that makes sense i suppose...i was thinking that the 425 figure given was already at the crank...so i guess its all good then...at any rate, assuming your bhp will remain below 450, i think you'd be fine with the stock crank

as far as the balance shafts go...heres the pair i was looking at about a month ago
http://www.smgmotoring.com/products/5/4

 

Blackyk:

i want the 8k because...well wtf not

Sunfirejoe:

yeah JBP is expensive as hell, I don't plan on buying from them. Whats the diff between a neutral balance and a balance delete? I haven't seen a delete kit. With the neutral balance it's just R&R.

Huntkiller:

I'm thinkin Bates because they are cheaper and plenty good for the power I want. Bates is what GM went with in their 600hp build. I've never heard of SMG, do you have a link?

 

player_1 had his Bates springs give out on him and he has since switched to Ferrea and had to replace a valve or two. Bates "supposedly" fixed the problem but do you want to take the chance?
As far as the driveshafts go, it was mentioned yesterday (I also checked) the UltraRev has the same shafts for $80. less than Intense.

 

neutral balance shafts are severely reduced in weight and wont have any problems with the water pump that are sometimes associated with balance shaft deletes....however the delete will have even less weight (and in turn more vibrations)

theres a link in my previous post to SMG for the balance shafts, but they also sell the ferrea valve kits too

 

thanks, that's not a bad price for that ferrea kit. I'm changing my list. Are those 2.2 neutral balance shafts the same for the 2.0?

 

Yeah, I know someone else with a bad experience with Bates as well. I want to say Halfcent but don't hold me to that. I hate that GM recommends them in the GM book cause everyone looks to go to them.

 

im not positive but i think so...you can send em an email about it...they had a few hour turnaround for a response when i was talkin to em....

 

The crank is good for 600 WITH neutral balance shafts. Without them, I wouldn't trust is past 375-400.

 

You should still make sure that the suspension and structure of the vehicle where the mounts and everything bolt to can handle it.

I have seen Mustangs where the person puts in another 100 or so horsepower and the rear axle/differential rip the trailing arm mounts right out of the body of the car.

 

Definately plan on susp. as well. right now I have sportlines and plan on getting the sway bar set and tokico's gas shocks this summer when they come out. It sounds like you're not talkin about the handle portion, but more of strength and I don't know what really would need to be upgraded.

 

I talked to my mechanic friend that's doing the build with me today and he said the same thing that you guys have said about the pistons, so that idea is changing to 10.0:1. He also said that GM has a new performance part book coming out this Jan and he thinks it will have more cobalt/ecotec stuff in it.

 

HEY ALL, I just wanted to say thanks for all the inputs and help so far. I've changed from 10.5:1 to 10.0:1 pistons, Bates to Ferrea valve spring kit, same axles for $80 cheaper from UltraRev and discovered SMGmotoring.com. If any of you are going to be around OKC, hit me up and we can grab a beer on you.

 

Sounds like you have a good plan for you build. Good luck with it and keep us posted. Oh, and on the grabbing a beer, you should be the one buying the beer cheapo!

 

agreed on the susp upgrades...bdwarr broke his engine mounts after he "finished" his build...lol

 

I plan on getting all the billet mounts from ZZP and I have the susp package from intense. I was jokin on the beer, it's on me, but after this build it's going to have to be PBR.

 

Good luck

 

I like the idea of this setup...but I think your stock M62 will throw a fit @ 8k. Personally, I think new cams, valve springs and retainers kit, and upgraded pistons and rods will be the only necessary upgrades for 350+ hp. The rest is in a very conservative, professional, and tweaked tune. Save your money on unnecessary upgrades. Give respect to the already perfect engine that GM has given you and try your hardest to leave as much stock as possible. Tuning decides reliability--> Not overly expensive components. I'd try using a GT28RS turbo setup...which could be had for around $2.5k, if you find those good hole in the wall shops that can offer parts for little or nothing. That would actually be right at $4k I think, after buying the kit and the pistons, rods, and valvetrain parts. Boost right at 15psi..and your set. Use HPTuners. 350whp...low 12 sec Balt...whatever you want to call it. Done.

 

With a 3" pulley at 8k for a sec, should be fine. I think it's about 17.5k rpms. I don't want to "waist" money on stuff I don't need, but on the other hand, I don't want to be pushing the limits of stuff and take the chance of anything going out on me and I only plan on taking the engine out once. I plan on keeping it s/c only for a bit and see what i dyno and if I feel i need more power then i'll look into the twincharge setup. thanks for your inputs.

 

I had no intention of flaming you for the original idea's you've had. But personally, I think pistons and rods will do for 400hp--reliably. However, if you raise the rev limit that much, I also feel like valvetrain could do you some good, too. Best of luck.

 

That's why I'm getting the Ferrea valve kit

 

man i wish everyone would stop trying to rev the **** out of these engines and focus on making more power in a reasonable limit. once i crank the boost up to 27-28 psi the rev limiter is going right back down to 6500rpm or maybe lower. high compression and high boost on crazy rpm levels isn't the smartest thing to do unless you have alot of extra money sitting around and an extra car to drive while this one is awaiting engine repairs 10 out of 12 months each year.

i'm sure after a dozen people start throwing rods and getting spun bearings they'll take a step back and realize just because the engine is capable of revving high, doesn't mean it's ok to do it to a daily driver.

 

I agree.

I mean, you can make PLENTY of power with a 6500 RPM redline. If you know what you're doing and with forced induction, it's not necessary. Sure, you can gain power but it's just more stress with faster rotation speeds, more heat generating and more to worry about breaking.

but i mean, it's his car though. This is just my opinion.

 

thats why im goign with a 2.4L block set-up, im gonna make more power down low, so i dont have to worry about high rpms, its where things can go lean with just bad calculation way to easy, and plus why do we need you the motor revolute 8000 times in one minute think about how your cylinders and oil, and heat start to act, i jsut gringe, mna some of the motors i work on make 1800 hp at 900 rpm
yep i said 900 rpms and 1800 hp

 

We've discussed this before:

http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1048

 

well i wonder if a 2.4 crank would fit a 2.0L block, hmmm something i might have to look into, but i dont think they have a forged crank