resistance of friction total. Now this new trunk mount requires about 20ft more tubing (10 each way). You now have 159X total units of friction.

The pump, being centrifugal, is now not only flowing a lower volume of liquid, but it is fighting a much larger amount of resistant forces, straining it more, so to summarize, This setup causes the pump to flow less and work harder, but it staves off heat soak my a large margin.
I'm just gonna say what I said last time we discussed this. I really think you should run a second pump (probably in series for ease of mounting) in the trunk to reduce the strain, or see if you can run them in parallel to gain velocity, though that will still have 2 heavily strained pumps.

oh, and you should be happy we dont see sub-30° temps...you and I run straight water.

 

I'm no longer arguing this point.

The tank works, I'm glad I own this product, and I hope many of you will follow.

Theres always alternative fluids to use for sub 30* temps
Wouldnt it be cool if we saw sub 30* tho...

 

Exactly the point that I was trying to convey... thank you Hunter.

 

Bump

Still looking for a cobra h.e.; anyone selling one?