After months of feathering the gas and not boosting due to oil spraying out of the dip stick if driven incorrectly. I had 100 or less psi in every cylinder when the compression test was done. So I finally gathered all my parts to do the build so I put her down about a month ago and finished last night.

I have over 700 pictures of the whole build this is only a few. I will try to sift through pictures that may be beneficial and post them.



I kind of went the long way and took things that really didnt need to come off until after the motor was out.







Clutch was miles away from the rivits holding it in. (On the other side of the disc)









Ok.. That was a breif overview of the pulling apart but alot of the pictures taken were making sure I knew what bolt or connector went where.

Custom ground Comp cams and Supertech 78# valve springs



Diamond 9.5:1 Pistons, total seal rings, pauter forged rods



Darton Sleeves installed by RWR



Cometic Head Gasket



ARP Head Studs



Spec Stage 3+ Clutch



LS4 TB



About to go back in





BAck Together



Empty shelves other than the headlight, thats a good sign.. Oh and no extra bolts





Mileage Noted!



So last night I finished putting everything back on exept the headlight. Bled the clutch, filled the oil, filled the coolants, and was ready to start.

I changed the tune up the idle a little while I look for leaks and other odd sounds. So I was all excited put the key in the ignition, put it in the on position, heard the intercooler pump cycle (good sign), turn the key the last bit and.............. nothing.

Car would not even turn over.. It was 1am last night and I was tired and now grumpy. I searched for jumper cables but remembered my fiance has them in her car.

So I will figure it out today. It can be only a couple things like the starter, possilby clutch switch, dead battery... I will keep you posted on the progress tonight.

 

very nice chris!

 

make sure you have all your grounds and starter cables connected correctly

 

Thanks.

Yah I will again. I didnt have the energy last night. Plus I went through all my pictures and everything looked correct. We'll see. I hope its just a fuse or something.

 

Any idea why it blew up? Bad tune?

 

clogged meth nozzle

 

Exactly. I gased it to go around someone and felt a skip I got out of boost and drove normal till I got to work. Looked under the hood and oil everywhere.

 

did you put the engine back together or did you have a machine shop put it back together, pistons, rod bearings.... all that

 

My father and I did. He has been building/restoring muscle cars since he was 18.

So it was a fuse. It turns over but still doesnt start.. I smell fuel.. I dont hear my valves slamming the pistons so thats a good sign. I can hear my TB cycling. I am going to pull the plugs and see what is happening. Maybe no spark.. Can the cam position sensor not allow it to start?

 

no it will start if the cam sensor isn't in the right spot, check your coils and make sure everything is plugged in the right spot

 

They basically can only go in one spot. I re gapped the plugs due to terrible gap and they it still wont start. I smell fuel on the plugs. I got cams is there something special I should do with the tune i.e. timing or something?

Does the crank angle sensor have a pig tail off it then it hooks to the main harness?

 

Actually they can go into more than one spot, the coils can plug into the maf sensor harness

 

Well I hooked up the MAF too. I dont think the one harness I have to the coils would reach to the MAF... Uhg. Frustrating, anything that went wrong did so far. lol

 

Yes. It has a small, two-wire intermediate harness.

If it's bad, the car will only auto-crank for about 2 seconds, then stop.

I didn't get any codes when mine quit, car just shut down and wouldn't restart. I replaced the sensor and all was well for a year after that, never had another startup problem.

 

Ok so try to auto crank it? But it'll still crank if I hold the key?

 

I believe so.

If that sensor quits, the PCM thinks the engine isn't turning, so it stops trying to crank the car. It also won't fire the coil packs without a crank signal, so no starting at all. My car just shut off while driving. Happened about twice before, each time it would re-start about 5-10 minutes later. Last time, car was dead in the water, had to have it towed home. Got the sensor next day, installed that night.

 

http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p...=AutoCrank.flv

Ok well I just did it. Check it out and thanks for helping me out I appreciate it.

 

Sounds about right. I was told you can test the output from the sensor, but don't recall the procedure. I was able to get one locally same-day from a Saab dealer an it was under $40, so I replaced it.

 

hmmmm. ok. Well I guess I will try that. That blows. What did you have to pull off? The blower?

I just checked too and it cant share it. MAF is one row of connectors and the coils are 2... I wish that was it.

 

oh, its was injector harness and maf, the coils match the connector that is pinned to the firewall next to the brake fluid reservoir

 

Nothing, can reach it from on top or the bottom if needed.

DON'T DROP THE BOLT, IT WILL FALL BEHIND THE STARTER AND GET STUCK. Learned that one the hard way.

You can reach down and get a socket on the hold-down bolt without taking anything out of the way, sensor pulls straight out (takes a little effort). Install new one carefully, don't bang it around or anything, keep it clean, etc. Be careful with that bolt.

 

Yah I did mix those first but found out before I started.

So I just pulled the coil pack. Put a screw driver to it and saw spark...

lol that sounds terrible.

Can it be timing?

here is the chain.





God I hope its not timing...

 

Looks perfect to me.

Timing, you'd be getting a backfire or something if there's fuel and spark coming.

 

Well I smelled fuel on the plus and checked the spark and it was sparking.. I dont get it.

 

Coil pack/injector sub-harnesses, going to the right cyls, right?