let me intorduce my self first, my name is johnny murdock, i own a chassis shop in st. louis, mo(ZERO MOTORSPORTS), i am looking ot put one of these motors in a midget. naturally asperated, mechanical fuel injection, dry sump, what kind of hp can i get, and what block/ motor do i need to keep my eye out for as a base for my project?

johnny

johnny.murdock@yahoo.com

 

naturally? lol.

im confused by ur question. u wanna put what motor in a midget? n then u ask what kind of block n motor u need for ur project? im lost.

 

depends on what your class limits are actually. head work? cams? bore limit? stroke limit?

 

GM is working with a race series out of tulsa ,ok-ACSC. i was told they are going to use the ecotec motor out of something like a cobalt, i know nothing about this motor, just doing some research. i think there target HP is 280HP. also i cant spell to save my life

 

the power of google rocks

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer...nce-build-book

 

thank you, that is what i was looking for, says 340 on alky, not bad

 

whats the diff in these 3 blocks,L61(2.2), LE5(2.4),LSJ(2.0)?
bore? sleves? sleve bores?, bottom end?

 

ummm, im trying to find this site... it showed everything.

from what i can remember, i know that the 2.0 has a mid compression rate. i believe a 9.5-1? n i thought the 2.2/2,4 had a 10-1? im not sure. lemme find it. i know the crank is rated for 600hp.

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/

here is any information u need. u can download a build book for diff types of hp, with all different ecotec engines, L61, LE5, and LSJ.

 

2.2l L61
86mm bore
9Xmm (95?) stroke
10.0:1 compression ratio
no forged goodies

2.0l LSJ
86mm bore
86mm stroke
9.5:1 compression ratio
forged rods, cast pistons (slightly different cam profile compared to the L61

2.4l LE5
88mm bore
98mm stroke
10.4:1 compression ratio
also forged rods (i believe)
has Variable Valve Timing (VVT), so a better head

2.2l is the base, 2.4l is the step up for naturally aspirated ecotecs, and the 2.0l when running the supercharger is the top dog as far as cobalts go. Im sure you can find a lot of useful information on wikipedia as far as all the ecotec variants...there have been many over the years

 

I'd say run the 2.4L block with forged internals, and 2.0L head (massively ported, with retarded cams). You should be golden, 2.4L motor for more power (because contrary to popular belief there really is no replacement for displacement), 2.0L head which should flow really good, and forged innards to hold up to racing abuse. If you run methanol you could probably run 15:1 compression with no problems.

 

id say keep the 2.4 head...use the VVT to your advantage, and just port it out to 2.0l standards (and then some)

 

i would just like to say thanks for all thos who have replied with info. I will start working on this project next week, im still tring to get a long block to my shop so i can make a dry sump oil pan and figure out how i want to drive the dry sump pump and fuel pump. i will post pics as i go.

 

ok, i got one a 2.2 ecotec motor in the shop and on a stand. i realy like what i see., i am going to wet sump this motor, and start by building a custom aluminum oil pan. the motor we be rear wheel drive and laid over to the left at 45 degrees, pics to come


Questions

1. on the back of the head there is what looks like a block off plate, with a steel gasket/ diafram, what is is for

2. how much oil pressure does the stock oil pump in the front cover make?

 

Since you are replacing the oil pan, I thought I would bring up the fact that the oil pan on all of the Ecotec variants is referred to by GM as "structural"--they say it contributes to the engine's structure itself. Don't know if you'd need to take this into account when building your own oil pan (not an expert myself), but wanted to make sure if that was important that it wasn't overlooked.

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/general-cobalt-68/info-all-balts-engine-internals-tranny-118908/

differences between models