Oh, and I finally got offical cam specs if someone wants to know:
Number of bearings: 6
Bearing diameter (mm): 26.935-26.960
End float(w/o camshaft sprocet)(mm): .11-.184
End float(w/ camshaft sprocket fitted)(mm): .104-.177

cam lift(mm): 9.70
Exhaust lift(mm): 9.90

B207 E/L:
cam lift, intake (mm): 5.75528
cam lift, exhaust (mm): 5.87187

Inlet valves:
opening: 10 degrees BTDC
closing: 40 degrees ABDC

Exhaust valves:
opening: 34 degrees BBDC
closing:16 degrees ATDC

B207 R:
cam lift, intake (mm): 5.75544
cam lift, exhaust (mm): 5.87203


Inlet valves:
opening: 14 degrees BTDC
closing: 41 degrees ABDC


Exhaust valves:
opening: 47 degrees BBDC
closing:13 degrees ATDC

B207 E/L: Total valve opening duration intake and exhaust: 230 degrees
B207 R: Total valve opening duration intake: Intake: 235 degrees, Exhaust: 240 degrees


Anyone wanna tell us what all this should do for a supercharged application?? Seems like less lift, but way more duration.

 

It would be nice if the duration helps with my bit of turbo lag.

 

Being they are turbo cams they defiantly will help if you we're running on the stock LSJ cams while turbo'd.

 

Do you have this info for the LSJ head?

 

Just a heads up I tore my engine down yesterday and my pistons and cylinder walls are in amazing shape. Its just the valves are burnt. I think as easy as the teardown in the car was in my driveway I am going to build build build. Already called up Diamon pistons in MI and ordered a set of forged pistons and getting a ported used head.

 

Information for the stock LSJ cams is easily found on the ZZP website regarding their stage cams.



*UPDATE*
So tried to do a re-learn with HPTuners. FAILED.....Dang

Then my tuner thought why not try a re-learn using his shops Snap-On MODIS.....
WORKED!!!! Driven about 70 miles and restarted about 9times.

Starts on first or second turn. Did have it take 20cranks just this last start up, but then I shut it off and it fired right up WTF O.o These spark plugs are probably heavily fouled from sometimes having to crank 30+ times until it would restart.... So I'm replacing them spark plugs tonight to some BKR7E, which is one step colder. I had ran these before. I has last attempted to go to stock heat range to help with start-ups. Lol it didn't.

Also since getting this re-learn in, I've noticed far better throttle response and smoother shifting transitions. The car would spike learn on shift as if I was downshifting, now it doesn't think I'm downshifting and just holds fuel AFRs at 1.0 lambda.

Now I randomly have the Catalytic Below Efficiency code coming on. Funny because I've been cat-less for about 3months now. BAHAHAHAHAH. Will have to tune it out on HPT.


Parts Soon:
Ported TB and Ported Intake Mani are on their way to my doorstep

 

Nice, congrats!

 

E85 on cold morning FTL. LOLZ. Still starts-up just wants to die. Gotta hold rpms around 1.5-2k for about 30-40 seconds then it's fine. Doesn't actually die, just bogs down. Sounds like its cammed. I'll have to grab a video one day.

 

bratboy, do you know which [PN#] Saab intake mainfold works with the LE5 Throttle Body, I want to experiment with a different larger TB on my LNF..

 

From what I understand its the Manifold off the B207R. Check out Saab Central forums for sale section. Can probably get one cheap

 

thank for the info..

searched many Saab forums within the last 3 hours found only 1 site..

Car-part.com

 

*UPDATE*
1. So we've nearly fixed start up issues. The car requires a custom made start-up based on coolant temps. Like very strict...It's a lot better now. It used to take 20+ cranks sometimes to get it to start once warm.

Now it's like 3 max. As are cold starts. Much better. E85 being E85 I'd say at this point.

2. Second issue was sometimes on a wot pull the car would completely shut down for no reason....Reason why.. Well we noticed it only did it on logs in which I bouced limiter and let off quickly. So we're assuming that since all that fuel is in the car and no air, and since the cam/crank position can't be perfected that's how it's going to be. So tip....Shift at 6,500rpm. Which is fine as a M62 stops making power at that point anyways...LOL

The swap is proving to cause some weird issues, but nothing that makes it not worth saving over $1,000!!!

Video of a restart!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dE_QL7qKyp0

 

good stuff man glad this worked out for u!

 

Lol me too. I just ran a 13.866 @ 104Mph. Having issues with my MAF sensor... Had to shift at 6,500. damn good time considering that and 50% humidity with 50degree outside temps.

Posting video to Drag Racing Threads now.


HERE:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/drag...1/#post6749110

 

*Update*

I've swapped a LSJ head on with LSJ cams and it's tuned now. Not perfect yet, but a header/dp leak is killing me.

Runs great. Starts on first fire up.

I think the main issue was the Saab cams. The hex for the CPS(Cam Position Sensor) is not alignment properly like a LSJ's is as the Saab one is used as a Vaccum for OEM and LSJ is for the delicacy of timing. Once the LSJ cams were in their were no more CPS issues at all and the car runs perfect.

 

Told you the Saab hex was probably off...

Glad you solved everything now. ;-)

 

Sooooo - If I want to use a Saab engine simply as a longblock donor - no performance mods, simple replacement for my LSJ that ate a ring - I could swap in my LSJ cams, sensors, flywheel, exhaust manifold, SC, belt drive components and be in business. As this will be the same electronic components that came out of the car, will it have to be re-learned? I would think this would be the same as putting the original engine back in. Appreciate all the work you have done, agree parts are on the high side for LSJ motors, especially if you are just replacing stock.

 

Yep, although if youre doing a build, I was told by ZZP that the Gen III block is what you want, and much stronger, but a lot more expensive than a used Saab block (probably because our motor builds to the cobalt crowds is probably 1/10 lol). It would be the same case with us Saab guys as everything else would bolt right back up.

you can probably find a used Saab engine in good shape for 800 or so, just block prob 400 or less

 

but other than that, our prices for other parts is downright retarded. And there is a monopoly for performance vendors and parts because of such a small market. That's why several guys have ditched the DMFW and converted to a Cobalt clutch with a lightweight flywheel

 

Old thread bump, what dud you guys use to plug the oil drain pipe hole on the lk9 block?

 

Man can I get your # I've done some crazy **** to my car and your probably the only guy that can help me rn so do you got a number bro

 

Used many Saab blocks and cranks. Same as LSJ except they have the LNF oil return for the turbo
Gen 3 Saabs are expensive since they are the same as the Buick Regal turbo

 

Wow. Been a long while now. Still running this block on an LSJ head now. No issues to speak of actually. Was very reliable on my M62 with a 2.65 pulley on E85 and water/meth injection preblower. Car sure did get down, but I was always wanting a little more. So last winter I was waiting for a good price on a TVS 1320 to pop up. I had a deal lined up and the buy backed out... So since I had cash ready to go I started piecing together a turbo setup. I kept the stock intake manifold for an LSJ and and running an S252et around 19psi on e85 with water/meth injection still.

Here's a video of a roll race at the track:
https://youtu.be/3T99qJhO8qw

Here's a picture of the setup. Sorry shitty quality.
https://i.imgur.com/hHDQWcR.jpg

 

Lsj head will bolt right up to the saab long block, i did the swap with no issue

 

Bratboy Thanks for all your help on my swap