Yes. I mean, it would be hard to get them incorrect. What gap should it be? could the timing in the tune be off for start up since i have aftermarket cams? Just throwing stuff out there.

 

bump

 

I can't see the pics here at work, but did you pull the crank out of the block at all? If you did, you will need to do a case relearn before she'll start.

 

Can I do that threw hpt Scanner under special? I just looked at it dont know if that is it.

 

eh, just did some quick research, looks like I'm wrong. Your car should still start.

You did plug the the crankshaft position sensor back in right? It' located right behind the starter and screws into the block.

 

Yes I did plug it in. I checked all the connections again last night but one could be easily missed. The crank sensor looked like it had a pigtail connector then it connect to the main harness? Damn I was getting all excited that it could have been the relearn and now I am back to square one.

 

there are 2 different pig tails that will connect to the crank sensor harness, make sure you got the right one plugged in.

PM me your phone number, I'll call you in a couple hours when I get home from work and try to help you.

 

I am going to look at my pictures and see if I got it hooked up right. I would feel stupid that I did but if it fixes it that would be great!

And of course I just checked the pictures adn that is the one picture I guess I felt like skipping in the process. So it is a better possibility that I hooked it up wrong. Fingers crossed until I get home. If anyone else has suggestions let me know! Thanks for all that has helped so far!

Just in case the crank sensor is bad I bought a new one. A local dealer has one and I am picking it up at lunch. It was only 24 dollars so if I dont use it I will just return it.

 

did you seperate the two fuse panel halves? sometimes it feels like there back together and your "stripping" the screws that hold the two halves together, but they just take a while to clamp down all the way and get tight.


That was my prob.

There is a possibility its the cams, since there regrinds are you sure you dont have the int and the exh switched?

have you tried a cranking comp test to verify comp? remember you need fuel air and spark but without comp it wont start either.

If the cams are off it could be holding the valves open.

just throwing stuff out there at this point.

oh, i see you found the sensor was bad.

 

I did seperate them but they all got tight and no codes, I had a fuel relay but thats cuz I didnt insert it yet.

They are labeled exh and int on them I triple checked them. If I cant figure it then I will pull the cover and check. Dont you think I would be smashing valves if that was the case?

Compression test is a good idea! I will check it when I get home.

Thanks for this. Everything helps!

I dont "think" the sensor is bad. I just got a new one just in case I exhausted all my resources I have one on hand to try it.



Here is the only close up picture of the cams that show the etching from comp. I think it says INT on the right...

 

If you don't mind sharing, what are your specs on those cams. PM me if you don't want to share.

 

I will try to dig them up for you.

So I was reading thru Area's build thread.. And what problem did he have?

I really hope that is not the case for my car! He said the combustion burns are evident but when I looked in when gapping I didnt see burns. Maybe I will bust the borescope out.

 

great engine build man. can't wait for some numbers

 

Yah IDK if I am going to get numbers before I twincharge it. Have not decided just yet. But thanks! Now I just have to get it started.

 

Maybe a cam sensor issue, due to the cams (maybe the hex insert is wrong ?)

 

Everybody is saying that it will still start with it out of line. It will just start after a few cranks.

 

yep, it would still start.

the timing would have to be way way way off to touch piston and valves. the valve relief cut-out in the diamond plus there pretty far up in the head. but it IS a interference motor.


i dont think your head is warped i have had mine re-surfaced twice now and both times they said it checked out fine. i just like to be sure and i dont mind bumping my comp a little either.

youve got fuel, you said it was sparking, as long as their is not air restrictions in the int or exh, then your down to timing and compression at this point.

compression is more simple to check of the two so i would start there and move on to timing if comp checks out fine.

the rings arent broke in so comp will be low around 120+ anything over 100psi and its enough to start and run fine.

 

I will do a comp. test to see what I am at.

Since I have spark and fuel does that mean it cant be the crank sensor hooked up wrong or its bad?

If all checks out what should I do about the timing? How do I figure out where its off? I dont see how timing is off. I mean I got the colored links in the correct spots on the crank and cam gears.

Update: Compression test results

#1 - 130
#2 - 130
#3 - 125
#4 - 125

 

spark fuel and air.... somethings not getting something it needs

you said you have two of the three

 

if the timing was off how would he build any compression? Two of the 4 valves would be open on the power stroke right? He has air spark and fuel I'm stumped

 

Ralli: I just checked out the crank sensor and it has a 2 wire connector to it. Pic will be up in a minute. Same two colors too purple and yellow.




My buddy with the EVO said he had his timing messed by 90 degrees and he still gained compression...

 

it would at least back fire with that much compression even if the timing was off I would think

 

Thats what another person said.. So back to the drawing board.........

Fuel, Do I have too much?

Air, Do I have too little?

Spark, Is it advanced/retard enough?

Wouldnt I throw a code if the wrong sensor was hooked to the wrong harness or not even hooked up at all?

Just thinking out loud.

 

are those compression numbers low?

 

rings aren't seated in yet, those numbers are fine